Mandolin bridge................

[Strange1]

A question I should know the answer to, but don't. When an offset mandolin bridge is positioned properly, are the offsets farther away from the nut on the G and A strings? I have 2 lefthanded mandolins and the bridges are notched opposite.One or the other has got to be wrong Of course if you turn it around the notches will still be the same.. thanks

Jack

[mandroid]

the G pair #should be wider apart than the E pair, and notch width to #string guage.[broad generalization]offset Of Es is right at the front edge, 2(0-12fret distance) though actual intonation is a variable specific to actual stringset, #bridge height, etc.
Real tech setup will help.
as a lefty will need a lefty specific bridge as Mine [RH] would be different if flipped, they are not symmetrical.

[Strange1]

Thanks for the reply. I'm still a bit confused tho. when you sight down the top of the bridge from the side. the 2 offsets for the 'g' and 'a' strings are closer to the nut and the 'd' and 'e' offsets are closer to the bridge is this correct. You see I purch a LH mandolin and wondered if they just used a RH bridge blank and notched it for the strings. I have a converted RH mandolin that I had a luthier make a new nut and bridge and the offsets are opposite Hope this makes sense. thanks again

Jack

[Baron Collins-Hill]

although i dont know the answer i can probably reword the question. if i am correct, you a re asking if, when you convert a right handed mandolin to a left handed mndolin, do you turn the bridge around (so the treble side is now the bass side and vise-versa). i think you would turn it around, yes, and you also need to re-slot the bridge and the nut because the g strings are farther apart then the e strings.

does this clear anything up, or make it worse?

[Baron Collins-Hill]

or wait, if you turn the bridge around, you wont need to re slot it. i think... have you seen my stapler?

[mandroid]

the #E should be at 13 7/8 from the nut. the D will be towards the fretboard edge too, not, nessisarily to the same extent,about a 16th" #back or so as I recall (old issue of mando-world-news gave a dimensioned sketch )
laying a straight edge #on my '21 A bridge is showing that too. G is not along the rear of the bridge, a bit more foreward , still back of a line thru the centers of the adjusting posts.

a left-hand bridge may need to be aquired.

[Strange1]

I really DO appreciate all this help (I don't deserve it )but am still confused. #Wish I could draw a pic. #I get the part about the little notches being bigger for G string however if you turn the bridge end for end it will still have the #offsets are the same. # Now if you could turn the bridge unside down it would make the notches diff (I'm beginning to sound like a banjo player) http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif #I may have to switch the bridges on my mandolins and see if it changes the ultimate tuning. #However the new mandolin wasn't cheap (for me) and should have the proper bridge on it, don't ya think?

Jack http://www.mandolincafe.net/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/mandosmiley.gif

[mandroid]

Intonation is about pitch, not looks, actually.
the notes as you play them up the string #should be accurate, use your electronic tuner. when E string 3rd fret says g #on the tuner , it should say g on the 15th fret too and the more exactly an #octave different, the better.
open G and 12 fret G; 2nd fret a 14fret a , etc.
if 2nd octaves are all too sharp, bridge may be #just too close to the 12th fret. so 2nd octave 1/2 length is too #short.

setup is commonly an after sale technical job for most mass produced instruments.
the whole thing settles in awhile and then you have someone skilled, adjust the details down to better function.
3K$ mandolin still needed the bridge arch cut to match the fingerboard arch and the fret ends polished and rounded better nut slots filed a bit , Now , Its how it should be.

[Strange1]

Exactly. At the 12th fret a couple of strings are sharp and a couple are flat. That is why I think it is a RH bridge on a LH mandolin. Am getting in touch with mfg. Thanks anyway[B]

[Chris Baird]

The e strings should be closest to the nut and the g furthest away. Most bridges have no compensation for the e-string, no bevel on the leading edge. A left handed bridge would have to be made custom as you can't just turn a standard bridge around.

[Strange1]

Ok, I'm down to the nitty gritty now. Does anyone know where I can buy or have made a left-handed mandolin bridge for an arch top "f" mandolin? Thanks

Jack

[TommyK]

... #Wish I could draw a pic....
Let me see if I can help
nut v v saddle
e===|===
a====|== RH
d===|===
g====|==

g====|==
d===|=== LH?
a====|==
e===|===

[Chris Baird]

Send a private message to f5journal. He makes reproduction bridges and can probably make you a lefty.