black finish

[toddr]

i'm getting ready to finish my second mando and im thinking about going black with varnish. i know varnish is a lot more labor intensive than lacquer, but i dont have a spraying room and it is still pretty cold here in tennessee. and im also kind of curious about varnish and french polishing. i have some black alcohol soluble dye. what is the best method for getting started? i would appreciate any input.

[stevesrustyone]

Don't use just blk. oil varnish by its self. It will at best have an over powering purple cast. Better looking on Maple, than Spruce.
I just stripped blk. oil varnish off of a Red Spruce top.
Looked like $%&*. I went with a more natural looking red brn. and clear. Looks looks great now.

KEEP PICKIN'

Stevesrustyone, http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/mandosmiley.gif

[samuel]

See that is my problem, I have no means of spraying a finish. #I have debated buying the spray can Lacquer from Stewmac but have heard it looks like crap. #I am really trying to figure out what I can do to put a good finish with no means of spraying, but without killing myself learning french polishing

[stevesrustyone]

Get you a good brush just for oil vardnish. You don't have to have spray equip. International Luthiers sells an Oil Varnish Kit the brush comes with it.

You don't have to kill yourself with Oil Varnish. Thin your oil varnish about 50%, with Turpentine. Seal your instrument first with egg whites,or clear dewaxed shellac. Start putting on you Oil Varnish. About a coat a day is all you can put on, depending on your shop conditions.
If you get to a coat that won't dry, wipe the instrument dowm with Turpentine,and let it hang for a couple of hours.

It will be ready for the next coat.

Now between coats sand lightly with sanding grits. I start with 220 ,or so and end up about 2000 grit. Don't skip any sanding grits because it will leave scratches in the varnish.

If your varnish wants to ball up under sandpaper, wipe it down with Turpentine. Stop varnish when you have desired color, and finish with clear, I usually stop at two,or three.

If you need any more help email at sparsons@zoomnet.net. I will be glad to help you through this ordeal. Really its not that bad.

KEEP PICKIN'

Steverustyone
http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/mandosmiley.gif

[sunburst]

I don't know how to do what you want to do, but I can tell you one thing that works with lacquer, and maybe it will give you some ideas to experiment with.
A lot of the Gibson instruments from the 30s and 40s had a painted black peghead overlay. Most people think it's ebony.
Anyway, if I have to replicate that look for a restoration I use hardware store flat black spray lacquer. With several coats of clear lacquer over it, it looks like the original.

On a scrap, you could try black paint under your varnish to make sure it's compatable and see if you like the look.

Good luck and let us know what you end up doing and how it turns out.

[edit]
I haven't tried the Stewmac spray can lacquer, but a friend of mine got good results with it on a guitar partial refin.

[Mando Medic]

I use the Stew Mac Lacquer all the time in my shop and it works great. The key is to not put too much on at one time. But you can put several coats a day on.
The tip about flat black lacquer on the top that has been sealed and then the varnish is accurate. I too have done that.

[samuel]

thanks... those were some great tips...