Slotting the saddle

[Miragliuolo]

I am going to attempt to put a new bridge on my mandolin. I got the concept of fitting the bridge to the top, but am lost when it come to slotting the saddle.
I figured I would use the old saddle as a template, but what do I use to make the slots? Nut file? Saw? What sizes? Help!

[Crowder]

It doesn't take much. I deepened the slots for my unwound strings with a box cutter. For the wound strings, you can use a small file or anything that is hard and skinny with some sandpaper wrapped over it. Insert off color joke here.

[jugband]

I figured I would use the old saddle as a template, but what do I use to make the slots? Nut file? Saw? What sizes? Help!
Nut files would be excellent, but a small triangular file from the hardware store would probably be okay.

For about $10, you can get a small set of jeweler's files that all fit in a small aluminum tube, like an oversized ballpoint pen.

Or, if you want to drop around $40, you can get three nut-files from www.stewmac.com, in .010, .024, & .035

Use the .010 for the "E" strings and "A" strings.

Just don't make the slots too large for the strings. Undersized is better. If the string sits too far down in the slot, it will have a muting effect.

I know one luthier who barely notches the saddles at all, saying that the strings will wear their own grooves of the proper size, in time.

The slots really only need to keep the strings in place, while tuning or playing really hard, so being deep-enough/wide-enough is more a matter of not making them too big.

If you make a .010 slot to hold a .040 string, it won't do the job, but if the slot is under-sized anywhere near the string size, it should be fine.

[Miragliuolo]

Thanks for the information folks!

[mandolooter]

I just finished doing my saddle this morning and there is nothing much to it. My saddle had the D and A strings sitting real low, kinda a reverse radius. I took off the saddle and sanded it flat after I marked in pencil where the slots were and then used a trianguler file to reslot. It worked out great and had the desired effect of making it a little easier to strum. I had thought about going with a tiny bit of radius but changed my mind since my fretboard is flat. Let us know how your works out.
Jeff

[Yonkle]

If your a big hitter and want to step up to the pump and pay "all the Chile" the nut files are about 10 bucks each. If you don't have them, take you bridge to a local guitar shop, they will let you use theirs I bet, only takes a few minutes, or I guess jewlers saw blade and a razor would work.. Or as Crowder said "Something hard and skinny with sandpaper wraped around it" Hmmmmm http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/laugh.gif

[jim simpson]

I 2nd (or 3rd, 4th?) using the nut files. I have used mine (from Stew Mac) countless times and the investment is well worth it. The thing about the files is that your string will seat itself best in a shape that matches the string. A V-shape will have a wedge effect and will tend to grab the string. It's true that the wound strings will eventually file the slot down to the shape but why wait?

[Rob Grant]

For those who can't afford to invest in special files, you can actually use the original strings to help cut the groove. Get a hold of one of those small, adjustable jeweler's saw. Instead of a blade, insert a section of the original mando wire that suits the slot and use it like a saw blade to cut the groove. You may have to lightly pre-cut the slot with something like an Exacto "razor saw" (especially with the unwound strings) to properly locate the string's position on the nut or saddle.

[evanreilly]

I use a tapered needle file & the point of a 'mousetail' file; works fine.

[mandolooter]

After 2 days of hard playing one of my E strings developed a kinda muted sound due to the slot not sloping enough from front to back and I had to rework it a tad, I just loosened the string up enough to remove it from the slot and refiled...5 minute operation with the desired results.:cool: