Mid Mo Sound Differences

[timacn]

I've been thinking about picking up a Mid Mo. I played four of them and tended to like the M4 sound best followed by an M2 and an M11 that I played. I did note that they all sounded pretty close.

Do the individual, peculiar "instrument to instrument" differences in mandolins mean more to the mandolins' sound, generally, than the wood used? (hope I was cleaqrae with than question)

Thanks

[timacn]

I meant "clear with that question." Bifocals were not on.

[stevem]

All other things being equal (a good setup on both, same type of bridge, tailpiece, etc.), varying the wood type leads to a much greater tonal differences.

The 2 M-4's I've owned sounded basically the same. They were notably, though not drastically, different from my brother's M-0. There certainly might be 2 M-4's that sound markedly different from each other, but that would be the exception.

[8ch(pl)]

I own a n M-4 and am forever plugging Mid Missouri's on this board. I have however only played mine and an M-0 (or M-1, I forget). It was spruce top and mahogany everything else. I found it had a mellower sound and I regret that I did not buy it. The local dealer stopped bringing them in due to poor sales.

I am interested in hearing an M-3. There are only a few of these in Nova Scotia.

[Jonathan Rudie]

I have a Mid Mo #M-4 and am pleased. Before I bought it I played about 12 different Mid-Mo's (The mando shop in my town had a large selection at that time). #To my ears the tone of the M-4 was the most pleasing and best balanced. My advice try as many as you can and pick the one with the tone/sound that you like the most.

[Richard Russell]

The different tone woods that Mid-Mo offers provides a variety of tonal options. I will say, however, that the M-0 that I chose is a bit more mellow than an M-1 at my local music store. They are the same woods, mine just lacks the top binding. It is not a big difference, but, enough to lead me to buy the one that I did. They have an M-3 that seemed quite a bit brighter and probably louder while still offering a beautiful complex tone. I think the M-3 is fantastic. Have not tried an M-4 yet. I would love to hear the all mahogany M-11, seems it would be very warm and deep sounding. Interestingly, I have noticed that a lot of Ukuleles are made with all mahogany. Wonder how well they project? I am a big fan of mahogany instruments and I have always thought the Weber Hyalite that I have played is not only warm and sweet, but also very very loud! Anyhow, I really feel that ALL the Mid-Mo mandolins are a fantastic value and are built to sound great and to last a lifetime.

[8ch(pl)]

There is a local musician who has played professionally for 45 years or so. He owns a Guild small bodied Mahogany Top Guitar that is absolutely sweet. He bought it new in the early 60's. I believe he said that he has a larger bodied version as well.

Another pal of mine has a Mahogany Top Mexican built Martin Ukelele that projects quite well.

[Brad Weiss]

I only played a bunch side by side last year at Mando Bros, so my experience isn't extensive- but the M3 stood out from the bunch for sheer clarity and complexity. FWIW

[Michael H Geimer]

I own two Mid-mo's and enjoy each of them for different reasons.

The M-11 is my favorite of the two (but only if I *had to* choose). It has has a very Old-Timey sound, that is mellow, deep, and in some ways reminds me of the old Gibson oval holed A's. It has great note separation. Single note lines sound really sweet and full ... but that same quality can make a strummed chord a little sound awkward, since the notes don't blend together so much as they stand out from each other. I haven't had too much success using the M-11 in jams and groups. It is certainly quite loud, but the mahogany tone often gets buried behind guitars, banjos, or another spruced-up mandolin. Also ... *zero* chop. It's just not going to happen on the M-11.

The M-0 is pretty much the polar opposite of the M-11. It's spruce top is lively and shimmery and jangley, but without burying those deeper wooden tones. Single note lines are perhaps a little thinner-sounding than the same part played on the M-11, but the spruce-top tone will carry much farther inside a group situation. I had no trouble using the M-0 in jams while on vacation; I played in a couple of circles at a small festival, and also at one pub's open acoustic jam night. The M-0 carried well, and my friends said there were times I was *too loud*. (I had been pounding the heck out of it, figuring I wasn't loud enough ... I guess I was wrong). Chords ring out full and strong on the M-0, and I can easily coax out a faux-chop that cuts through the mix and gets the job done as well as a flat-top can.

I bought the M-0 only because I saw a cheap ad on Craigslist ($275), had the dough on hand, and had the time to go get it that morning. I never expected to 'bond' with it as much as I have. I just figured I'd carry it along on my trip and if it got bashed up along the way, that'd be OK. (If it got busted today ... I'd cry and cry and cry)

I am so happy owning two Mid-mo's! I just can't get over these little wonders ... they get played more often than my Weber (which I'm also really really happy with BTW, but you won't see me on every Weber thread the way I pop up when Mid-mo's get discussed).

Go Mid-mo!

- Benig

P.S. (on the subject of hog-tops): I also own an all-mahogany guitar (Martin 000-15s), and I do hear similiar tonal characteristics between that guitar and the M-11.

[GBG]

The mandolin/guitar player for Smithfield Fair, the group that is seen on the Mid-Missouri website used to live about 3 blocks from me. He told me that Mid-Mo would let him have any mandolin he chose. He said he played every model they make and chose the M-0, the cheapest and best sounding one to him.

I would like to be able to compare the M-0/M-1, M-3, and the M-4. I used to own an M-2 (too bright). One of the builders at Mid-Mo told me the M-4 was usually the loudest.
.

[Martin Jonas]

He said he played every model they make and chose the M-0, the cheapest and best sounding one to him.
Glad to hear, as I have an M-0 coming to me. I've picked it up for a good price from Ebay Germany, as posted elsewhere on the Cafe. Couldn't pass on it: they're rare as hen's teeth on my side of the Atlantic and at this price it was less than half of a decent British flattop. This one has the wide fingerboard option.

I'm wondering what strings people put on it. I have a spare set of Jazzmando JM-11 strings, which I think may well suit it. Otherwise, I'm open for suggestions. Also, the M-0 has a rosewood bridge, but I understand that if one were to order it in violin scale, it would have an ebony bridge. Has anybody here done a side-by-side comparison of different bridges, and how it affects the tone?

Martin

[8ch(pl)]

I use Darco lights, they are a good price.The company strings them with GHS LIghts and I have used them as well. Next change is to the La Bella set that aarich sent me from JazzMando.com. Great guy Richard. I will likely put them on in a month or so. You will like your instrument Martin.

[GBG]

Just from what I've read the JM-11's may be good. In another conversation I had with a Mid-Mo company employee (it could have been the owner), I was told that their mandolins could handle D'Addario J74's. I don't know if they would be a good choice, but it's nice to know that they can take that much string tension.

[Richard Russell]

The M-0 I own does very well with the Darco lights that Glen mentioned above. I've been using a set for at least 4 months and no need to change them out yet. For a little more volume, the GHS Bobby Osborne set was fantastic! I think lights or med-lights are the way to go. These Mid-Missouri mandolins are a pleasure to own! I've listened to sound samples from Smithfield Fair from their website and that M-0 sounds great. It fits in perfectly with the band's sound, standing out just enough, but not overpowering other instruments. It looks just right as well, fitting in perfectly with their traditional approach. One thing that I find to be so wonderful with my Mid-mo is the ring and sustain that the E string has. It is truly beautiful. As Benignus says ... Go Mid-Mo!!!

[Keltic Fiddler]

I have the M 11. I played every model of Mid Mo's and kept coming back to the M 11. I like the deeper, richer tone it produces. I wasn't concerned about the lack of "chop" since I play mostly Irish, and tend to play the melody or an occasional harmony.

I've been using D'Addario J-62's on mine.I tried the J-74's when I first bought the mando, but didn't like them at all, and I found it almost impossible to keep the strings in tune. Since changing to the J-62's, I have had no problems.

On occassion I have used Martin Light Mando Strings - since the one local music store near me only sells that brand. They worked, but they didn't last long.

[Tighthead]

Folk of the Wood's site has demo sound file of each Mid-Mo mandolin: http://www.folkofthewood.com/page2518.htm