Custom mandolin machines

[grandcanyonminstrel]

I was working away today and thought I'd pass on a little photo essay.

I regularly have to come up with tuning machines in non standard configurations. Here is a set for a 5 x 5 symmetric set for a ten string mandola (fan-dola) that I'm working on today. I've seen custom made Waverly machines in this configuration on an instrument, and a set for sale in the classifieds a while back. No matter who I've asked, or how many times I've called them up, every time they told me they don't exist and they won't make them for me. I've also heard that Schaller makes a European set in ten string configuration, but haven't been able to find them here.

I usually try to get Nicolo Alessi to custom build up a set for me, but that takes a bit of time to get them here and some patience while they are being made. Some days either I or the customer doesn't have the extra time, so here is one way that I work around it.

Most of the sub $80 tuning machines are pretty similar in design and function; they each have a tiny feature or two that separates them from the pack, but not much. Schallers have been my favorite for modifying, mainly because they are well tested and everything comes apart from the baseplate. They also come in standard and reverse gearing. That allows me a huge range of options, especially if I dissassemble them and flip the plates left and right. I've modified dozens of sets of Schallers like this over the years.

I generally prefer the F style machines, because their button shafts are smooth, unlike the ornate "a" style. That allows me to cut the lengths and not interrupt the design. You'll also notice that I changed out the buttons from the faux pearl to black.

For this set, I start with two sets, cut them up, and morph the two. Usually three sets get me two ten string sets. These were cut and butted together at the third screw hole from the top. If you look hard, you'll see a faint line, but the results are pretty good and can be done on the spot in a few hours with stock machines. Filing both halves at the same time in the vise makes for a pretty clean joint. Even if you are off a degree or two, it is balanced between both halves.

j.
www.condino.com

[Mike Black]

Very nice James! Thanks for sharing.

[grandcanyonminstrel]

Here are images of how they fit together on the on the headstock and the finished result. The headstock is still a bit rough and not true to perfect profile- today the fittings get installed and it gets strung up for a test run. After a week or two of playing and passing around among some great players for more perspective, the headstock and final neck profile will get smoothed out, then everything is torn down and "sent off to the paint department"...

j.
www.condino.com

[Geoff B]

That's pretty freakin cool man. Nice work!

[grandcanyonminstrel]

Oh yeah- the file handle is bloodwood and macassar ebony, sealed with CA glue and hit on the buffer with some red compound. You can get a great buffed out, shiny tool handle in about two minutes with that method. I've heard of a few folks who've done it for the entire finish on an instrument, but they are way tougher than me; anything more than an occaisional few drops of CA Glue sends me running from the room coughing and eyes all teared up....

When I worked in the mandolin factory, there was always someone having a near death experience from inhaling too many CA fumes every day at their bench- the "kicker" is even worse! I'll stick with the old school glues and finishes for my own instruments...

j.
www.condino.com

[sunburst]

Originally Posted by grandcanyonminstrel

"sent off to the paint department"...www.condino.com

Yep, mmhmmm...

Funny how many hats luthiers end up wearing...

[grandcanyonminstrel]

Here is a 6 x 4 model configuration from a couple of years ago with a ported headstock.

j.
www.condino.com

[Chris Keth]

Originally Posted by grandcanyonminstrel

When I worked in the mandolin factory, there was always someone having a near death experience from inhaling too many CA fumes every day at their bench- the "kicker" is even worse! I'll stick with the old school glues and finishes for my own instruments...

That zip-kicker is nasty stuff. I've heard some bad stories of people getting incredibly sick or outright dying who worked in prop shops out her in Hollywood where they use tons of the stuff and, in the past, tended to spray it rather than drop it and would inhale it quite a bit.

[sunburst]

I suspect CA and accelerator and among the culprits that have nearly deleted my sense of smell.

[grandcanyonminstrel]

Another one- 5 x 5 "a" style morphed Schaller machines with Waverly ebony buttons from around 2000 or 2001; ever so slight fanned frets visible from the asymmetric nut.

j.
www.condino.com

[billhay4]

Amazing work, James,
Bill

[tree]

Apologies up front if these are dumb questions.

What happens with the kerf? Those appear to match up without having had any material removed at all. Do you have to shift your cut the width of the kerf on one of the plates?

Could you file the ends with the plates folded over, like you do when planing boards for a rubbed glue joint?

Thanks for the aside on the file handle, that caught my eye for sure.

[grandcanyonminstrel]

Tree:

I shift the cut a bit on both halves of the two separate plates and then use the file to get it to the final specs. I use a pretty good magnifying light on all my benches for visual aid on almost everything these days ('still can't admit that my eyes are getting as old as the rest of me and going downhill fast...). If I aim for a tight fit under the glass, it is even better under the naked eye.

I've flipped the plates in the past, but today I got the best result with them side by side in the vise using a steady hand and a simple file.

To be honest, I'd much rather have them built elsewhere and spend my focus on different areas of the instrument, but necessity regularly takes me here, so I do what I can for the day's challenges..

j.