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Boilline78
Apr-02-2014, 10:33pm
I have recently purchased a used Kentucky KM-675. The peninsula seems to get in the way of my playing. I have read and researched that it's fairly common practice to "scoop" the peninsula. Here's my question. Have any of you attempted to do this yourself? I think that I could possibly handle this procedure. I have the tools (rat tail files, sharp chisels, sanding blocks and such). However I do not have the tool to remove the frets. I don't know maybe I'm being overly ambitious here. Thoughts?

Marty Jacobson
Apr-02-2014, 10:53pm
Cool tutorial from John Hamlett (sunburst): http://hamlettinstruments.com/repair-services/mandolin-fingerboard-extender-scoop

You don't need to be especially careful removing the frets because you will be removing the surrounding wood anyway. Just pull them with snub-nose wire cutters, grind them down a little if you have a spare set and don't mind grinding them.

Boilline78
Apr-02-2014, 11:02pm
Wow , great link! I may decide to take this on. I don't have to worry about the binding popping when removing the frets? When I use the chisels I imagine I would want to work at and angle from the binding to the center to avoid chipping out. Also considering the grain in the process.

Ron McMillan
Apr-03-2014, 12:00am
Another fine tutorial (http://frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/Technique/Mandolin/DropTongue/droptongue.html) from Frets.com

I simply printed out the photographs from this one and gave them to a luthier in Bangkok, Thailand - and he did a great job on my F5

Michael Lewis
Apr-03-2014, 1:31am
Having done this more than once I can recommend using the Dremel with a router base for removing the bulk of the material, especially the binding. Using just a chisel is significantly more of a challenge in more ways than one. Making the scoop flat and even, making an even edge on the binding, and the amount of time required.

If you have a Dremel with router base you can cut between the frets to remove most of the material and break out the frets and their little islands off the fingerboard. You would still need to file or sand the surface flat. I suggest starting at the far end and 'chewing' the fingerboard toward the neck, to provide support for the Dremel and keep an even depth of cut. You will have to form the radius at the end of the scoop by hand (files, gouge, scraper, etc.).

Boilline78
Apr-03-2014, 8:03am
Yeah yeah, good idea! I think this is the way I'll go. What type and size bit did you use?