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mandodan22
Mar-04-2004, 12:38pm
Hi guy's
This may be a dumb question, but I know you guy's can help .
I have a new mando that I really like,It has a radiused fretboard and a standard flat top bridge.Is this sort of defeating the purpose on the fretboard?
Also same question concerning the nut,
Should it be cut with some sort of radius? [if possible]
And also any advice on setup would be apprecieated,

John Flynn
Mar-04-2004, 12:42pm
Yes, all need to be the same radius, or in the case of a compound radius, they need to be compatible with the compound pregression. I am curious: What is the type/history of your mando that you wound up with the configuration you have?

Lee
Mar-04-2004, 12:50pm
I've seen a Collings MTs with a radiused fretboard, nut, and bridge. I've seen a BRW with a radiused fretboard, nut, and flat bridge. The explanation given was that the depth of the string grooves was enough to give enough "radius" to the strings.

Scotti Adams
Mar-04-2004, 1:03pm
yes...the bridge saddle and nut notches can be cut to the proper depth to accomodate the radius of the fingerboard....you can put the curve on those 2 items but to me its more of a visual effect...much simpler to just cut the notches..to each his own with each builder..

mandodan22
Mar-04-2004, 3:54pm
Thanks for the help guys.
This is a brand new instrument that I had Allen Jones build
and so far I'm really pleased with it.
I had a more knowlegable player say after playing mine awhile that the radius fretboard on mine didnt seem to make much of a difference ,
That got me to thinking about other radiused instruments I've
seen.
MandoJohnny what do you mean by being compatible with the compound radius ? Because mine is a compound radius, but I'm not sure of the actual radius.
My string slots are not cut any deeper than they would be for a flat board, so common sense tells me I'm not getting the advantage of the radius.
any advice?

Lee
Mar-04-2004, 4:13pm
I did some math to determine how much lower the G & E strings would need to be, compared to the A & D, strings to provide a 10" radius and the numbers were really really really tiny.

mandodan22
Mar-04-2004, 4:16pm
What would you suggest Lee?

John Flynn
Mar-04-2004, 4:29pm
The way I understand it, (no expert here) on a compound radius, the radius changes as you go down the neck. So, on the Rigel, it is 9.5" at the nut, flattening out to 16" at the end of the fretboard, so the bridge is probably about 20" or 22." So the radius of the nut and the bridge needs be compatible with the compound formula.

mandodan22
Mar-04-2004, 4:41pm
OK I see what you're saying.
So do I have to be concerned with intonation problems If I cut my g and e slots? Also should those slots be cut even or with the outer slots a little deeper still?