Mods to my new Gibson?

[J. Mark Lane]

Hi folks,

So, now that I've had my new Gibson Alan Bibey Signature Model for all of...a whole day, I'm already thinking about changing it. But I'm a little hesitant, given that this little baby cost a fair amount, and I would like it to retain its value.

So, questions:

1. How many people with Gibsons change out the tailpiece? Most of the ones I see have the traditional pressed metal Gibson tailpiece. But I've had luck improving tone (slightly) with a cast tailpiece on other instruments. And Allen now offers a cast tp that looks a lot like the standard Gibson item. Advice?

2. What about sanding the back of the neck? I've done this on all my other mandolins, but they were all relatively cheap (well, the Givens Legacy was not cheap, but it wasn't *this* expensive). How many Gibson players do this? And do you think it would reduce resale value?

3. This thing came with a pearl nut. What would be the likely effect if I put a bone nut on it instead?

4. I was also thinking of trying one of Red Henry's bridges, or the Tourtelotte? Thoughts?

Thanks for any help. I'm just a little shy about altering this beauty, but would like to (esp the sanding the neck thing).

Mark

[Scotti Adams]

..if it were me..I would just play it for awhile and see how it matures...I think you may be wanting to jump the gun on some of those things...if anything get a Bill James Tp and sand the finish off the neck if you feel you have to do something....

[Crowder]

Man, I'd seriously hate to spend that much cheese on a new mandolin only to think it needed a bunch of mods out of the box. Are you sure you're not just fiddling with it to be fiddling?

[bflat]

just play the thing

[J. Mark Lane]

Oh, you can be sure I'm playing it. My fingers are killing me.


But that's good advice, folks, and I appreciate it. I guess the only thing I was really seriously wondering about was sanding the neck. It has really increased my enjoyment of other instruments. But hey, I'm a'playin' it, so perhaps I'll just get used to it like it is.

Thanks.

[fatt-dad]

I never understood removing the finish off of a mandolin neck - but hey that's me (oh yeah, there's several other things I've never understood).

I've never understood replacement tailpieces. I just had a discussion with Dave Cohen on this matter (he studies the acoustics of mandolins) and he feels there is little to be gained by the special tailpieces. If I got it right, it has something to do with the extra mass, but I don't understand it, right? I never understood the real benefit of a tone guard, 'cause I mostly play in the house and hear, "can you play softer?" Now, when I go out and the dang ban)o is twanging that's another thing. (I never understood why we don't complain about those loud fiddles either.)

I don't understand. . . . . (got to have something to post about later).

f-d

[Gail Hester]

Mark, first of all let me tell you how much Gail and I enjoyed your big adventure and I think you made a good choice. #The following are just my opinions but that’s what you asked for.

1. #How many people with Gibsons change out the tailpiece? #

I’ve tried several Allen cast tailpieces and they are great. #We are presently using Bill James tailpieces on our mandolins but I wouldn’t change out the stock tailpiece on my Gibson MM for nothing. #

2. #What about sanding the back of the neck?

Some like it; I think it’s a fiddle thing. #I’d never buy a mandolin with the neck sanded, seems wrong to me. #I’ve played them both ways and I still scratch my head as to why someone would do that to a good mandolin (remember just my opinion). #You could compromise by deglossing it similar to a pool cue with fine steel wool. #You'd get the desired effect without removing the finish. #

3. #This thing came with a pearl nut. #What would be the likely effect if I put a bone nut on it instead?

Tone between bone and MOP is a wash, I have both but prefer the looks and sustain of real MOP. #

4. #I was also thinking of trying one of Red Henry's bridges, or the Tourtelotte? #Thoughts?

My favorite bridge is a Loar style made from Macassar Ebony. #There’s no harm in trying different bridges. #I would recommend reading Ken Cartwright’s article on bridge experiments if you have not.

That is an awesome mandolin you have, good luck and best wishes.

-Chuck Hester

[Bill Snyder]

1. If the holes on your chosen tailpiece line up with the Gibson tailpiece you could always change it back later. If the hole pattern is different I would have to think hard and long before I made any new holes to accomodate a new tailpiece.
2. I don't know what to tell you about sanding the neck. I think I would avoid that unless there is really a problem.
3. Nuts can be changed without too much trouble, but if the pearl nut is a good one why change it out?
4. I would change the bridge out without worrying about it. If you don't like it you can always put the original bridge back on. Old mandolins are sold with replacement bridges on them all the time with the original bridge in the case.

I would play it the way it is for at least a few weeks before I made any of the changes though. By then you may have changed your mind about some or all of the modifications.

[flairbzzt]

Bring it out this weekend and bang on it boy!

[Links]

I agree with Chuck Hester! I would not buy a mandolin that had the neck sanded or other fairly significant alterations. That's just me!

If you are going to keep it forever, do whatever makes you happy!

[sbarnes]

i don't understand the sanding the neck thing either.....
if i were in the market for a new(er) mandolin (which i am) and could afford one like yours (which i can't), i'd pass on one w/a sanded neck and continue looking.....
just my opinion
but in at least this case it would potentially reduce the value

[johnwalser]

Mark,
I think half the fun of playing mandolin is working to get "your" sound. I ended up even buying a scroll saw so I could make bridges and have a Dremel tool for making nuts and for putting in grooves for both. That said, I would "VERY" lightly sand neck until it is playable and hold off a couple of months before buying tailpiece. In the meantime I would "wail" on that puppy as hard and often as my wife would allow. I have three Allen tailpieces currently and am about to add a fourth for a mandolin I've had three months now. The Allen just seems to give me more sustain and deeper, richer tone.
Congrats on new toy!!
John

[mandroid]

Re neck unglossing: Very, very fine fine steel wool 00000 [more 0's the finer] is sorta like 400 + grit abrasive cloth may be more genile, and controll thickness of finish removed.
finely ground abrasive powder (lapidary supplys) and a damp cotton glove or cloth would be a gentle satinizing technique.

wearing spots thru it by playing for years is better.

[luckylarue]

My advice: Don't change a thing. You just got it. Give it time and don't mess with the mando's natural order of things. You have to get to know the instrument's sound and nuances. Wait at least 2-3 yrs. before any drastic cosmetic surgery. Take the Zen approach

[steve in tampa]

Seems to me like its kind of like taking your new wife to the beauty parlor right after the wedding! You chose her, accepted her for who she is, and now your saying she ain't right!

[Mandobar]

mark, please don't sand the neck of that mandolin.

[J. Mark Lane]

OK, guys, I'm with ya. The instrument doesn't need a thing. I'm just one of those people that's always futzin' with things. I'll let it be. Thanks.

[onlyagibsonisgoodenuff]

I've had a couple of mandolins where I've removed the finish from back of the neck, but when I got my varnished Fern, I kinda put it off. Varnish can be kinda sticky, but after a while I got to where I just don't notice it anymore. When it does get goey, I just clean it with a little water and a soft cloth, and back to normal.

I think my neck sanding days are over.

[G_Smolt]

Gotta chime in here..

If you are used to a sanded neck, and if that is what feels best to you, then by all means sand it.

If a cast TP has worked for you in the past, slap one on. Same with the nut/bridge combo.

Having said that, if you are concerned about the resale value of a "moddy" Gibson, remember that (most of the) folks who purchase used Gibsons seem to like their axes original.

If this is the one, and you ain't reselling...do what makes it for you.

[G_Smolt]

On same topic, but with additional info...

Might wanna read this before you go sandin' the back of that neck.

Take a look at the 4th paragraph in particular.

Bibey model

[J. Mark Lane]

Well, that's odd. The neck on mine is definitely finished glossy. I think it's time for a couple of questions to Gibson....Maybe they stopped making them that way...for a reason?

[krishna]

Mark,I'm not you, but if I were,I would not do anything to it for awhile.(I don't know about 2 years...).Changing the tailpeice if the holes match up is not a problem to switch back,and the same with the bridge.Is it just the LOOK of the nut that is bothering you? Others here would know more,but my understanding is that the two materials are so similar in hardness as to be the same. On the matter of sanding the neck,there are lots of people who love the feel of wood on their thumb as opposed to laquer or varnish.If you decide to try to degloss it with 0000 steel wool,be very carefull.It would be VERY easy to oversand any spot on the neck and go right through!...Kerry

[Michael Lewis]

Well Mark, as said before, it's all up to you what you do, but you have been given some good advice to leave it alone and just play the tar out of it. If you get a new tail piece you will want to try it, but if you do try it make sure you don't change any part of the mandolin. What do you do if the screw holes don't line up just perfectly? My advice is to either leave the original TP on or file the holes in the new one. Many years down the road the condition of this mandolin will be rather important, right down to the un-messed-with screw holes for the tail piece and the machines. Fitting bridges places your top at risk of scratches and dents, not done on purpose mind you, but just maybe it could happen (I know this). The less you do to your lovely new mandolin the better you will appreciate it years later. You are infatuated with it and want to do anything you can for it, but the best thing you can do is to play it and keep it clean, oh, and try to avoid heat and humidity extremes. It is what it is, and doesn't need to be changed. If you are thinking of sanding the neck contact Joe or Charlie about it first and discuss it with them.

Keep in mind that Gibson mandolins historically take a good bit of playing to mature. Let it happen, don't hurry it. You have one of the nicest and best mandolins available, learn to know it and let it thrill you. Let it inspire you to better playing.

Now, print out this discussion and read it about once a month for the next year.

[krishna]

Michael just gave you the best advice in that very last line. I'd do it !.(man, that's a hoot!)...Kerry

[goose 2]

I agree with Michael whole-heartedly. It does take those Gibsons some time to loosen up. It took 6 months of really steady playing to get my Master Model to sing. After 3 years of constant playing, it keeps getting better just as yours will. I have completely played all the finish off the neck and I do like it better without the finish on it but I too recommend that you play it off rather than sand it off. Your excitement over a new instrument is infectious. Makes me want to get a new one. . . Enjoy