Ebony Tuner Buttons

[Stillpicking]

http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/mandosmiley.gif

OK I been reading a couple of topics on ebony tuner buttons and I thought I would give it a try and make one. Took me a while to get the right setup and tools but I think I got it or close to getting it anyway.

I plan on making a set for myself but was wondering if there was any interest from you folks as to wanting a set also.

So first off, what do you all think based on the photo image here and secondly, any one interested in a set and what would you be willing to pay for a set of 8 handmade ebony tuning buttons?

Thanks

[sunburst]

I notice those are on Grovers, because I just adapted a set of Stewmac ebony buttons to Grover tuners. I was afraid the countersunk screw heads would split the buttons if someone cranked down on them with a screwdriver, so I went with flat head screws. (from "Gibson Grovers")

If you can make them to fit the various shafts of the various tuners on the market, and supply flathead philips screws for the various threads of the various shafts of the various tuners on the market, I'd gladly pay the stewmac price or more and just put them on without having to modify the button or the shaft!

[Stillpicking]

John,

Thanks for the quick feedback, my thinking was that I could make them up for Grovers, Gotohs and Schallers. The Grovers and the Gotohs both use screws so my thinking was that anyone who wanted a set for those two machines would already have the screws that would fit and would just reuse those on the new ebony buttons. The Schallers at least the set I have are glued on so for anyone wanting a set for Schaller machines they would simply remove their old plastic buttons and slide & super glue the ebony ones on those would only be drilled out for the bottom shaft and no top hole.

The button in my photo uses the screw that came with the Grover tuners so I just made the button to work with the original screw so I didn't have to worry about the threads.

You are correct about possible cracking and I made a prototype button out of Walnut and it did crack when I cranked the screw down. So I went to ebony which as you know is a very very hard wood and I counter sunk the top hole on the button so it would grab the threads and not be sticking up too much.

Anyway, what is Stew Mac getting for their buttons and are they ebony or black plastic?

Thanks

Mike

[sunburst]

Anyway, what is Stew Mac getting for their buttons and are they ebony or black plastic?
They are ebony, for Waverly.
I'll have to get back to you on what they cost. I went to the web site, and they don't list them. I don't remember what I payed, and I can't find the receipt. It's not where it belongs, ( http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/mad.gif ) so I'll have to find it.

Using the existing screw is fine for Gotoh, but the Grovers have that oval head screw (read: wedge), and need a countersunk hole. The Gibson Grover screws are slotted, and very soft metal so they deform very easily from the screwdriver, and leave a sharp burr that I don't like the feel of. I had to burnish the screw heads to smooth them. There was already a burr when I got them.

[Stillpicking]

Hey John did you find the sales slip for the cost on those ebony stewmac buttons?

Mike

[sunburst]

No. Looks like I'll have to turn the place upside down to find them before tax time. Probably in the shipping box pile somewhere.
You might try calling Stewmac and ask for the price. That's how I ordered mine.

[Dale Ludewig]

John, I think all the "non standard buttons" for the Waverly's cost about the same- about $50-75 more if I recall. I'm sure it's at least $50.

And you're right about overtightening the screws. I overtightened on one Grover Ebony button and it split. So, yes, non-countersunk screws would probably work better. Round heads would probably be best.

Round up those tax records! Or else just have a water main break......... http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/rock.gif

[sunburst]

Round heads would probably be best.
I agree. I just looked at my earlier post and saw that I mistakenly said flathead. (oops)

[BlueMountain]

Ebony buttons are my favorite. However, if it were me doing this, I wouldn't turn them myself. I'd ask Bruce Wei in Taiwan to have a thousand made for Grover, Schaller, and Gotoh. He can probably supply you with finished buttons for not much more than you would pay for the ebony.

[Paul Hostetter]

If Bruce Wei made them, no two would match.

[atebfor7]

Hey Mike is it posible that if the grain ran the opisite direction to the shaft it would help make it stronger.And
why not use loctite on the screws and not over tighten them? Rock maple would look good on a blond mando,and if you need them darker stain them.I would go for a set! Vern http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/mandosmiley.gif

[Stillpicking]

Vern,

I tried a few different hard woods but Ebony appears to be the hardest and believe it or not one of the easier woods to shape as it is rather like a plastic material in that you can remove very fine amounts of material in a very controlled way Maple would be more fiberious and thus lack that characteristic.

The set that I just completed has the grain running opposite the shaft and you are right on about that avoiding some of the splitting problems.

If your interested I can post a pic of the completed set.