Harmony 410

[JohnM2001]

Drug this one out of the closet tonight, apparently a refin Harmony 410 I got from eBay a few years back for $100, numbers inside say 0049H410. Does the 49 signify the year 1949?

See pic of bridge, bottom ends don't touch the body, it's either in the wrong place (positioned right in middle of F holes), or not the original bridge. As you can see, the height adjustment wheels were removed, not sure why, other than it was too high with them. At its present position, the intonation is perfect. Picked up a generic archtop adjustable bridge off eBay, but that's even higher, even with its wheel removed. Any ideas on a replacement bridge, or maybe some judicious sanding on the bottom of this one to make it fit the archtop better, as the string height and action are both OK? Should there be string slots in the white saddle material? There don't seem to be any, and the strings seem to shift a bit. Not a bad sound for a beater mando, stays in tune too, but maybe could sound better with a better fitting bridge? Should probably shift it a bit to the treble side to even out the string spacing from the ends.

[multidon]

That is a jury rigged bridge at best. I doubt it's original, which was probably lost at sometime in its life. Not sure what these had but it may have been one piece. Obviously no attempt has been made to fit it at all and yes the bridge saddle should have properly cut string slots. There is a lot wrong with it. It is an inexpensive instrument but deserves better I think. I would take it to a luthier to have a proper bridge fitted. It would be 50 or 60 bucks well spent. You are on the right track with sanding for the bridge feet but this is not a job for a do it yourself guy. Should be done by someone who knows how to do it right. Plus you need some specialized tools. The bridge slots require precisely gauged files. Buying a set of those would exceed the value of the instrument. Plus you have to know exactly what the slot spacing should be. And there's the whole non adjustability missing wheels issue. I would get it to a luthier if it's worth owning at all. Add another 50 or 60 bucks for fresh strings and a set up and you could have a nice player there. Safe to say it's not living up to its potential as it is.

I know that you must be thinking, why should I put more money into it than it cost in the first place? The answer is that the person who did the refin doesn't seem to know much if anything about instrument restoration. The bridge is proof of that. Pretty common situation on the Bay.

[bart mcneil]

Check the neck/body relationship and see if there is any indication of movement in the neck joint. It looks like there might have been some as the present bridge is useless. Though you might be able to sand it down to where it works,but it won't be adjustable.

Regarding the bridge. Estimate the desired height of the bridge and carve one out of scrap wood. Lower, of course, than the present bridge in the photograph. You should get it to work. See FRETS.COM for clear instructions on bridge fitting. There is nothing wrong with a non-adjustable bridge if it is the right height.

I build test bridges out of Popsicle sticks gluing two or three together and shaping a bridge out of them for just such a situation. It takes just a few minutes and you can't argue with the cost. and by the way these can be permanent bridges if you are ssatisfied with the heoight

[JohnM2001]

Thanks guys. Found this pic of a Monterey mando, looks like they came with the longer adjustable bridges, much like the one I got off eBay, maybe my local luthier can figure something out. Also shown are 2 ebay Monterey pics, although the striped one is labeled as an F47 model. 127101

[multidon]

Regarding the number in your Harmony the 49 has nothing to do with the date. It is simply a random factory batch number. The part after the H is the model number. There is sometimes a date of manufacture stamp somewhere else in the instrument, smaller and harder to see. Sometimes there is an F or an S indicating first or second half of the year, along with the year and made in USA. Sometimes this stamp is missing and in that case you have only a broad range of years going by the appearance. The Harmony Monterey pictures you found with the stripes are likely from the sixties with laminated wood construction. Yours looks like it could be older than that and possibly solid wood. Maybe a birch top over mahogany back and sides. A proper new bridge and set up, along with a careful evaluation of the neck joint (a known weak point) is in order.

[acousticphd]

Thanks guys. Found this pic of a Monterey mando, looks like they came with the longer adjustable bridges, much like the one I got off eBay, maybe my local luthier can figure something out. Also shown are 2 ebay Monterey pics, although the striped one is labeled as an F47 model. 127101


Harmony instruments have (usually) a 3-character date code, eg, F47 means Fall, 1947; S-62 means summer '62 (Sometimes there is also a dash). F47 is NOT a model number; it's a date code but this is often confused in online ads/descriptions.

It is not that unusual to see adjustable bridges on old "cheapo" instrument like this with the threaded adjustors removed, in order to lower action. If you look carefully at the picture of the left-hand instrument you found, you will notice that the adjusting wheels have been removed, and replaced *above* the saddle (ie, they are serving no purpose), in order to drop the saddle as far as possible.

Harmonies notoriously had low bridges, so you will need to file or sand a lot of material off both foot and saddle of a replacement. What I would do first is make some measurements and judgements about how much work (wood removed) is necessary to get your replacement bridge to the proper height. Whether the current or the new bridge, you will have to fit the foot to the top. The question will be whether you can take away enough of the saddle without weakening it too much. You might just try removing the thumbwheel adjusters of your replacement, and see where you are; maybe after slotting you will be in the ballpark.

[MikeEdgerton]

Harmony instruments have (usually) a 3-character date code, eg, F47 means Fall, 1947; S-62 means summer '62 (Sometimes there is also a dash).

Except that's wrong. For years we thought it meant Fall and Summer. A few years back an old timer that had worked at Harmony explained that it stood for First and Second as in First half and Second half of the year. If I recall the plant shut down for maintenance or something between the two time periods.