Bridge

[LowGapBG]

What would be a good bridge to put on a Kentucky KM-150? http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/mandosmiley.gif

[LowGapBG]

25 veiws and no responce?Come on guys help me out:D

[Bill Snyder]

Why do you want to change it?
Do not take this wrong but there have been numerous threads on bridges in the Builder/Repair section. To summerize the recommendations usually got around to a bridge from Cumberland Acoustics by Steve Smith.
Another option is to buy or build a fixed height bridge such as the one from
Red Henry (http://www.murphymethod.com/redbridge.html) or one from Steve Tourtellotte. (http://www.mandolinbridge.com/bridges.htm)

[12 fret]

Have you investigated getting the one you have fitted to the top by a pro. I had that done on my 380S and it made a pronouced difference

[Doug Edwards]

A nicely fitted bridge does make a big difference. The KM250S we hot rodded sounded much better after I re-fitted the bridge. Even better when I put on the CA ebony bridge. I had simular results with the MM50 when I changed out to a Sullivan ebony bridge. Maybe those import rosewood bridges are not dense enough?

Here's the Kentucky we worked with.

http://www.ntbbluegrass.com/kentucky250S.html

[CosmicHillBilly]

From where you are located, its a short drive to Galax. Take your mando to Barrs Fiddle shop. They are nice folks and will be glad to help you.

[JHo]

I'm very happy with my Brekke bridge, which I had fitted to replace the stock Loar style bridge on my Eastman. By design it takes the metal thumb screws out of the picture, so the string vibration travels through the wood of the bridge right to the wood of the top, as opposed to having to travel through the wood of the saddle, the metal of the thumb screws, the wood of the base and then the wood of the top. My mando sounds much woodier with the Brekke. The same would go for any fixed height bridge I suppose, but I'm a fan of being able to make little adjustments personally. I do live in Chicago though, where the climate varies greatly between seasons and even day to day, so I guess if you live somewhere that has fairly consistent weather year round, you could probably get away with having a fixed height bridge.

[Dan Voight]

Don't get a maple bridge. Just get an adjustable bridge made of high qualtiy ebony.

[earthsave]

Unless the one you got is broke or badly bent, why change it?

If you dont have one for it, I'd recommend any standard adjustable bridge. Have someone fit it to your top as mentioned above.

Frets.com I thought had directions on sanding/fitting the bridge foot, but it looked too much for my lacking skills.

[Steevarino]

I'd like to thank those of you that mentioned my (Cumberland Acoustic) mandolin bridges. #They are indeed ebony, adjustable, Loar replica bridges. #I can't tell you how many of these bridges I have installed on Kentucky, Johnson, Morgan Monroe, Eastman, and other Pac Rim mandolins. #I can say, from personal experience, that it is pretty much always a good idea to perform this upgrade. A high quality bridge can make an inexpensive mandolin sound (and play and intonate) better. #Of course, a quality installation and set-up needs to be part of the package.

But, here's why I posted... Contact info on the website... #http://www.CumberlandAcoustic.com

Thanks again,

Steve Smith

[LowGapBG]

so the one Cumberland Acoustic has will work on a KM-150?

[jk245]

Unless is is broken,
or the bottom is not set correctly on the top of the mando body,
or the height and intonation is not set correctly
there should be NO reason to replace the original bridge.

http://www.johnsongtr.com/uploads/media/Mandolin_Bridge_Set_Up.pdf

http://www.gibson.com/magazines/amplifier/1998/6/tipsheet.html

http://www.gibson.com/Product....et%20Up (http://www.gibson.com/Products/Places/Repair/Tech%20Tips/Mandolin%20Set%20Up/)

http://folkofthewood.com/page2449.htm

[Bill Snyder]

so the one Cumberland Acoustic has will work on a KM-150?
Unless your neck angle is really screwed up or some other problems are present with your mandolin MOST of the adjustable mandolin bridges should work.
I mentioned the Cumberland Acoustic bridge because it seems to be a very popular replacement (and I believe for some original equipment) bridge which I assume is because of good materials and workmanship.
In case you had not picked up on it from some of the previous posts fitting it to the top properly is very important no matter what type of bridge you get.

[Steevarino]

I guess I'd have to disagree with this statement from above...

------------

Unless is is broken,
or the bottom is not set correctly on the top of the mando body,
or the height and intonation is not set correctly
there should be NO reason to replace the original bridge.

----------

It has been my experience that less expensive mandolins use lower quality bridges. #I don't think this is news to anyone. #It is part of keeping the initial cost of the instrument down. #I have replaced many bridges that were black, but were not ebony. #Some were not even rosewood. #

If you can indent the wood with your thumbnail, it is not a good sign. #There is also some pretty crummy ebony out there. #My theory is that a more dense, harder ebony will help transmit the string vibrations to the top with less interference as these vibrations pass through the bridge. #This is no place for pithy, punky wood, even if it has been dyed black, or cost the manufacturer less money.

The other (and equally important) thing to consider is if the correct compensation has been cut into the mandolin bridge saddle. #I have a Kentucky KM-1000 on my workbench right now. #I was reluctant to replace the bridge, as the one on it looked pretty good. #However, when I checked the intonation with a strobe scope, it was off. #So, I put one of my bridges on it this morning, and the intonation problem disappeared. #I think it sounds better too. #

Of course, your milage may vary, but these have been my observations over the past several years (and still learning)!

And yes, one of these bridges would work well on any Kentucky mandolin! #I put them on Kentucky's all the time. #It won't make it a Loar, but it certainly can't hurt.

Steve Smith
www.CumberlandAcoustic.com

[Martin Jonas]

It has been my experience that less expensive mandolins use lower quality bridges. I don't think this is news to anyone. It is part of keeping the initial cost of the instrument down. I have replaced many bridges that were black, but were not ebony. Some were not even rosewood.
That's also my experience. I've changed the bridge on my 1989 Washburn M3SW from the black-stained original to one of Steve's wonderful bridges. Much better tone: clear and bell-like where it was muddy before. I highly recommend this upgrade, which really is not particularly expensive, especially if you can do the bridge-fitting yourself.

Martin

[Stephen Perry]

I'll agree on the cheap bridges, too. Even the mandolins sporting middling bridges do better with better ones. Not hard to make fixed height ones, either. I'd like to do one out of Brazilian rosewood sometime. I've got gobs of Brazilian!
Fit, adjustment, etc. are all super important.

[earthsave]

I cannot see how putting a $40 bridge on a $200 instrument, will make it sound much better, unless the bridge on it is damaged or setup incorrectly. I bought my nephew a KM150S several years ago and the bridge on it was fine.

Getting it fit and set properly seems like it would be more important.

[fstylemb1]

I agree with Steevarino. A good quality ebony bridge does wonders for a mandolin. we upgrade bridges for customers all the time, mostly imports. Bottomline is though, if your current bridge is set fine and you are pleased with the tone, stay with it. If you are looking for better tone and volume then upgrade. I usually recommend the FQMS or Cumberland Acoustics Loar style bridges. You will notice a difference.

[allenhopkins]

This is no place for pithy, punky wood.
Makes for a pith-poor sound, eh Steve?

[Stephen Perry]

I cannot see how putting a $40 bridge on a $200 instrument, will make it sound much better, unless the bridge on it is damaged or setup incorrectly. I bought my nephew a KM150S several years ago and the bridge on it was fine.

Getting it fit and set properly seems like it would be more important.
Not a "seeing" thing, just a hearing thing. Soft wood, poor fit of saddle to posts, hurt sound transmission.

[Steevarino]

Yeth Allen Hopkinth,

Pith-Poor Sound, or would that be Pith-Poor Thound...?

I stick with what I said above, but I also agree with those who think their current bridge is fine. #If it is OK with the guy using it, why change it? #Not hard to check that intonation, though. #Just do the open string / 12th fret routine. #A tuner will show you if you can get all 4 strings right. #If you listen close, your ear can tell you too. #

I do get mandolins in the shop from time to time that don't really need a new bridge, even thought that is what they were brought in for. #I will tell the customer this. #Sometimes they go away happy with the mandolin the way it was, and sometimes they have me put a new one on anyway.

Peath and Happineth...

Steve Smith
(Thteve Thmith)

www.CumberlandAcoustic.com

[earthsave]

I cannot see how putting a $40 bridge on a $200 instrument, will make it sound much better, unless the bridge on it is damaged or setup incorrectly. #I bought my nephew a KM150S several years ago and the bridge on it was fine.

Getting it fit and set properly seems like it would be more important.
Not a "seeing" thing, just a hearing thing. #Soft wood, poor fit of saddle to posts, hurt sound transmission.
Agreed.