Bending sides

[buckhorn]

there are two different designs for a steam box listed in a story in the march issue of WOOD magazine...both look interesting and may apply to forming rims...i might try making one myself...they also list a free 2-minute video on steam bending at their web site...woodmagazine.com/videos...it may overwhelm the wood, but it does look handy... what'cha think..keith

[PaulD]

Generally speaking I think that a steam box is overkill for bending ribs... the wood is thin enough that it's not too hard to get heat to penetrate with dry methods. I've used steam boxes for bending thicker stock and a friend used one to make a solid banjo rim (can I say "banjo" on this forum? http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif ), but he was bending about 3/4" oak. Don't get me wrong... I'm sure it would work, but the setup time and hassle is probably not worth it, and you don't want to get it too wet with the steam so the cook time would be short.

pd

[amowry]

Not only is steam overkill, but I think you'd find yourself breaking sides if you use figured wood. It tends to crack easily if it's too wet.

[Justin Carvitto]

I just tried this, and it was a first attempt. It would work for an A, but didn't with my F.

[Mark Franzke]

I use a modified teakettle on the stove with a rubber gas-line hose and a brass nozzle. I put the wood between aluminum straps, apply the steam, and tighten the clamps against a form and it bends easily. As long as the straps maintain tight contact with the wood, it won't split at the curl. I don't soak it first, because I don't want it to be too wet. I agree that a steam box would make the wood too wet.

[ErikAitch]

A steambox is way overkill for a few reasons, especially those as listed by Paul and Andrew, plus you've have to deal with getting the wood back to a moisture level equilibrium suitable for the instrument. And that means starting off with sides that are thick enough to allow you to scrape them down to the desired finished thickness, as they'll tend to ripple. DAMHIK. http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/rock.gif

It's really much easier to bend dry or very slightly damp on the bending iron... or so it seems to me after a half dozen sets of uke sides. The right wood thickness and iron temperature seem far more critical than moisture content.