String changes made easier

[RodCH]

Credit where credit is due. I bought a "Duramake universal instrument string winder" and a small cordless drill/driver to turn it. Cut the time to change strings in half and completely eliminated the couple of days of sore wrists (check my profile, yes I am old).

[Andy Miller]

My Hitachi screwdriver and string winder bit are tools I don't want to live without for a single day of work. One on the bench at work, one on the bench at home.

[sblock]

It's possible to avoid a whole lot of peg-turning -- and the use of string-winders altogether -- by adjusting the method you use to change the strings. As others have pointed out on the Mandolin Cafe, all you need to do is to first position and tension the new string by hand, wrap it the string several times around the winding post (3-5 times), and then thread the free straight end through the hole in the post. From there, just a few turns of the knob are all that are required to bring the string up to full musical tension. There is no need to get the tuner post to wind through multiple full revolutions, which (depending on the tuner gear ratio, 16:1, 18:1) can require up to a hundred turns.

[almeriastrings]

It's possible to avoid a whole lot of peg-turning -- and the use of string-winders altogether -- by adjusting the method you use to change the strings. As others have pointed out on the Mandolin Cafe, all you need to do is to first position and tension the new string by hand, wrap it the string several times around the winding post (3-5 times), and then thread the free straight end through the hole in the post. From there, just a few turns of the knob are all that are required to bring the string up to full musical tension.

+1

For faster changes yet - to add even more speed to the above: James tailpiece.

You can do a complete, full string change and tune up in around 4 minutes (on a good day).

[Tobin]

Yup, I agree with the others. I just hook the loop end at the tailpiece, hold one thumb on the nut with the string laid in the slot, then use the other hand to pull the string and wind it 3 times around the post (2 for wound strings). Once that's done, I take my thumb off the nut and use my fingers to pinch the string where it's wound around the post, leaving the open hole of the post accessible so I can run the string end through it. It takes a few times to get the hang of this and make it easy, but once you can do that, all you have to do is turn the tuner button to bring it up to pitch. There is no slack to take out.

The idea of having to turn the tuner button that many times to wind the string around it, or having to resort to gadgetry and electric tools is just strange to me. Using this "wrap first by hand" method, a string can be changed in seconds.

[Roger Moss]

Makes me feel a little dense for doing it the old way.

[Lord of the Badgers]

I had always used this method - and yes, a James makes it a ton easier. I like it cause you really don't need much string wound onto the tuner at all.
http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Musician/Mandolin/MandoString/mandostring3.html

so unless I've misread, seems like i should try the above :)

[Paul Kotapish]

I don't even bother with three wraps--a good lock as per the Frank Ford method (http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Musician/Mandolin/MandoString/mandostring4.html) and one wrap is enough. Never had one unwind on me, and I actually find all the extra wraps increases the tuning problems for the first few days. A regular plastic string winder is a help for getting old strings off in a hurry, but I rarely use one for tightening up the new ones, and I can get the job done in about five minutes or so.

[RodCH]

Sounds good. I will try this next time.

[Astro]

Man up guys and quit spoiling them. I just throw a new pack of strings in the case with my mando, close the lid and yell "you better have these strings changed out before I come back or else"... You do have to open the package first for the F styles though. They're just not as bright.

[Lord of the Badgers]

I don't even bother with three wraps--a good lock as per the Frank Ford method (http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Musician/Mandolin/MandoString/mandostring4.html) and one wrap is enough. Never had one unwind on me, and I actually find all the extra wraps increases the tuning problems for the first few days. A regular plastic string winder is a help for getting old strings off in a hurry, but I rarely use one for tightening up the new ones, and I can get the job done in about five minutes or so.

pretty much what I said on the post above yours :) :)

[Mandoplumb]

I put the string thru the hole hook the loop on tailpiece,wrap tuner end backwards and under string bend straight up, tune string to pitch, it doesn't even need a full turn because the tension has locked the end sticking straight up, it can't slip. A lot of the " streching" of new strings is really taking up slack on the pegs, this totally eliminates that.

[mandroid]

Peg winder, simple crank is good enough.

[Barry Wilson]

taking strings off I just loosen slack and cut them with side cutters. much easier getting a straight string end through them holes.

[Paul Busman]

Makes me feel a little dense for doing it the old way.
Yeah, the first time I tried it this way was a real "Well DUH!" moment for me. No more guessing how much slack to leave, locking the string, nothing. Super easy and fast.

[pops1]

I've wrapped it around the peg first for decades, it's fast and easy. Fastest time for changing guitar was 1min, 36sec. and that was in competition and tuned to a chord. I didn't win.

[Paul Kotapish]

pretty much what I said on the post above yours :) :)

Didn't see yours when i started my post, Bob. From the time stamps, looks like we were posting at roughly the same time. It took me a few minutes to look up Frank's link, etc. Anyway, great minds, etc.
PK

[T.D.Nydn]

Pops1... I would love to have seen the winner go at it in a string changing competition...that's great..

[pops1]

Yea, Martin donated the guitars, and we all just cut the strings under tension and went as fast as we could, think the winner was under a minute,but then it was a couple of decades ago so not sure the memory is spot on.

[Mandobart]

Makes me feel a little dense for doing it the old way.

This is the old way (pull tight, a few wraps around the post then through the hole). Its how I learned from a Guitar Player article about 40 years ago. They recommended 3 wraps for wound strings, 5 for plain. My mandocello C and G are too big for that; they get 2. I don't care for the lock-in-place method others describe, makes string removal harder than necessary.

[Tobin]

I don't care for the lock-in-place method others describe, makes string removal harder than necessary.

Yeah, I hate removing strings that have the lock on them. I have to use needle-nosed pliers to undo it, which risks scarring something if extreme delicacy isn't used. It's time-consuming and aggravating and unnecessary.

[AlanN]

I don't even bother with three wraps--a good lock as per the Frank Ford method (http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Musician/Mandolin/MandoString/mandostring4.html) and one wrap is enough. Never had one unwind on me, and I actually find all the extra wraps increases the tuning problems for the first few days. A regular plastic string winder is a help for getting old strings off in a hurry, but I rarely use one for tightening up the new ones, and I can get the job done in about five minutes or so.

I do it like Frank
No need for crank
Just give a yank
Pick a Dawg tune to spank
:mandosmiley:

[Shelagh Moore]

You mean there's no App for it... :disbelief:!

I've used the Frank Ford method since I can remember and it's simple, reliable and easy with the aid of a common or garden string winder (if available but hardly any bother if not).

[pops1]

Franks way doesn't wrap, but it has string to wind on the post. I pull the string tight, wrap, then thru the hole so very little winding. I believe it's as quick to wrap as to make the lock, less winding and easier to take off.

[Willie Poole]

On some mandolins there isn`t very much slant on the peg head between the nut and the tuners so if I get one like that for a string change I like to make about four wraps around the post to allow the string to be in a lower position and ride through the nut with more even contact in the slots, also keeps the string in the slots it the slots aren`t very deep...I do use a home made manual string winder....

I like to take my time changing them, just yesterday it took me about 20 minutes to change a set, I don`t see a need to be in a hurry unless it happens when doing a show and changing a single string that breaks...Which hasn`t happened to me in 50 years...

Willie

[AlanN]

Yep, it's not a race.

I use the time to inspect things, lube slots with a sharpened pencil, clean where needed and generally marvel at the mandolin all over again. The string loopers/wrappers are not wrong, this is how they do it and it works for them. I can see removing strings would be easier this way. I sometime have to snip off/grab a rogue string remnant that gets caught in the post hole.

The FF way has been my thing forever, plus Charlie Derrington turned me on to orienting the post holes east/west, then insert the string. Seems to seat it better, with more even tuning response when turning the knobs.

[Lord of the Badgers]

Yeah, I hate removing strings that have the lock on them. I have to use needle-nosed pliers to undo it, which risks scarring something if extreme delicacy isn't used. It's time-consuming and aggravating and unnecessary.

Lift up the string as you wind it off the capstan. Rarely an issue then

[Lord of the Badgers]

Yep, it's not a race.


it is at a gig, and why i pack two mandos when i'd prefer just the one... but then i had a set where i lost four G strings (so to speak) in an evening...!!! that was a bit crazy

[Tobin]

Lift up the string as you wind it off the capstan. Rarely an issue then

I've tried all number of ways to get it off; nothing works except clipping it or using needle-nose pliers to untwist that lock part. The problem is when the string is bent back over itself to form the lock (as shown in the 2nd photo here (http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Musician/Mandolin/MandoString/mandostring4.html)), and then it's brought up to tension and clipped short. That crimped portion of the string right next to where it's clipped can't be jimmied loose, and it's too short to grab with fingertips (I've stabbed my fingers a few times trying to do so). I can unwind the string from the post just fine, but the crimp is so snug to the post that the string won't unlock.

Unless I'm just totally misunderstanding your reply, I can't see how lifting the string as it's unwound is going to unlock the crimp.

[Lord of the Badgers]

I dunno - it pretty much always works for me - it leaves it easier to bypass the clamped over string. It's still fiddly, but I've never (edit: rarely ever) needed needle nose pliers in all the time i've been using this method

In fact the only time it's a real pain is if the string breaks close to the capstan, and that's when I (edit) need something. But that happens rarely to me as I said

further edit
(i'm v tired so not explaining well)
I lift as i unwind the string, using the main length of the string as leverage

[Mandoplumb]

Sounds like Tobin is clipping them way shorter than I do. I can see how that would make it difficult to unlock.I use needle nose to clip the strings when installed and leave an inch or so and roll out of the way with the plyers at that time. Works for me YMMV

[Lord of the Badgers]

i tend to clip flush with top of the capstan though if that sheds any further light

[Tobin]

Sounds like Tobin is clipping them way shorter than I do. I can see how that would make it difficult to unlock.I use needle nose to clip the strings when installed and leave an inch or so and roll out of the way with the plyers at that time. Works for me YMMV
I have never used the lock method. But I've had to remove strings from instruments where people do. Apparently the folks at the Mandolin Store use this method when they re-string after setup. And it's popular with other builders and luthiers too. Because it seems like every time I take strings off an instrument that someone else put on, it's with the dreaded lock method.

I think you're right, though. Clipping it too short past the crimp is what makes it difficult. If there was enough tail left to grab and bend back to unlock from the string where it comes out of the post, all would be well. But leaving that much sharp string end protruding can be hazardous too.

[Tobin]

i tend to clip flush with top of the capstan though if that sheds any further light
So then you only bend the string 90 degrees so it's sticking straight up? If so, I could see how lifting the string would work it loose. Every time I see this done, though, the string is bent at 135 degrees or even 180 degrees (so that it's parallel with the peg head).

[darylcrisp]

I put the string thru the hole hook the loop on tailpiece,wrap tuner end backwards and under string bend straight up, tune string to pitch, it doesn't even need a full turn because the tension has locked the end sticking straight up, it can't slip. A lot of the " streching" of new strings is really taking up slack on the pegs, this totally eliminates that.

I've been wrapping a couple times, but never even thought to do this. Makes total sense and I will use it next time.
thanks for posting
d

[Paul Kotapish]

Yeah, I hate removing strings that have the lock on them. I have to use needle-nosed pliers to undo it, which risks scarring something if extreme delicacy isn't used. It's time-consuming and aggravating and unnecessary.

Can't think of a time in many hundreds of mandolin string changes that I've encountered that problem. Once the string is loose enough to detach from the tailpiece, the slack does the rest. A quick flip of the wrist and the string is off.

It can be a bit of a nuisance on a slotted peghead, but I've never experienced it on a standard peghead--mandolin or guitar.

Curious.

[pops1]

The point of wrapping around the post is not for slippage, it is to help with breakage. It does help to keep from slipping, but it is supposed to take some of the stress from bending the string 90 degrees and keep it from breaking. At least that is what I was lead to believe. That is why you wrap 4 times on the plain strings and 3 on the wound as the plain are prone to breaking easier.

[mrmando]

Just sell the old mandolin and get a new one with new strings. Then you don't have to change the strings yourself.

[Mandoplumb]

Just sell the old mandolin and get a new one with new strings. Then you don't have to change the strings yourself.

But you ain't supposed to sell 'em, just buy more.

[mrmando]

But you ain't supposed to sell 'em, just buy more.
That works too. "Gotta get a new mandolin ... I plumb wore out the strings on this'un here."