Weber, Eastman and Collings!

[Richard Russell]

Oh boy!!! #I had two hours of mando tasting at a local music store that happens to stock some wonderful mandolins! #I played the following models: #Eastman 615, Eastman 805, Weber Hyalite, Collings MT, Weber Bridger, Breedlove OF Quartz and Mid-mo M-1 and M-3. #Well, the Eastman A beat the F model for quality of sound, and seemed to have better balance and bottom end. #The Weber Hyalite was wonderful. #It had good volume, a nice warm sound, nice chop and good overall balance. #The Collings...best of the bunch! #It had great volume, nice balance, great bottom end as well as a strong chop. #Playability was top notch (price is a bit above my reach #http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/sad.gif ). #Didn't play the Bridger much, but it was a delight with great sustain and resonance and good volume. #The Breedlove was impressive. #I did notice the slightly wider fretboard , but it was not a problem. #Sound was nice, but the E-string was a bit weak/thin sounding. #The Mid-mo models were great! #I already have one, and they are always a great sounding mando! # The top three: #Weber Hyalite, Eastman 805 and the Collings MT. #

I would love to hear from owners of any of these models. #What are the strengths of these models and what sold you on the one that you picked? # #I always value your opinions here at the Cafe! #Thanks!!! # http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif

[jmcgann]

I should be practicing!!!

I really like the Collings MT. It really should be down to what YOU like best, since the wonderful world of modern mando lets us have a kinds of flavors!

[Richard Russell]

Yes, you're right, and I will be making that choice soon! I have been researching this for awhile and have had a lot of fun in the process! It amazes me the variety of sounds that are available in a mandolin. I am leaning toward the Weber Hyalite. The mahogany back and sides sounds great to my ears. I read comments that indicate that it does not project so well in a jam. I do need good projection for some of the jams that I attend. Will mahogany "limit" a mandolin as far as being heard in a jam goes?

[8ch(pl)]

I am curious as to how the 2 Mid Missouris sounded, compared to each other. The Walnut M-3 is more recent in the lineup. A local shop is a dealer, however they have not had any Mid missouris for a couple of years. They did not sell that well here. I have never played (or seen) an M-3. Is it's sound like my Rosewood M-4 or like the Mahogany M-0 and M-1?

[spoefish]

I have a MidMo M-3 and I like it better than the M-2 (maple) that I previously had. #The M-3 is very smooth and bright without being plinky or tinny. #Just a very comfortable sounding and playing mandolin and I think it would have plenty of volume. #I have not had it out playing with other folks that much, but it sure sounds good sitting around the house playing it. #And it looks great - the walnut is nice, and the binding and checkerboard center strip on the back are nice touches. #All that said, I will most likely end up selling it since these days my playing time seems to get divided between my Eastman 604 and a maple Hyalite. #Maybe just because they are newer, not really better. #Just nothing bad to say about MidMo mandolins - they are really well made good sounding mandolins.

Stephen

[Richard Russell]

The M-3 was, compared to my M-0, a little brighter, probably a little louder and I felt it had an even more complex sound. More overtones, perhaps. The M-0 is very warm, and has a deep sound in the lower notes on the G-string and also rings out nicely on the higher notes. Very pleasant. Haven't played the M-4 yet. The M-3 is truly beautiful. Has the gold grover tuners and the cool strip down the center of the back as Stephen (spoefish) mentioned. I'd recommend it for sure!

[Kevin Briggs]

Hey, man. If you're feeling about the same about all of them, maybe a non-performance issue will seal it.

I own and love and Weber, and the customer service makes the package that much sweeter. You'll never meet nice people than Paula and company up there in Montana. They'll give it to you straight, and will do whatever you want with good, honest ethics.

[Bob DeVellis]

Although they're all good values, if the Collings is the one that speaks to you, stretch a bit and go for it. I've never regretted getting a better instrument over a lesser one, if I could swing it. I have regretted (both during ownership and at resale) getting an instrument that I didn't like as well but that was somewhat less expensive. On the other hand, I've played really nice instruments that had prices I would never pay for an instrument and had no trouble walking away from them. But if it's just a bit of a stretch and you like it more, you may be happier with it longer (like, maybe even forever) and save yourself money in the long run.

[clarksavage]

Somehow, I was stuck in Dreadnaught Addiction Syndrome back in 1974 when I had very little money (the single D35 is long gone, I needed food at one point! I did get a fine Epiphone in 1980 and still have it today...) I was given a 1920's Gibson A4 that had survived a flood/hurricane in its case but looked so awful that someone just handed it to me. I used lemon oil and lots of care (with no knowledge) to put it back into shape and have played it once or twice a year since then. NOW, 30 years later, I am smitten with MAS and OMAS (at the same time!) However, once again, my own budget does hold me in check.

Today - I have the Gibson A4, just had a fret job (and wow, did that make a difference!) I wanted a simpler instrument to carry around with me and ended up with a travel mando (the Martin) then another (the Weber) and my local music store started stocking Kentucky, Weber, Breedlove and Collings mandolins. I've been playing these things and want them all.

I did purchase an Eastman 804 over the net and used the return policy (it had a bad bump in the neck and I believe got returned to the factory). I was disappointed but will live through it, with a small loss. One day, I saw the bottom of the line Weber (Aspen 1) up on the rack next to all the more expensive (and very fine) mandos. I picked it up and played it a bit and was just plain taken with the sound. I liked it more than the "deeper" and "fatter" sounding companions on the rack, I know why they cost more and agree with it, but darnit, this little Aspen 1 just has a "clean" and "clear" sound with amazing sustain and enough of an opening in its sound that I wanted to have it. Next to my A4, it sounds "less" in volume and bottom for sure, fewer overtones. However, I often prefer it because of its amazing clarity (come to think of it, the Eastman 804 had some of that clarity when it didn't buzz up the neck :-) ... just wish that neck was right in the first place, loved that scroll.)

Against all other advice (the onlookers), I choose the little $1K instrument over the others. It has a shallow box, is all maple, very simple but hooked me.

I've also made purchases in the past (the Martin backpacker) that I'd regretted, but then came to enjoy in the long run. Overall, take good care of your own budget and listen to your own ears. I agree that buying "up" is almost never a bad thing if you can afford it, those mandolins sound and look fine. But stay open to the whole range, its like a new adventure.

[red7flag]

I could not agree more with bobd. #The only money I have wasted on instrument as those where I tried to be economical and bought a cheeper instrument than I wanted. #I always went back and got the one I wanted and would have trouble selling the first one.
I just went to IBMA and was in Mando Heaven. #I was not sure how I would like IBMA in Nashville as I really never liked SPBGMA here (due to the location at the Sheraton). #IBMA was great. #The exhibition area was fabulous. #I was not there for the World of Bluegrass (the Trade Show part) but only for the Fan Fest. #I was told that many more instrument dealers set up for the Fan Fest. #I tried a bunch of really nice mandos. #Some that I would not use for fire wood. #And had a great time seeing old friends. #The best mando I played was a Page. #It was his own mando and for sale for 9k, but you could tell he didn't want to sell it. #Had great sound all around. #I was really impressed. #He also had a great Power Point presentation on how he makes them. #All of the work is by hand, not computer generated work. Hope you IMBA info was ok to inclued. #I actually didn't even come close to buying an instrument. #Maybe my addiction is over....NO, just in sussation.
Tony

[spoefish]

I think the question about "how good is good enough" is an excellent one. #I have struggled with this in all my instruments - sometimes it is easy since there is not that much money involved, and buying used helps - my best dulcimer is a used Blue Lion custom rosewood that I bought from Elderly with a custom HS case for $550. #That was an easy decision since this was about the best dulcimer I have ever played and it was only a couple of hundered more than one that is only very good (McSpadden, etc. - no slight to them, but I think the BL is beter). #Sort of the same with my guitar - finally traded up from a Martin OM-21 to an OM-28VR (Elderly again) - the 21 was fine, but the 28 is exceptional (friends at Elderly said "buy this one or be sorry"), and the cost to trade up was only about $700 (a lot, but it would be hard to think of wanting anything beter than the 28 - sort of like an F-5 varnish).

In banjos it is a little different - I play mostly open back banjos (= I am a clawhammer player), and more money is mostly decoration. #I play an Ome Jubilee (least expensive in their range) custom model with a silverspun tone ring - this had been a special order for a dealer and has very fancy maple on the neck and Brazilian fingerboard - could not get a better banjo as far as I am concerned and was about a thousand used. #And my Reiter Tubaphone is about the same, although with much fancier inlays, but about the same price (used of course). #

Mandolins seem to be the place where prices just go crazy - but I think for most of us there are diminishing returns past a certain point. I think about a thousand to $1,500 is the point (at least for those of who play A style mandolins) where you should be getting a really good mandolin - mine are a custom (maple with gloss sunburst) Weber Hyalite, and an Eastman 604 (both well short of a thousand). #They are very different, but both very good at their jobs - old time for the Eastman, just a little of everything for the Weber. #I have looked at some nice Absoroka and Beartooth models, but I am not sure they would sound or play any better than mine, and I am reluctant to take a chance at the auction since I am very satisfied with the Hyalite. #The Eastman is the only new instrument (other than penny whistles and harmonicas - and my Dennis Dorogi dulcimer - another story since I could not get a used one and he had about stopped building them) that I have bought new in the last 30 years - I just can't make myself want a new one that bad when there are such nice deals on used instruments out there. #

I know that if everyone felt this way there would be a problem, but do consider that for a thousand dollars there are such fine A style mandolins out there (Weber Haylite and Asoroka, Flatiron Performer A, Gibson A-9, Summit A-100, plus many of the smaller makers, and now some of the Eastman mandolins - Elderly had a nice used 605 for $550 recently) #Anyway, something to think about, and good luck in your quest.

Stephen

[Richard Russell]

Some excellent points of view. #Really helps to hear from all of you who have been in similar situations. #I am thankful that at this point, my 4th mandolin purchase, I have a good idea of what I really want (and don't want) #and I have a wealth of good advice to guide me! #
I do believe that at the $1000 level, some fantastic A models can be had! #I'm confident that whatever I choose will be a significant quality improvement over my MK Legacy Solid (recently sold).
I'm listening to all advice regarding "stretching" a bit to buy the Collings. #With wife, two littles and single income (by choice), It may cause great "stress" if I stretch that high! #The advice is great, I completely understand and I have made my own mistakes in buying "cheap".

Stephen, I have to ask about your Hyalite. #Did you have any comparison with the standard, mahogany model? #Any thoughts on how different they sound? #Just curious as to why you went with the maple version. #I'm still wondering if I will ultimately be dissapointed with the mahogany Hyalite.

[red7flag]

Spoefish hit the other side. I think what Bobd and I were talking about was not spending more for decoration, but for the sound you wanted. I recently bought a Collings MF. To me while not unattractive, is just not the look I would have gone for (I have grown to like it more). What sold me was the sound. It actually sounded better than the MF-5s that I had played. Some suggest that the matted finish actually helps the sound. The price of the MF is slighly more than half of the MF-5. I think in that case you pay for the "look" and not the sound. After playing all the high end mandos at IBMA, I was plesantly surprised to come home and find that my MF, in my opinion, was a good or better than any of them. Maybe, just not a pretty, except where it counts, the ears.
Tony

[spoefish]

I had played a couple of standard Hyalites and while they were nice I found that I liked the sound of maple maple mandolins much better. #The notes just seem to be more defined and clearer - hard to get the exact words, but I would rather give up some of the mahogany sweetness (have that in my little Martin A style anyway) for the maple clarity. #The problem with the maple gloss sunburst Hyalite is that with the upgrades it actually costs a little more than a standard Absaroka - new that is. #I got a great deal on mine since I guess folks were just thinking Hyalite, not what it actually was with the upgrades. #In any case, my Hyalite seems to be a member of the family for good since my son wants of buy it from me if I ever upgrade to something fancier. #OTOH, this would not be my first choice as a "pure" bluegrass mandolin - but it is a great all round mando.

Stephen

[Richard Russell]

Really appreciate your input oh the difference of the two woods, as far as the Hyalite is concerned. I love the sweetness of mahogany as you mentioned. The thing is, I have a mahogany mando already (my Mid-mo M-0) and I would like another instrument to be quite different in tonality.
I probably would be better off going w/maple. I have previously considered the Absoraka, A-9 and Rigel A+. Haven't been able to play any of them yet(did play the F-9), so it would be taking a bit of a chance to buy one.