Help with Gibson A style mandolin ID

[jacksond1]

Hello,

I recently got back into playing after 10 or so years after I was given my grandfather's old Gibson "A" style mandolin.

He passed away in 1960 or 1961, so I know it should date before that. The model number reads, "9311 23," but I have not been able to find that specific number on some websites I found recommended in this forum.

It has an un-engraved/un-marked "cloud" tailpiece cover, which was stuck and had to be removed for me to restring it.

Also, I am not sure if the tuners are original or not - info on this would be helpful as well.

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you - Drew

[mrmando]

Tuners definitely not original.

For most of the 1950s, factory order numbers are preceded by a letter of the alphabet: Z for 1952, Y for 1953, and so on. This FON has no letter and is greater than 6000, so it's from 1951, according to this guide:
http://www.guitarhq.com/gibson.html#serial

[HonketyHank]

Looks like an A-50 with replacement tuners. Nice looking mandolin. Probably sounds pretty nice too.

[MikeEdgerton]

What confuses me is that those tuners became available in the mid 60's. I've never seen them earlier than that.

[allenhopkins]

What confuses me is that those tuners became available in the mid 60's. I've never seen them earlier than that.

Yeah, if the owner died in "1960 or '61," could someone have put new tuners on it after that?

[jacksond1]

Thanks everyone for the assistance. I know my uncle had the mandolin for several years and he probably replaced the tuners. He also lost the case apparently.

It sounds great (straight neck, smooth frets, full tone) and didn't need a professional set-up.

The tuners, however, are sticking and difficult to tighten. And, if I slightly loosen them to tune up to the note, they go slack and de-tune further than I wanted. I am going to be playing some live music with a band and this may pose a problem when tuning between songs.

Any suggestions on some quality replacement tuners that would fit the current hole pattern?

[MikeEdgerton]

You need worm over A style tuners. This originally had Kluson tuners on it. There are replica tuners (http://www.wdmusic.com/tuners_kluson_supreme.html) like that available. Honestly, they aren't much better than the originals that were nothing to write home about. Tuner spacing is measured post center to post center. Stewart-MacDonald (http://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and_Parts/Tuning_Machines/Mandolin_Tuning_Machines/) sells a few different tuners that should fit. There are a few other brands, Grover, Schaller, and Gotoh available from other sources.

[Jeff Mando]

Being a cheapskate, a would first try a drop of oil, lube, WD-40 etc., on each gear where it meets the "worm", then turn each one back and forth for what will seem an eternity, but really is only two or three minutes per tuner. How do you just squirt a "drop" of WD-40 onto a gear? What I do is take a paper towel and squirt the tube into the towel, then slowly extract it and usually there is one drop left clinging to the end of the tube, again carefully place the drop onto the gear and turn the knob back and forth through the entire gear's range. I also hold a clean paper towel against the worm and you will be surprised how much dirt comes off onto the towel. I repeat until no more dirt comes off. You can remove the tuners to do this, but if you are careful it isn't necessary, you won't get oil into the wood. I'm guessing the tuners are fine and just need lubrication -- about once every 50 years or so..............

[MikeEdgerton]

Check out Paul Hostetter's excellent tuner page (http://www.lutherie.net/tuner.maintenance.html).

[jacksond1]

I'm going to try to treat the existing tuners as suggested and see how that goes.

You have all been very helpful and if it not too much to ask, I'd appreciate some additional advice/suggestions from such a helpful crew:

1. I played with my church band last week (using a terrible mic into the mixer and could not hear a thing I was playing). We are in a small corner and do not see how using the best mic or mix would prevent other instruments/vocals from significantly bleeding into my mic).
After reading tons of excellent posts on this site, I am thinking of going with the JJB external pickup running it through a used Yamaha AG-Stomp (an old 4 button I bought for guitar) then into the mixer. Anyone opposed to this or have other suggestions?

2. Also, does anyone make a cast (or other) tailpiece with a button built on it? Or is there a way to attach a button by just drilling out the just the tailpiece and adding one? My goal is to not have to drill a hole in the instrument or run a cord under the current cloud tailpiece?

Thanks again to all for sharing your time and expertise!

[houseworker]

You'll get the best advice on the pickup by starting a new thread in the 'Equipment' section. That'd make sure that the experts spot your query.

[Timbofood]

Rawhide shoelace through the little "wrinkle" where the cloud top stops when you slide it on. No holes, maintain originality, no greater expense.
Sorry, can't offer any help with the pickup aspect, someone will.
Cool to have a nice piece of family history!

[MikeEdgerton]

With regards to the Strap button take a look at this (http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?30705-No-strap-button-no-problem) thread. Two methods. Your mandolin isn't original now, and isn't going to be if you add a pickup. I'd go for the added button myself.

[mrmando]

The JJB pickup sounds like it will work. They're similar to K&K pickups, but cheaper and without the name recognition.

Couldn't find a cast tailpiece with a cast-in-place endpin. You could use one of these and run a rawhide loop through the little channel next to the string hooks, which is apparently what that channel is for: http://www.amazon.com/Golden-Gate-M-134-Scalloped-Tailpiece/dp/B005N52D4I/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1464022812&sr=1-3-fkmr0&keywords=mandolin+scallop+tailpiece