1920? gibson a-2 on ebay

[Tighthead]

Gibson A-2 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160105121977)


I just won this Gibson A-2 on Ebay, at $876. The owner has pointed out the repair to the headstock, otherwise the body has no cracks or sinkage and the bridge might be original (there's no patent stamp). There's no pickguard and the case is in decent condition.

The owner is leaning towards a serial number of 56788, my guess is that puts it at 1920. Sound right?

Does the lack of a patent stamp rule out an original bridge?

I think I got a wonderful deal. We'll see tomorrow when I pick it up.

Forgive me posting just to talk about a new purchase, but I'm pretty surprised that my bid actually won.

[mythicfish]

I believe one-piece bridges were still the rule for this date ... small beer as long as the replacement is of good quality and properly fitted. If it sounds good, plays good, and is structurally sound ... welcome to "Vintageville".

Curt

[bradeinhorn]

what curt said, plus the wheels look a little large to be orig. otherwise seems pretty clean. let us know how it is.

[f5loar]

Dates to 1919 with that number. The bridge is not original nor is it a Gibson bridge. Otherwise great buy. I always liked those Sheraton Brown A2 models. I would contact seller by phone for tips on how to ship a mandolin. These old original cases are not known for being a tight fit. Rule of thumb in shipping is if it moves inside the case it will move when shipping and this could cause damage. This seller does not seem to be an expert mandolin shipper.

[Paul Hostetter]

I join the chorus in hoping this guy packed it well. I think the bridge may be a real Gibson bridge even though it's not original, but the wheels are certainly wrong. The top looks "backwards," but it's not a big deal. Here's some info on getting the tuners to work well again (http://www.lutherie.net/tuner.maintenance.html), have a look so you can string it up with new strings and get it in tune right away. Looks good so far.

[Loren Bailey]

DANG! You definitely scored on that one. If you want someone to look it over and give it a tune up I'd highly recommend Gail Hester. She recently refretted, renutted and rebridged my old Gibson and did a super job. She really knows her way around these old instruments.

Again, great buy. I like it when someone gets a good deal on the "bay" these days.

Loren

[Tighthead]

I was worried about shipping it, too...turns out we're just over two hours apart so I'll be driving there this afternoon after work to inspect and, if all goes well, purchase it.

I have to admit I took a leap on this, knowing only what I've been able to read here about these vintage Gibsons. In all honesty I put a bid in at a price that's right for me, not really expecting to win it. I guess sometimes a chance works out.

Those look like original tuners to me...does that sound right?

Thanks a lot for checking it out...I'm upgrading from my solid-plywood starter mandolin. Like Curt said, if it sounds and plays good and is structurally sound, I'm happy.

[f5loar]

When did Gibson start making those solid top bridge tops?
I thought a Gibson bridge had the post holes all the way through. Tuners like right to me.

[Jim Garber]

I would think that the price was low due to the low feedback score of the seller, some of the missing or non-original parts (bridge, pickguard) and the "Old repair on headstock (visible flaw does not affect sound or tuning)."

OTOH it does look to be in good shape and you will have a good playing Gibson, let's hope.

I would just check that there isn't any top sinkage, that it plays well up the neck and that the frets are in good shape.

Jim

[Darryl Wolfe]

I agree with Jim on the low feedback. I watched that auction but did not bid for that reason.

On another note: I started to post a picture of the top of that mandolin. It looks like it may be one of those oddly seamed tops we see here and there. It appears to have the center seam an inch or so off-center. It also may be simply a grain line

[Tighthead]

That makes sense. Thinking back on it, I doubt I would have bid if the instrument wasn't just a couple of hours away so I could pay and pick it up in person.

I thought the same thing about the top (actually I thought it might be a separation 'cause I didn't know about off-center seams until just now). But the more I looked at it, I thought maybe it could be a shadow cast by the strings, as it appears paired.

The one surprise I have coming is that the seller tells me that the headstock repair is quite noticeable in person and obviously amateur. I'll take better pics once I have it.

[Paul Hostetter]

Darryl, you're right, a bridge without post holes all the way through wouldn't be a Gibson bridge. I missed that part. I was however looking at some other details which seemed unique to Gibson bridges, like the coving along the base (yellow arrow), the detail of the base edges (magenta arrow) and the compensation (green lines). It's at least a decent bridge, with more torque possibilities on the thumbwheels!

While it may have been an accident in this instance, flipping the bridge end for end means the base can be set closer to the soundhole which help scover the inevitable mess of the factory mis-set bridge whilst getting the compensation adjusted.

http://www.lutherie.net/ebay.A.bridge.jpg

I'll be interested in a report after it's been picked up.

[Tighthead]

You guys are cool, man. I'm sitting here learning all day.

Can you recommend some strings/guages to try?

Thanks again!

[Paul Hostetter]

Start with D'Addario J-74, the industry standard string for that scale. They're the same gauges as what Gibson put on it at the factory lo those many years ago.

[Darryl Wolfe]

That wasn't me Paul. #F5LOAR is someone else who dresses like Merle Travis. # #

I agree with you that the base looks and could be original according to the cove detail and that the top is on backwards. But I, like F5LOAR suspect that it is one of those economy bridges available for the last 20 years. #I seriously doubt the bridge wheels are 5-40 thread which would mean the base has been retapped if original.

[Paul Hostetter]

Drat, f5journl, f5loar. Oy, how can I keep it all straight?

http://www.nndb.com/people/763/000047622/merletravis04.jpg

[DryBones]

is it just me or is that headstock repaired along a seam that goes in line with the tuners?

[cooper4205]

i really like GHS silk & bronze's on my F2, they have the thicker gaugue (.11, .16, .26, .40), but less tension than a light guage string has.

[Paul Hostetter]

Jason - the seller pointed out that repair in the sales pitch. Somewhat common, shouldn't be a problem.

[Tighthead]

I have the mandolin now.

Yep, that repair is the whole way down the headstock, almost right down the centers of the treble-side tuners. It looks uncannily similar to a repair on a 1919 A-2 on Charles Johnson's site. Like an exact duplicate. The unfortunate part about it is whoever did it put a couple extra screws in the tuner plate. It seems strong, albeit ugly. I'm going to see if I can get a pro to take a look at it and see if it can be re-repaired. But there's no hurry on that one.

What a different sound! The seller described the sound as 'hauntingly beautiful' and that's pretty close. It has lots of sustain which adds a kind of droning effect, especially on the open strings--I don't know if that's considered good or bad, but I like it.

I don't have much experience beyond my plywood mandolin, so I'm not sure how to describe the sound. Lots of bass, much louder and clearer. My starter mando sounds like it's muffled somehow by comparison. Actually, there is no comparison.

It's much easier playing than my plywood mando. The frets are small; they seem like mere suggestions of frets. But that seems like it adds to the playability.

There's a slight buzz on the G course at the 8th and 9th fret. I'm thinking a fret dressing or changing the action a little might solve that. New strings go on tomorrow. Otherwise it plays clean all the way up the neck. I'll have to follow the instructions on Paul's site for cleaning and lubricating the tuners for sure. Thanks for providing that link.

I'm really enjoying this mandolin. I had to pull over to the side of the highway to play it some more on the way home.

On the way up, I was thinking that if it didn't overwhelm me, maybe I could eventually trade it for something else. I'm not thinking about that anymore. I pulled out a Dawg pick for a bit and I had it on one leg as I played. I swear I felt the vibration on my other knee. A big, beautiful sound.

Thanks everyone for your interest and your comments. I'll post up some pictures tomorrow.

One question, for now: the tailpiece is quite tarnished...I kind of like the way it looks, but if I wanted to clean it up, any suggestion for products that would be good for doing this?

One happy picker,
Milan

[Darryl Wolfe]

You are hooked..you now know the difference

[markishandsome]

Yeah, welcome to the real world and congrats on your new instrument. Can't wait to see some better quality pictures (hint hint)

[MandoSquirrel]

As the former caretaker of an A2(1915), congratulations, you may never want an F hole again, Mine was an awesome instrument, big gutshaking sound.

[Tighthead]

Thanks, all.

I'm now convinced that the serial number is 56788. Looks like an auspicious number.

Any tips on photographing instruments? I've tried to take a few pictures, but I'm having a hard time getting any that look any good. I have a decent digital, Konica-Minolta Dimage Z6. I have rudimentary photography skills and I can't seem to get the lighting right to avoid a flash glare.

[Loren Bailey]

I like to take my pics outside when the evening sun is low, no flash. I am hardly a pro but you seem to get lots of illumination with little to no shadow. The pics of my old Gibson (Serial # 17685 in the archive) were taken at this time of day without a flash.

Loren

[mandolooter]

[QUOTE]Any tips on photographing instruments? I've tried to take a few pictures, but I'm having a hard time getting any that look any good. I have a decent digital, Konica-Minolta Dimage Z6. I have rudimentary photography skills and I can't seem to get the lighting right to avoid a flash glare.

First off don't use a flash! They make it exceedingly difficult to get a good shot. Find a window in the house with a lot of light coming in (not direct sunlight) and place the mandolin at about a 45 degree angle to it standing up on a chair or something and shoot away. Remember those "great" shots are usually a few out of hundreds of shots. Its digital, so the "film" is paid for...shoot like crazy and you'll get some beauties! Like picks, experimenting with different angles, etc is the key. Hurry, we all wanna see it...lol!

[Andy Morton]

I was also wondering about the removing tarnish from the tailpiece on my 21 A-2, or is it best to leave the accumulated patina??

andy

[Darryl Wolfe]

You can polish it on a cloth wheel or with a rag. Don't use any type of wire wheel or brush. Those tailpieces are solid nickel-silver alloy of some type and will age back

[Paul Hostetter]

I'd recommend either Simichrome or Flitz, whichever you can lay hands on first (they're nrearly identical). I kind of like the patina, but as Darryl says, it will age back.

http://www.vandykes.com/images/products/02335425-lg.jpg http://www.boscovs.com/wcsstore/boscovs/images/store/product/images/513527294bp-03511.jpg

[Tighthead]

Howdy, folks, just wanted to mention that I posted pictures of this mandolin over in the Post a Picture forum.