Changing out bridge

[Mandolinespieler]

I currently play a Weber Custom Bitterroot mandolin. #Currently it has a Brekke bridge on it that I am thinking of changing out. #Are there any suggestions for a new traditional style bridge? One that I am looking at is the Cumberland Acoutics 12" Radiused one from Elderly. #Are they fairly easy for a lay person to install as there are no real luthiers around here that work on mandos. Thanks.

You might want to start your quest by reading this (http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Luthier/Technique/Mandolin/FitBridgeFeet/fitfeet.html) article on frets.com (http://www.frets.com).

[Smyers]

Sure Mandolinespieler, #It's not too tough a job, provided you take yout time and do have an aptitude for fine detailed woodworking.

I had never done any work on any wooden instrument of any kind before a couple of months ago. #My first work was to put a new bridge on a mando. #Frank's info at frets.com is what I too used, plus advice from a local luthier. #I actually put a solid bridge on, which is even less forgiving than the standard adjustable variety for installation.

There were two things not discussed much on frets.com that I learned. #The toughest thing is to get your string spacing and depth perfect on the top piece of the bridge. #I can't stress enough how important that spacing is. #I had the D pair spacing off by .007" between the pair and I could feel the difference between it and the other strings. #You wouldn't think you could feel a diffierence that small, but you can. #The other thing I noted is that you need to make sure the back of your sandpaper does not move at all on the top of your mando while you are sanding your bridge's "feet", else you will scuff up the finish of the top just a wee bit. #It can be buffed back out though.

The other thing that is fairly tricky is to get the compensation cut correctly on the bridge so it stays in tune up the neck. #I used small pieces of old G string and sat the strings on top of those on the new uncompensated bridge to figure out how much to file away on each side at each string to get the compensaiton right. #This was the method suggested by a local luthier. #A little tricky, but it gets the compensation dead on. #My end results were off less than a couple of cents on any string. #I could have probably fiddled a bit more to try to get absolutely perfect compensation, but it was so close I didn't go any farther. #One would think that there should be a standard measurement for proper compensation, but I was told it varies from instrument to instrument. #Although most of the bridges I see on instruements look about the same to me as far as the compensation goes. #But I am a novice, so what do I know?

Why not just order the standard adjustable bridge from Weber? #It's a nice piece and comes with a little wrench so you can adjust your action while the strings are under full tension. #I have that bridge on my Weber.

[Mandolinespieler]

Thanks for the website and additional info. Scott, did you always have the standard adjustable on your Weber? If so, what sort of change did you notice in the sound?

[DryBones]

you can buy those same bridges direct from Cumberland Acoustics and they will slot them for you.

Here's a link to Cumberland Acoustics.

http://www.cumberlandacoustic.com/

[HarmonyRexy]

I put a Cumberland Acoustic bridge on one of my babies.
It wasn't hard at all... It was a labor of love fitting it to the top. #I bought mine directly from Steve at Cumberland and got them pre-slotted.

I definitely don't have a woodworking background... and on top of that, I'm a GIRL!

http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/mandosmiley.gif

[Mandolinespieler]

Do the Cumberlands give a distict/better sound? What about the Traditional Brekke bridge that was suggested?

[doc holiday]

I retro fit a cumberland acoustics bridge to a varnish yellowstone I used to have. #Personally I didn't care for the big piece of metal in the brekke traditional. #Soundwise the c.u.was great.
I now also have a cumberland acoustic bridge on my Heiden. They are nicely finished and sound great

and on top of that, I'm a GIRL!
Rexy, that doesn't matter. What matters is that you had the fortitude to just do it. That in itself is cool. http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

[Phil Goodson]

Mandolinespieler said:
"I currently play a Weber Custom Bitterroot mandolin. Currently it has a Brekke bridge on it that I am thinking of changing out...."
======================================
Mandolinespieler,

Was there a problem with the Brekke? Educate me as to how one decides whether to use a Brekke; traditional; or one piece non-adjustable bridge.
All replies welcome,

Another novice,
Phil

[Mandolinespieler]

Phil, there is currently no problem with the bridge and It does have its advantages. I was interested in possibly replacing for a more traditional look and sound. However I don't know enough about bridges to know if a change would really alter the sound.

[doc holiday]

I found the brekke to be "muddy" sounding rather than woody on my particular yellowstone and the loar-style cumberland acoustic bridge brought out more clarity and volume in the high notes and more note separation in the bass. http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/coffee.gif

[Martin Jonas]

Another one with good experience changing a stock bridge (in my case a rosewood adjustable) for a Cumberland bridge. Great improvement, and not too hard to do. I also followed the frets.com routine, without much difficulty. However, since then I have fitted a number of other bridges and now prefer to not use sandpaper. Instead, I chalk-fit the bridge. To do that, put some low-tack masking tape on the mandolin around the bridge position. Then, liberally cover the tape with chalk and firmly press the bridge blank into its right position, making sure the bridge is perfectly upright. You may need to wriggle it sideways a bit to make sure the chalk shows on the base of the bridge, but it needs much less movement than with sandpaper. Now look at the base of the bridge. Wherever there's chalk, the bridge was in contact with the top. Use a good woodcarving knife to shave away all the white bits. Repeat. After a few repetitions, you'll have a perfect fit. You may need to do some fine adjustments once you've taken the masking tape off and put the bridge directly onto the top, but that's the same for the sandpaper method.

Martin

[Smyers]

Jason,

My Weber I purchased off the wall at the Mandolin Store. #It came with the standard style bridge, not the Brekke bridge with the wedge adjustments. #I have been told by a number of people that the Brekke wedge bridge sounds too dark. #The standard Weber bridge sounds clear and looks very nice and "traditional", if that is what you are after. #The upper part of Weber's traditional brige certainly looks a bit more refined than a Cumberland bridge, as it is thinner and a bit more sleek in appearance. #As far as the little hidden piece of metal goes, I can't say that it affects the sound, although everything in the sound path affects things to some degree. #I picked this mando after comparing it to 10 others off the wall and felt it sounded great.

The bottom line is that a standard type Weber bridge will change the sound from your Brekke wedge type bridge. #Or a standrd Cumberland, or a solid bridge, or solid Maple bridge. #They all sound different and I will bet they vary to some degree from bridge to bridge, even in the same type wood. #I suppose it all depends upon what you are after. #You said you want a "more traditional" sound. #What is traditional to me may not be what is traditional to you. #Do you mean a "Loar" or "Gibson Master Model" sound, as many equate this to the "traditional" sound? #If you are after pure volume, a solid bridge (especially a maple bridge) will really increase the volume, but the tone will change considerably. #Of course a solid maple bridge is hardly a traditional look.

[dang]

I had similar thoughts about changing out my original Brekke bridge on my Bighorn, and instead I made an insert out of bone. (http://www.mandolincafe.net/cgi-bin/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=7;t=34755)

I am really happy with the changes that this brought out in my instrument. It is still not as woody as my A9 and not exactly that gibson sound, but I think it sounds better and more "pure". It can now handle it's own in a bluegrass setting, without a doubt. I think the overall volume is increaced and the instrument is balanced better.

[Mandolinespieler]

Thanks for all of the input and help. I am mostly likely to go with the CA bridge since almost all of you who recommened them said they improved the sound/volume and was fairly easy to install.