IV Kit Q1: Plate Thickness

[kvk]

Okay, Got my IV mando kit. Here's my first of what may be many questions.

To initially evaluate what I'd have to do on thickness, I did messured just the widest part. I made a U jig and put a depth gauge on it to messure the wood. I also messured the thickness of the Smirnoff plans. I measure at six points, three on each side, 1/2" from edge, thinnest point, and 1" from center line.

For the back I got (all messurements .xxx")--

Plans Wood
.156 .185
.117 .165
.226 .190
.226 .192
.117 .162
.156 .172

For the top I got--

Plans Wood

.171 .180
.117 .160
.218 .210
.218 .195
.117 .150
.171 .180

Questions:

1: the specs I'm getting from the book on thickness, are they reasonable?

2: The top is pretty close, being that the rim is glued on it and the F holes are cut and the wood is softer (spruce), I can't think I could plane or gouge it without just wrecking it. Do you think I should just sand it a bit on the inside to even it up and call it done?

3: The back spec looks like it needs to be a little thinner. I do have a couple gauges but no finger plane. I have to decide whether to-- a) just leave it, b) just sand c) use the gouge and then sand, d) spring $50 for a finger plane and scrapers

Anything else I should be asking about thickness?

Thanx in advance for any helpful answers,

Ken

[sunburst]

I think you should get some scrapers. They cost less than finger planes, and that would be a lot of sanding.
You don't need to remove enough wood to be worth buying finger planes for this instrument.

[grandmainger]

I have a different question about thickness (I haven't got my it yet, should be a few days to get to London)...
Set the scene: No (as in zero, zilch, nought) building experience, as a player, I'm more of a quiet picker, hence tone is more important than volume...

Question: If I intend to only use medium-gauge strings. can I make the top thinner?

I don't actually need to do this, but the (great!) Arches flat-top I got recently came with a recommendation from Chris that I only use medium strings, and it sounds great. I understand that a flat-top is less resistant than an archtop to bridge pressure of course, but what about top thickness? Presumably, the top will resonate better if it's thinner? Am I mistaken? Should I wait for the Siminoff book to arrive with the kit before asking silly questions? Can you tell I'm quite excited about my first building experience http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/laugh.gif #?

Germain

[Stephanie Reiser]

thanks germain for the tutorial

[sunburst]

Germain,
Thinner is not necessarily better. There is some optimal thickness that will give you the best mass to stiffness ratio, and be strong enough for the instrument.
That thickness depends on the wood in the top, the wood in the back, the type of construction used, the scale length, ... etc ... etc ...
It takes lots of experience to even get close by design. Getting close by accident is more common, it seems to me.

I can't tell you how thick your top needs to be, but, If you go by the Siminoff book and you have a good piece of spruce, you can probably go a little thinner.

[grandmainger]

Thanks John. I'll do my reading. This whole thing is a bit scary, but I'm glad I have you lot to ask for advice!
http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif