Stainless Steel Strings

[DHopkins]

I'm trying something new. We don't have any gigs for a couple of weeks so I put on a set of Mapes stainless steel strings last night just to try them out, At first glance, they seem to sound pretty good. I'll reserve final judgement 'til I've played them a while. (I put them on the Breedlove Legacy FF.)

I wanted to try the stainless because I'm tough on strings. Something in my system starts to corrode most strings within the first 3 or 4 weeks and I end up changing them every month-and-a-half or so. I'm hoping the stainless will be a little more resistant to the corrosion. I know there are varying qualities of stainless steel so I'll see what happens.

[pops1]

I use pure nickel from GHS and they seem fairly corrosion resistant.

[jawchops79]

Curious to hear what you think of the stainless steel strings. By accident, I came home from a local shop last week with a set of D'addario medium stainless steel strings (meant to get the phosphor bronze). I'm new to the instrument so I figure I'll use it as an opportunity to try another type of strings.

[DHopkins]

I bought 'em just to try out. These Mapes strings are only $5.00 a set (plus shipping) from the company. I've been using other Mapes strings with success. Before, I was using Gibson Sam Bush strings but my supply is running low and Gibson quit making them.

[Paul Statman]

Monel is corrosion resistant alloy, and is used to make coat-less strings. Martin, D'Addario and Mangan all make mandolin sets of standard (11-15-26-40) and other gauges. Tone is similar but not identical to that of phosphor bronze. Quite a few of us have switched to monels.

[multidon]

I’ve been thinking about trying stainless steel. What lots of people don’t realize is that stainless is not as hard as plain carbon steel. So, theoretically, the plain strings should produce less fret wear if they are stainless.

I don’t know if anyone makes a a stainless plain, model wound set, but seems like it would be ideal. All strings corrosion resistant, plain strings easier on frets, no coating necessary.

[DHopkins]

Stainless steel has varying qualities of corrosion resistance, depending on the alloy. Most do just fine, however.

I put a set of Mapes stainless steel strings on one of my Breedloves to check it out. They've only been on for a couple of weeks so it's a little early to say yea or nay. However, they seem to be working quite well. I'm sorta impressed...so far.

[Tom Wright]

I was using stainless-wound for a while on my electric---the Ernie Ball strings were good for a thick C that still held some tone after use. The overtones are different, not as sweet as nickel.

The unwound strings are not stainless, but regular hard steel, as are the cores of the wound strings, as I understand it.

[EricLopez]

I regularly use D'Addario's stainless steel strings, and they are excellent. I haven't noticed any corrosion/oxidation after even months of use. The strings are more likely to wear out from metal fatigue in the core before anything else. Tonally, they are on the brighter end of the string material spectrum though, so it may not be the sound everyone is looking for

[Paul Statman]

I’ve been thinking about trying stainless steel. What lots of people don’t realize is that stainless is not as hard as plain carbon steel. So, theoretically, the plain strings should produce less fret wear if they are stainless.

I don’t know if anyone makes a a stainless plain, model wound set, but seems like it would be ideal. All strings corrosion resistant, plain strings easier on frets, no coating necessary.

My understanding is that while the wound strings are of the material/s stated in the set's name, the plain strings remain the same. Plain old music wire, drawn and plated mild steel.

I stand to be corrected on any of this, as they are only my own assumptions!

[DHopkins]

My Mapes "unwound" A and E strings appear to be different than most others' strings. They're not shiny and somewhat darker than others. All of the strings are slightly darker in color making me think they may be stainless steel.

Usually, within a couple or three weeks, my A & E strings will begin to show some discoloration. (My system is tough on strings and I have to change them every couple of months, +/-. These strings are showing no discoloration yet. I want to leave them on for a while longer before I try to make any kind evaluation but so far, I'm happy with them.

[Paul Statman]

Could it be that the Mapes plain strings are not plated? Most sets appear to have a shiny coating on them. Years ago that used to wear off after a few hours, showing a dull, slightly red hue to the plain strings.

[DHopkins]

Could it be that the Mapes plain strings are not plated? Most sets appear to have a shiny coating on them. Years ago that used to wear off after a few hours, showing a dull, slightly red hue to the plain strings.

The strings are consistent in color from end to end and have been since I put them on. They are not dull or even matte but it's not a bright shiny. Don't ask me to look for a "slightly red hue" because I'm partially colorblind (red-green). (As a matter of fact, I was married for 15 years before I found out my wife's eyes were green and not brown but that's for a different forum.)

[Bill Romansky]

Somebody here on MC suggested mixing PB and SS, every other string. I tried it and it seems to work. I think the idea is that PB gives one response and SS gives another, creating a synergistic response, a wider bandwidth.

[Paul Statman]

Somebody here on MC suggested mixing PB and SS, every other string. I tried it and it seems to work. I think the idea is that PB gives one response and SS gives another, creating a synergistic response, a wider bandwidth.

Do you mean 'mixed' as in one of each material in the wound courses? Fascinating!

[Mandobart]

I was using stainless-wound for a while on my electric---the Ernie Ball strings were good for a thick C that still held some tone after use. The overtones are different, not as sweet as nickel.

The unwound strings are not stainless, but regular hard steel, as are the cores of the wound strings, as I understand it.

Most stainless alloys are not ferromagnetic. I would think that would detract from their performance with mag pickups?

[Drew Egerton]

I can't speak on the stainless, but on the corrosion....my hands are awful on phosphor bronze strings, coated or not. Lots of green building on both hands, fretboard, behind the bridge, etc.
I have switched to using D'addario Nickel Bronze and totally solved that probably. I have also been using Martin monels and not had a problem with those either.

[Tom Wright]

Most stainless alloys are not ferromagnetic. I would think that would detract from their performance with mag pickups?

Apparently guitar strings use a ferromagnetic version of stainless. No problem with signal strength, maybe even a bit stronger than nickel-wrapped.

[Bill Romansky]

Do you mean 'mixed' as in one of each material in the wound courses? Fascinating!

Yes, I forget the guy who posted it, but he’s a genius. He also added you get two sets out of the purchase.

[DHopkins]

Yes, I forget the guy who posted it, but he’s a genius. He also added you get two sets out of the purchase.

Am I missing something? Won't I get two sets if I click on the "2" with any one style of strings instead of "1" on two different styles of strings? :)

[Paul Statman]

Am I missing something? Won't I get two sets if I click on the "2" with any one style of strings instead of "1" on two different styles of strings? :)

As I understand it, one has to purchase two sets: one each of PB and SS. After mixing and stringing up using one half of each set, what is left is one more mix set just like it.

[DHopkins]

I understood it in the first place but it was presented as some type of advantage.

[Paul Statman]

I'm curious to experience the results from pairing (coursing?) monel with PB on my next string change. I just restrung yesterday, but I'll re-post when I do it.

[Timbofood]

This strikes me as an exercise in frustration. For those who get “months” of use out of a set of strings, I applaud you. If I’m really working a set of strings, I can’t get more than eight sets (45 minutes) plus, a like number of rehearsal hours. What are you complaining about?
Splitting sets? What is that advantage? Find the set that you like, and PLAY MUSIC! Quit whining about a set that ONly lasts three months! Sheesh.
Strings are cheap, c’mon. Really!?

[Seter]

The best method for getting your strings to last longer is to buy more mandolins to spread your playing across.

[Bill Romansky]

Splitting sets? What is that advantage? Find the set that you like, and PLAY MUSIC! Quit whining about a set that ONly lasts three months! Sheesh.
Strings are cheap, c’mon. Really!?

Let’s assess this together, putting two split sets every course. One metal gives one set of frequency responses, the next gives another set. For instance, the frequency response of a monel and PB string on the same course will give an overall wider frequency response, embodying the best of each metals. Now the volume of the “notched” response for each course is reduced by half for each individual string, but the resulting overtones from two different metals ends up a synergistic effect, the overtones produced by the “clashing” notches multiplying the sonic factor of each course. On the other hand, if it does no harm, why worry either way?

[DHopkins]

On the other hand, if it does no harm, why worry either way?

What?? Me worry? Not a chance.

[Bill Romansky]

I understood it in the first place but it was presented as some type of advantage.

It’s only an advantage to those who play enough to change strings frequently, or to those who are willing to invest an extra $15 to explore a wider sonic response.

[Paul Statman]

It’s only an advantage to those who play enough to change strings frequently, or to those who are willing to invest an extra $15 to explore a wider sonic response.

Combining (actually splitting) two sets to make one set still results in two, and two sets of strings doesn't require any extra outlay. What's the "extra $15.00" investment, Bill? Did I miss something?

[Bill Romansky]

Just an observation to calm the nerves of a nervous musician.

[mandroid]

Mapes using a Stainless steel for the core wire and plain strings , or just wound with stainless round wire?

[DHopkins]

Based on the coloration, they appear to be all stainless but that speculation on my part.

[Phil Goodson]

I emailed Mapes and the reply only said that the plain strings are tin coated. They gave me no other info. I wouldn't think that they would need to tin coat stainless steel plain strings, but I don't know.

Addendum: I just sent another message requesting clarification. Will report.

[DHopkins]

I emailed Mapes and the reply only said that the plain strings are tin coated. They gave me no other info. I wouldn't think that they would need to tin coat stainless steel plain strings, but I don't know.

Addendum: I just sent another message requesting clarification. Will report.

Like I said earlier, there are varying qualities of stainless steel. The Mapes strings are darker in color than most other strings and this might have something to do with the alloy. I'm not a metallurgist but I did play one on TV. Or not.

[multidon]

I read on a guitar centered web site discussion that Mapes is by far the largest maker of music wire in the country, and that most string manufacturers buy their wire from Mapes. Thus, in a way, most of us use Mapes strings no matter what brand they are. Anyone know if that’s true? In other words, does, for example, D’Addario manufacture their own wire, or do they just buy Mapes wire to make their strings?

[Tom Wright]

I understand D'Addario winds their own, but may buy plain wire stock from Mapes. I'll say I measured a significant difference in core wire size between DaD and Mapes, specifically the .047 phosphor-bronze string which had a thicker core for the Mapes, by a few thousandths. I think it was .016 for Dad and .021 for Mapes.

All metal strings use plain steel for the core and the unwound strings, with some variation in plating, such as gold or silver plating on some violin E strings, brass on some core wire, tin per Mapes (corrosion resistance I presume).

That's my understanding of the situation.

[Paul Statman]

I would have thought that *mild steel would be used for core and plain strings, which do corrode/oxidize. I imagine that drawing stainless steel wire would be rather tough to do, too.

*Awaiting the inevitable correction posts to come from some mfr. spokespoysen who actually knows this stuff!

[Phil Goodson]

Okay. Just heard from Sonja at Mapes.

The important part of her message is "....the core wire, or unwound string, is tin coated. That core wire is then wrapped with the alloy of choice. " (e.g. stainless steel, Phosphor Bronze, etc.)

[sblock]

Okay. Just heard from Sonja at Mapes.

The important part of her message is "....the core wire, or unwound string, is tin coated. That core wire is then wrapped with the alloy of choice. " (e.g. stainless steel, Phosphor Bronze, etc.)


OK. Thanks, Philphool and Sonja!

That means that the unwound strings are tin coated. And under that plating, the strings are very likely to be mild steel, not stainless steel -- the same for all types of sets. And it really doesn't matter what the core is from a corrosion perspective, given that it's tin-plated. It might matter from a sonic perspective. The slightly duller and darker color reported by others for the A and E strings of the Mapes "stainless" sets reflects their tin coating. "Stainless steel" strings, therefore, applies only to the windings found around the D and G strings, and says nothing at all about the A and E strings. It is good to get some ground truth on this point from an authority on the subject, once and for all!

[Timbofood]

Interesting!