PDA

View Full Version : Forming parts for rims



buckhorn
Mar-26-2014, 9:25am
It has become pretty easy for me forming parts for rims and I would like to pass on some tips for those just starting out..I soppose the biggest tip is using medium heat if you are using a pipe to form and use as little water as possible to get steam going..I use a spray bottle to mist and keep it handy to avoid scorching..this really helps on highly figured wood and cuts down on splits and cracks....as you're bending, go slowly and sometimes it's good to allow pieces to cool a little before completeing..this allows the wood to stretch back a little..when forming for around blocks and points, it is okay to sand the ribs a little thinner to make tighter bends..my ribs start out about .080 but sometimes I get down to .050 for the tight radiuses..as other people have said, it's okay because the block and point material takes up the support.. now, I have taken 2x6material and cut forms that I use to clamp parts in while they are drying..when dry, these parts are pretty much stable and don't move much..when it comes time to glue the parts together, I try to match them to the forms and if off a little,I clamp them into the forms again after a little mist and heat..when they dry in the forms they are ready to glue the blocks and points..I try to sand those to fit the ribs without any cracks at the seams...I glue in stages starting with the 'S' piece and head block, then on to the scroll piece...next,I glue the piece between the points to the 'S' piece with the second point....then I start back with the tail block and finally glue up the first point...I use wood clamps instead of center spanners because I get better control and a tighter clamping to the form......some might have different methods , but this works wonderfully for me and I hope it helps others ........Keith117309

buckhorn
Mar-26-2014, 9:29am
here are a few p\more photos....117311117311117311

buckhorn
Mar-26-2014, 9:31am
last photo.....117312

Tommcgtx
Mar-26-2014, 9:42am
Thanks! I always pay very close attention to stuff like this. I just recieved my first set of wood, with extra sides to practice bending. I still have some tools to buy, and I have to make a bender, but I'm taking my time.

Bluetickhound
Mar-26-2014, 9:43am
This is exactly.the stage I am at right now so I really appreciate the timliness of this thread!

tdnate
Mar-26-2014, 12:52pm
Probably a dumb beginners question but do you cut the inside forms less the thickness of the sides, or just use the cut piece minus the kerf of the blade that cut it?

Bluetickhound
Mar-26-2014, 1:19pm
Cut it to the ID of the sides... the kerfing will be glued in laer in the process, after the rim (or ribs, if you prefer) and point blocks are set in place and glued up.

buckhorn
Mar-27-2014, 7:21am
with making the forms, I cut the inside of the forms just slightly larger then the original Siminoff templelet... I used 1/2in baltic burch plywood doubled to make the thickness 1 inch...that gives ample support when clamping the rib pieces in place ...several 3/4 in. holes were drilled through at locations where clamps will exert pressure where needed...I also leave the completed rims in the forms when glueing the kerfing...if you try to attach the kerfing outside the forms, the rim will more then likely relax--in bad ways-especially at the first bout........