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Thread: Any suggestions for my Ireland trip?

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    Mandolindian rgray's Avatar
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    Default Any suggestions for my Ireland trip?

    In just over a week my wife and I head over to Ireland for our 30th anniversary and will be spending a couple days each in Galway, Doolin, Dingle, and Kinsale (and nearby points of interest). Any suggestions for that perfect session location, pub, tourist site, etc.?

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    Default Re: Any suggestions for my Ireland trip?

    The Small Bridge Pub in Dingle was, by far, the best trad music we encountered on a very similar trip a couple of years ago. Don't miss it. Other than that, if you see fellow travelers enjoying the same music as you, ask them where else they might suggest you go. We found it was pretty hit and miss, mostly miss.

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    Registered User mandotool's Avatar
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    Default Re: Any suggestions for my Ireland trip?

    Didn't make it to dingle but very much liked the seisiun at The Crane Bar in Galway and also McGann's in Doolin..
    we took the ferry from Galway to Inis Mór ...and then from there the ferry to Doolin.
    If you have not seen the movie "Man of Aran"1934...not to be missed..interesting back story to it as well..epic.
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    Martin Stillion mrmando's Avatar
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    Default Re: Any suggestions for my Ireland trip?

    Second the Crane Bar in Galway. I also always recommend a visit to Paul Doyle's shop, 38A Dominick St., if you like talking to luthiers.
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    Registered User Sandy Beckler's Avatar
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    Default Re: Any suggestions for my Ireland trip?

    It seems that I recall a similar post sometime back, and the recollection I came away with was that some of us here in the states have this misconception that ITM, weather it be pubs, sessions / seisiuns (be careful there...see another post related to this subject) or festivals...are on every corner. Much to the contrary...you have to remember we here in the states have a horrible reputation for peddling rubbish to other countries...i.e. Rap (being the most glaring example) I too am entertaining thoughts of a pilgrimage to the homeland in the near future and hope to see some true Irish Traditional Music, the type I think of when I think of Ireland. The upshot is that you have to look hard to find it.

    Quote Originally Posted by rgray View Post
    In just over a week my wife and I head over to Ireland for our 30th anniversary and will be spending a couple days each in Galway, Doolin, Dingle, and Kinsale (and nearby points of interest). Any suggestions for that perfect session location, pub, tourist site, etc.?

  6. #6

    Default Re: Any suggestions for my Ireland trip?

    I found it was a lot easier to find the current MTV play list than ITM when I was over there. Plus, a lot of the ITM was kinda tourist-y when we did find it. I love the Uilleann pipes, for instance, and the only place I heard them played was at the Yellow Pub in Dingle. Funny thing, though, was at the same pub, we ran into a guy from Baltimore who had taken second place in a Bhodhran competition, which I imagine was pretty prestigious. We saw this same guy three times, sitting in with groups in various towns. I remember he looked a lot like Wallace Shawn with a drum, but he was well received.

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    Unfamous String Buster Beanzy's Avatar
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    Default Re: Any suggestions for my Ireland trip?

    http://comhaltas.ie/locations/

    Select a Province (Munster for the part between County Clare and Kerry then Connacht for the Galway bit)

    You'll get contact details for people who are core to the local traditional music life in each town/village.
    Many of the regular sessions won't be in pubs, they'll be in houses, village halls and dedicated Comhaltas halls.
    That's the proper 'core' stuff going on in terms of traditional music.
    Some pub sessions will be good, but the sessions focussing on music and dance across all generations will be in drier environments.
    Eoin



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    Innocent Bystander JeffD's Avatar
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    Default Re: Any suggestions for my Ireland trip?

    Now this is back in the 80s. I played in some pubs in Galway Bay, but I played mostly country music. I played IT in Dublin, on Grafton St., busking with some folks I met, and I tried to play in O'Donoghues in Dublin, but it was so jammed I couldn't even take out my mandolin without bumping into someone. Claustraphobic.
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    Default Re: Any suggestions for my Ireland trip?

    Well worth heading north from Galway up the Connemara coast as far as the Killary (only Fjord in Ireland) you can stop of in Roundstone on the way and visit Malachy Bodrahn's shop (not just Bodrahns my any means). You can also visit the Alcock and Brown landing site (first transatlantic flight) and the site of the Marconi Wireless station. If you have time continue North from Killary through the Delphi Valley and on through the stunning Doolough pass to Westport. Westport has a good Trad. Scene going on with lots of sessions every night. Matt Molloy's is worth a visit (Matt's one of the Chieftains).

    Heading south from Galway visit Tom Cussen at Clareen Banjo at Clarinbridge. Last time I was past he had a wall full of teens and twenties Gibson Mandolins and generously put up with me mangling reels and hornpipes on them for an hour!

    Neil

  10. #10

    Default Re: Any suggestions for my Ireland trip?

    Quote Originally Posted by NAS View Post
    Well worth heading north from Galway up the Connemara coast as far as the Killary (only Fjord in Ireland) you can stop of in Roundstone on the way and visit Malachy Bodrahn's shop (not just Bodrahns my any means). You can also visit the Alcock and Brown landing site (first transatlantic flight) and the site of the Marconi Wireless station. If you have time continue North from Killary through the Delphi Valley and on through the stunning Doolough pass to Westport. Westport has a good Trad. Scene going on with lots of sessions every night. Matt Molloy's is worth a visit (Matt's one of the Chieftains).

    Heading south from Galway visit Tom Cussen at Clareen Banjo at Clarinbridge. Last time I was past he had a wall full of teens and twenties Gibson Mandolins and generously put up with me mangling reels and hornpipes on them for an hour!

    Neil
    We did this. It was amazing, so keep your camera ready. Bought a drum from Malachy, too. Didn't get to Westport, however. Next trip...

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    Mandolindian rgray's Avatar
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    Default Re: Any suggestions for my Ireland trip?

    Quote Originally Posted by NAS View Post
    Well worth heading north from Galway up the Connemara coast as far as the Killary (only Fjord in Ireland) you can stop of in Roundstone on the way and visit Malachy Bodrahn's shop (not just Bodrahns my any means). You can also visit the Alcock and Brown landing site (first transatlantic flight) and the site of the Marconi Wireless station. If you have time continue North from Killary through the Delphi Valley and on through the stunning Doolough pass to Westport. Westport has a good Trad. Scene going on with lots of sessions every night. Matt Molloy's is worth a visit (Matt's one of the Chieftains).

    Heading south from Galway visit Tom Cussen at Clareen Banjo at Clarinbridge. Last time I was past he had a wall full of teens and twenties Gibson Mandolins and generously put up with me mangling reels and hornpipes on them for an hour!

    Neil
    Great tips that I will be looking to use. Will be on the lookout for the Small Bridge, Crane Bar and McGann's. Instrument shops are always a fun experience. Roundstone and Clarinbridge are already within our planned travel range but Westport might be a stretch. As for sessions, not looking to join in. Lack of a mandolin is the obvious excuse but lack of talent would be the real reason. Just hoping to sit back, enjoy a meal and pint, and listen to some good music.

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    Registered User mikeyes's Avatar
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    Default Re: Any suggestions for my Ireland trip?

    The Small Bridge (the sign says An Droicead Beag - Small Bridge) in dingle has good music every night but if you want to play in a session, go to John Benny's or the Marina on the strand, Tommy O'Sullivan's place or to O'Flaherty's in Dingle. Dingle is very small and everyone knows where these pubs are or you can look them up on the net. If I were taking your trip, I'd spend the majority of it in Dingle and make day trips. Besides the places I mention there are other pubs with sessions and a huge number of musicians in the town, many All Ireland winners. The Begley family is there along with a number of well known pipers. You can't walk down the street without seeing a well known musician.

    Doolin has two good places to session in, but I liked McCann's the best, in fact we stay there each time we go to Doolin. Galway city is a terrific place to visit. It has a university, a vibrant night life and a lot of musicians but is harder to get around.

    Don't forget Ennis, it is only 17 miles from Shannon and it has a great ITM culture. Limerick City does too, but it has the same problems as Galway City and sessions are harder to find on the fly.

    Every time we go to Ireland we stay in Dingle and day trip. YOu can reach a lot of Ireland in a few hours and still be back for the night life. We usually stay at John Benny's, but there are plenty of good places to stay there. We stay at B&B's in Galway City and McCann's in Doolin.

    Have a great trip!

    Mike Keyes

    ps, Check my web site www.mikekeyes.com for a report on our 2007 trip to Dingle.

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    Mandolindian rgray's Avatar
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    Default Re: Any suggestions for my Ireland trip?

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeyes View Post
    -snip- Have a great trip!

    Mike Keyes

    ps, Check my web site www.mikekeyes.com for a report on our 2007 trip to Dingle.
    Great report on your site. Other than passing through Shannon several times on my way to and from the desert, this will be our first time in Ireland. We selected the general area and then arranged for a rental car and 2-day stays at various B&Bs to use as basecamp. I don't expect to spend every night in a pub but for all I know, it may turn out that way.

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    Registered User mikeyes's Avatar
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    Default Re: Any suggestions for my Ireland trip?

    Bob,

    I made that same trip myself but only saw the airport courtesy of Uncle Sam. Later on I realized that the Shannon airport is the same size as the Appleton, WI airport with the same convenience that a small airport has. You will enjoy the trip, just remember to drive on the left.

    Mike

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    Default Re: Any suggestions for my Ireland trip?

    We were there for the Flaugh Nua (sp?) trad festival last May in Ennis, and wow was it great craic. Perhaps you will be there when this festival is going on? Ennis has all kinds of great pubs and great players. It's a very nice little town. I suggest O'Keefe's and Brogan's. Also the music store down the street from Brogan's (cant think of the name) has a vast collection of trad Irish cd's for sale and some nice instruments too.

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    Mandolindian rgray's Avatar
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    Default Re: Any suggestions for my Ireland trip?

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeyes View Post
    Bob,

    I made that same trip myself but only saw the airport courtesy of Uncle Sam. Later on I realized that the Shannon airport is the same size as the Appleton, WI airport with the same convenience that a small airport has. You will enjoy the trip, just remember to drive on the left.

    Mike
    It was only the airport every time for me as well. Quick layover for a crew change and a couple hundred US military in uniform head to the airport pub for a Guinness. For some reason it always tasted better on the return trip.

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    Default Re: Any suggestions for my Ireland trip?

    If you're there for the Fleadh Nua in Ennis you'll have all the ITM - and more - that you ever dreamed of...

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    Martin Stillion mrmando's Avatar
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    Default Re: Any suggestions for my Ireland trip?

    Westport is pretty amazing. Had a lot of fun there without even going to Molloy's very much. There's always live music at Molloy's, but often it's touring bands. I must have caught a bit of a traditional seisun there, but mostly what I recall is that it's wall-to-wall people, and since I'm ever so slightly claustrophobic I just couldn't hack it. I had a great time sitting in with whistle wizard Olcan Masterson at another pub a couple of blocks away ... the Clock Tavern if memory serves. Also had fun sitting in with some local fellows at Cobblers Bar. Near Westport in Lecanvey there's good craic to be had at Campbell's, where fiddler Dan Delany leads a fantastic weekly seisun.

    More info on Westport pubs here:
    http://www.westportpartyplanners.com/pubs.asp
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    Registered User mikeyes's Avatar
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    Default Re: Any suggestions for my Ireland trip?

    Custy's is the music store in Ennis. You have to go there and find the session for that night. www.custysmusic.com

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    Default Re: Any suggestions for my Ireland trip?

    Quote Originally Posted by Sandy Beckler View Post
    It seems that I recall a similar post sometime back, and the recollection I came away with was that some of us here in the states have this misconception that ITM, weather it be pubs, sessions / seisiuns (be careful there...see another post related to this subject) or festivals...are on every corner. Much to the contrary...you have to remember we here in the states have a horrible reputation for peddling rubbish to other countries...i.e. Rap (being the most glaring example) I too am entertaining thoughts of a pilgrimage to the homeland in the near future and hope to see some true Irish Traditional Music, the type I think of when I think of Ireland. The upshot is that you have to look hard to find it.
    I think this is a bit of a gross generalisation, it may well be the case in parts of the East and Midlands, but if you get out in to the West Traditional music is in good health, with an encouragingly high participation from the younger generation. It's a bit like saying Blue Grass jams are dead on the bassis of searching two blocks in New York!

    So head out West, visit Mayo, Galway, Sligo or Donegal and your sure to find some "authentic" traditional music.

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    Default Re: Any suggestions for my Ireland trip?

    The other thing that probably needs mentioning is that many real players seisiún (in rural areas and particularly Gaeltacht) run on Irish time i.e. my "local" seisiún when I'm home, does not really start to get going until 11 and then runs on into the early hours. I have seen many visitors from the US and elsewhere assume that as nothing is happening by 10:30 nothing will happen.

    You will find earlier seisiúns in the bigger towns such as Galway and Westport. There is also a nice beginners session run by http://www.dustybanjos.com/ in Galway

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    Unfamous String Buster Beanzy's Avatar
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    Default Re: Any suggestions for my Ireland trip?

    Eoin



    "Forget that anyone is listening to you and always listen to yourself" - Fryderyk Chopin

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    Registered User Francis J's Avatar
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    Default Re: Any suggestions for my Ireland trip?

    I live at the other side of Ireland to the west, where you're visiting, but I can tell you I've had many tourists tell me that they travelled all of the western seaboard without finding a trad session. The secret is ASK (several times and several people), and be prepared to stay up late. Despite the recession, people will be working/going to school/away at college, and this might limit weekday sessions. You will get lots of events that masquerade as sessions, such as "ballad sessions", which have a certain appeal if you're into headaches! It might be a good idea if you ask the same question on http://www.thesession.org/ . Ireland isn't awash with trad music, in fact the traditional music community is of a similar size, proportional to the general music community, as the bluegrass community is in USA. Have a great trip. if you find gold, you'll be in for a memorable trip. If you don't, enjoy the scenery, and don't be in too much of a hurry!

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    Default Re: Any suggestions for my Ireland trip?

    When you're travelling anywhere (including the States) always try to get to a town before the music shop shuts. The guys there usually know where to find music, dances etc, and will probably know what you're after.

    My wife and I had a few weeks travelling around the States in 1983 on our honeymoon, and I can tell you it worked every time.

    Of course, the snag is that there are fewer and fewer music or record stores left these days, but in general it's a good tip. Just wandering around hoping for the best might work, but the chances are that you might miss something good because you didn't know.
    David A. Gordon

  25. #25

    Default Re: Any suggestions for my Ireland trip?

    Ireland is amazing. I've been over twice.
    I was there last November. During our trip my girlfriend and I stayed a few nights in Doolin at the Sea View House. We hired the town taxi to take us up to the Cliffs of Moher, it was about a 10/15 min drive, then we walked down a little country rode back to town. It was wonderful.

    There are 3 pubs in Doolin and they're supposed to be THE place for trad sessions, unfortunately we went on the off season so there was no music.

    We hit a few pubs in Galway, Tig Coili always delivered good trad, and there's a GREAT chippery, Harry Fitz, right around the corner that had the best chips and curry in Ireland.

    If you were venturing into Northern Ireland I'd suggest you go to the Giant's Causeway, it's the most spectacular place I've ever been.

    Tig Coili Session
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    Galway Bay
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