Finally figured out easy way to change strings

[Fred_Murtz]

OK, all of you probably know this, but it takes me awhile longer to figure things out (been playing mando close to 30 years).

I have always dreaded changing my mando strings because I needed 3 hands: 1 hand to hold the string loop on the peg, 1 hand to hold down the string at the nut, and 1 hand to wind the tuning key.

I had a moment of revelation the last time I changed strings when I realized I could let 1.5" of loop end of the string just lay loose and extend past the peg. Then I can hold down the string at the nut and wind the string around the tuning peg until the loop gets almost to the peg, then stop winding, put the loop on the peg, and continue winding.

Duh!

[ShaneJ]

Since I was a kid, I have always started the tuning peg with the hole perpendicular to the fretboard. I insert the string and leave enough "slack" that the string lifts up about 2" off the fretboard. Bring the end around the peg, bending it inward towards the middle of the peghead. Run the end under the string and then lift the end straight up - this locks the tag end under the 1st wrap of the string around the tuning post. Now, all you have to do with your other hand that is holding the string is press your thumb down at the nut and lift the string up with your fingers. This takes up the slack and holds the loop in place while keeping the string in the nut slot. Make sure you guide the 2nd wrap UNDER the 1st wrap so that you aren't wrapping over the tag end every time. If your last wrap is around the tuning post ONLY, you won't end up getting a "lump" under the string right at the "sweet spot" that proper tuning calls for. (make sense?) Crank the tuning machine with your string winder. Let go with your "slack hand" whenever there's no more slack to worry about.

[Steven Stone]

I just use a capo.

Any Spring-loaded capo should work. I like the Keyser capos. Even the guitar version is perfect for changing mando strings.

It holds the strings tight from the tailpiece so I can position the strings through the tuner for just the right amount of turns on the shaft.

[billy parker]

A Bill James tailpiece is a great answer as well; clips down to hold the string in place at the tailpiece giving you 2 free hands to do the hard part!

[mandroid]

string usually stays on the hook , fine. pull it snug, and hold it down with edge of your RH on the fretboard,hold with fingers feed the end thru the peghole with LH, doubling it over itself,so as to not slip back, 3x around the post is enough wound string winding,( slack distance equal to the width of your R hand) a/e will probably be wound more times around peg by the time its tensioned.

after 20 years the PIA will be 2nd nature. http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif

[mythicfish]

Capos? Capos? We don got no stinkin capos!

Quoted without permission from "The Treasure of the Sierra Mando"

[Steven Stone]

[Capos? Capos? We don got no stinkin capos!]

Your loss.

Or perhaps you live in a third world spot such as Atlantis? http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif

[John Flynn]

I have used the capo method also. It is a good way to go. But I have gotten the technique down where I no longer need it. I use a neck rest that holds the neck in place. I hook the string on the tailpiece and put the sting through the peg. taking out all the slack. Then I back off the hook about an inch. I do my locking loop on the peg and bend the loop back far enough that it will hold itself together as I wind without me holding it. Then, with the electric screwdriver/winder in one hand and the loop end in the other, I wind up the tuner until the loop gets back to the hook. Then I hook the loop and keep winding. Now my "loop hand" is free to make sure the string stays in the nut and bridge slots until there is tension on the string. This takes a little timing and coordination, but I can change a string pretty fast now without a capo or a third hand.

[8ch(pl)]

I start at the tailpiece and run the string through the bridge and nut. Then I bring it up to the post, pull it snug and wrap it around 3 times (twice for the wound strings) then put it through the hole. I make sure that the wraps are even with no overlap, then tighten up the tuner. If it is snug when you start turning, it will only add about one more wrap. the wraps also climb up the post as they tighten and hold the string against the top of the post hole. I trim it off without twisting it back on itself or going through the hole again. I have never had trouble with the string coming out.

[Jim Yates]

Hey Glen, I feel that's the best way to do it too. If you break a string on stage you can usually finish in time to start the next song easily. (or finish the song you broke the string on if you broke it near the start of the song or if it's a long song)

[SurebetVA]

I always wondered what they invented capos for...now I know.