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wormpicker
Aug-25-2019, 5:20pm
I’m a beginner but can hold the dreaded G chop shape ok. When I practice chopping a I-V progression, I almost always go from the four-finger G (7523) to the 3-finger D (745x) by shifting the whole G shape up the neck 2 frets and over one string (i.e., fretting with index, middle, and ring, and freeing my pinky). But I’ve been playing along with the Pete Wernick Bluegrass Jamming DVD (second volume), and I notice that Eric Walser typically shifts from the 4-finger G to the 4-finger D (7452), keeping his hand in the same part of the neck but flipping his index, middle, and ring fingers). His way looks SO much more ergonomic, but dang, that finger shuffle sure is difficult for me! Since this is probably the most important chord change (right?), I’d like to learn how to do it the “right” or “best” way. Do most people do it the way Eric does it, with the finger shuffle? Should I keep working at that, or is my way of shifting the G shape up the neck and over a string just as good?

Bill McCall
Aug-25-2019, 6:38pm
When you just go I-V its easiest to stay in the same neck position, although it may take a while to get comfortable with that. Look at some other pro's playing and I'll bet that most stay in the same position. But there will be exceptions.

You can always practice A-E to get used to the shape in a easier to finger position.

Mark Gunter
Aug-25-2019, 9:11pm
Check out the fifth video on this page from Pete Martin: http://www.petimarpress.com/mando%20tips%20videos.html

wormpicker
Aug-25-2019, 9:40pm
Thanks, Mark! This looks like just what the doctor ordered for what ails me.

wormpicker
Aug-25-2019, 9:58pm
Wow, it’s brilliant to break this chord transition down to two movements (index and ring moving as one unit over one string and middle moving one string and one fret) instead of three separate finger movements. Just a few minutes of practice made it easier. Now I’m sure I’ll be able to get this 4-finger chord shift down.

Jim Broyles
Aug-25-2019, 10:13pm
In the key of G, I find these shapes work best 98% of the time:
G - 7523
C - 523x
D - 245x

If D is my I chord, I'll use 745x.

I do not like the 4 finger D chop - 2 roots and 2 thirds sounds weak to me, so I never use it.

UsuallyPickin
Aug-26-2019, 9:23am
It is important to learn and use both three and four tone chord forms. There will be times when one form suits the music better than the other. It is as much about tone as speed and ease of movement. Carry on... R/

dadsaster
Aug-27-2019, 10:39am
I favor chord shapes that omit the e-string. This is especially true for chopping, where the e-string makes the chop shape more grating (to my ears). The 4-finger D shape doesn't add anything imo, whether you want to play a D (V) with the pinky or the ring finger is up to you. I practice both.

Phil Goodson
Aug-28-2019, 10:23am
I favor chord shapes that omit the e-string. This is especially true for chopping, where the e-string makes the chop shape more grating (to my ears). The 4-finger D shape doesn't add anything imo, whether you want to play a D (V) with the pinky or the ring finger is up to you. I practice both.

Well, it adds some economy of motion in some situations. I essentially only use the 4 finger D when there's a quick GDG change in the music. Just saves moving my hand much for that D for only 1 or 2 beats. The more arrows in the quiver, the more choices you have.

dadsaster
Aug-29-2019, 11:36am
Well, it adds some economy of motion in some situations. I essentially only use the 4 finger D when there's a quick GDG change in the music. Just saves moving my hand much for that D for only 1 or 2 beats. The more arrows in the quiver, the more choices you have.

I use the 4-finger D shape when there is a quick GDG change as well. I just don't bother using 4-fingers (specifically the index). I still gain the economy of motion without sliding and with less hand tension.

Phil Goodson
Aug-29-2019, 3:40pm
I use the 4-finger D shape when there is a quick GDG change as well. I just don't bother using 4-fingers (specifically the index). I still gain the economy of motion without sliding and with less hand tension.

Sounds like we use similar techniques. When using 4 finger chop chords I often do not hit the E string even though I DO finger it just a s a matter of orientation.

Jacob Hagerty
Aug-29-2019, 4:39pm
Keep the pinky planted on 7 do not pick it up when changing back and forth. This will help

gfury
Aug-30-2019, 9:09am
Keep the pinky planted on 7 do not pick it up when changing back and forth. This will help

Easier said than done ;) . Pinky wants to move with the ring finger. I'm working on it ...

soliver
Aug-30-2019, 9:25am
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nLwRs0aNINM

This is the video that got me there. It is probably somewhere embedded in the link that Mark posted above. Within Pete Martin shows the transition from the A chop chord to the E Chop chord, its the exact same transition from G to D only moved back 2 frets. I use this transition all the time and practicing it mad a big difference for me.

archerscreek
Aug-30-2019, 9:52am
Yeah, that Pete Martin video helped me, too. And although I prefer a D chord chop with the E string silent, chopping isn't the only way to use chord shapes, even in bluegrass. So it's beneficial to be able to finger the 4 string D chord regardless of whether or not you chop it.

John Van Zandt
Aug-30-2019, 10:23am
Muting the E - with the fretting hand is a big challenge for me.

Suggestions, anyone?

Phil Goodson
Aug-30-2019, 1:43pm
Muting the E - with the fretting hand is a big challenge for me.

Suggestions, anyone?

Just lighten up on that finger till the string is off the fret. Or lean the nearest finger till it slightly touches the E string.

(Or don't hit the string with your pick.)

wormpicker
Sep-14-2019, 12:46pm
Thanks, everyone for your advice and encouragement on this 4-finger G to D chop switch. After a lot of practice, it’s beginning to click in. I guess it’s just a matter of sculpting all those new synapses. Curiously, it’s much easier for me to go from the D to the G than from the G to the D, but they’re both coming along nicely now. Now I have to work on the D-C/C-D shifts.

Through all this, I’ve come to agree with Jim and dadsaster in finding the sound of that 7452 4-finger D chord kind of grating. I much prefer the sound of the two 3-finger choices. But is is nice to have the 4-finger arrow in my quiver.

wormpicker
Sep-14-2019, 12:57pm
By the way, for all my fellow newbies who are also struggling with these and other chord changes, I find the Pete Wernick bluegrass jam videos very helpful and fun for drilling the chord switches and chops in the context of tunes. All three volumes are great. I used the ultra-slow 1st DVD to get the monster G chop down, and progresses (after a long time) to the second, moderately slow one. The early two-chord tunes on the second volume are especially good for working on the 4-finger G-D shifts. I recently tried going back to the third, “intermediate,” volume and was elated to discover that I could keep up with the chord chops, at least for the earlier tunes. Now I have to start all over again to work on lead soloing. But I do have to give a big plug for these Homespun videos. I just started taking a Wernick Method jam workshop and feel well prepared, having worked with the videos.

Drew Egerton
Sep-16-2019, 7:32am
A good chop can be achieved with really only the G and D strings. I'd call it maybe 92% of what you'll get by adding the A string to it and the E string is useless in a chop as far as the sound I like to hear.
Like Phil, I'll use that 4 finger D sometimes and may or may not be actually pressing the E string note down or just have my finger in that spot resting so it doesn't ring out.

Bill made a great suggestion to practice it with A and E instead so the reach isn't as high. It's always funny to me that we all try to start with G which is the absolute hardest to reach. Start with B even and move it down gradually as your fingers get used to the idea.