Bridge and Nut change

[Hubert Angaiak]

What would the advantages be in changing the nut to bone and the bridge to ivory material? To those who have a instruments of equal quality but different bridge and nut material... would you know the tone difference? I am curious because I want to change the nut and bridge on my Martin, but is it worth the effort because this is Martin's low end model and its not going to change a whole lot? Any thoughts?

[Jim Garber]

Even the lowest end Martin was made with the same overall care as the higher ones, just less glitz. it is worth changing the parts to see if it would make a difference. The nut in general would affect mostly the open strings, I would think -- anyone correrct me if I am mistaken.

I think it is worth a shot. But I think the question is what sound(s) are you looking for? Prob a harder material than ebony for the bridge or the nut -- bone or even pearl -- might give you more treble or a more ringing sound. Bear in mind also that different strings give you different sound. Dogal Calaces, for instance, are carbon steel and are sweet on some instruments and harsh (to some ears) on others. Bronze strings give you a different more mellow sound and the flat wounds, like Thomastik, completely different.

Jim

[Bob A]

In my opinion, it's not worth messing with unless the bridge and/or nut are at present defective in some way. As Jim says, Martin didn't make any dogs. Then too, this work, if done right, can cost some money.

My experience is that changing strings and picks is a far easier way to go to change/improve the sound, unless actualy luthiery is called for due to defects or problems.

I have bowlbacks with ebony bridges, ivory bridges, rosewood bridges; and the saddles range from ivory to bone to a chunk of metal sitting in the saddle slot. And you know what? I can't tell how any of it affects the sound. If for some reason you're not satisfied with the instrument, and strings and picks don't do it, you'd be well advised to get a professional setup, which should get the thing in the best possible playing shape. It'll eliminate buzzes, and get the action whereit ought to be, and generally put it in shape for a decade or more of playing.

[PlayerOf8]

I'm with Jim and Bob. If ain't broke, why fit it. I think Martin made great bridges for their mandolins. You'll be hard pressed to find something better.
George

[vkioulaphides]

[QUOTE]"a harder material than ebony for the bridge or the nut -- bone or even pearl -- might give you more treble or a more ringing sound."

True; that is precisely the intention behind those brass nuts and saddles found on some Neapolitans. But also, as per the above posts, all that is part and parcel of the tone the original luthier was striving for. I would not change it if it works.

When I first acquired my de Meglio, it had a MOP saddle. Alex T. alerted me to the fact that it couldn't have been original and that a brass saddle ought to have been there to "complement", as it were, the brass nut. Accordingly, I had a luthier reconstruct the bridge and... TADA!—#the instrument re-acquired the tonal quality intended by its creator in the first place.

In the case of Martins, or for that matter any quality brand, I would not try to hybridize the instrument; I would, instead, try to recapture the tone intended by the builder. I add my $0.02 to the above...

Enjoy the mando!

[Bob A]

You might adopt the Bob solution, and just go ahead and get as many bridge/nut variations as might interest you. Of course, they will already have mandolins attached!

When you finally go broke, we can pick away all day under a bridge together, warming ourselves around a little fire fueled by unrepairable old wall-hangers.

[Hubert Angaiak]

Thank you. I guess that is very good food for thought. I'll find the kind of strings that produce the kind of tone I like. Thanks for all your thoughts. Its a good one.... playing under the bridge.

[Eugene]

Nothing more to add other than another vote for the "ain't broke; don't fix it" camp. If you do decide to experiment, make sure you preserve the original bridge intact in case you decide to come back to it or sell the piece. On George's comment:
I think Martin made great bridges for their mandolins. You'll be hard pressed to find something better.
I agree wholeheartedly. I once had a damaged Martin bridge replaced by a craftsman of excellent reputation. The replacement was not nearly as neatly crafted as the Martin original.

[Hubert Angaiak]

I changed the strings to 9-13-20-32 nickel strings and crafted a pick to try to match the quill type pick. I am pretty amazed at how the sound improved. The only concern I have is the 0.09's seem pretty deep at the bridge, but it still rings. I noticed a slight depression where the bridge usually is on the sound board and I'd expect this due to its age and possibly strung up with wrong kind of strings. Amazing little thing!!