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Thread: router bit for binding

  1. #1
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    I need advice on setting up my router to do the binding. I spent a harrowing time over the weekend routing the binding channel on the octave mandolin I am building using my Dremel with a StewMac attachment. I got the job done, but not as clean as I would like. I had to cut a bit by hand to avoid chipping into the grain. I have seen photos on the web showing how a regular old router can use a simple jig/guide built of wood, but I would like to know if bit size matters and if a certain type of bit is preferrable. I would assume that the larger in diameter the bit, the faster it moves and that should be a good thing--right?

    Thanks!

    Woody

  2. #2
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    Woody--I built that jig and used a carbide router bit--straight, 1/4", 1" cutter. It worked well, except in the scroll areas. Because the top is thicker and more slanted, I couldn't maintain the depth of cut, so I did those areas by hand. I suppose I could have raised the bit to compensate, but I didn't want to experiment at that point. Dudenbostel says to take multiple passes and don't try to cut the channel to full depth in one pass.
    Wisdom comes with age, but sometimes age comes alone

  3. #3

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    I use a 1/4 spiral down cut bit. I also score the demensions of the channel with a purfling cutter so that the chip out stops before it gets into the face. I do 2 passes that comes nearly up to the score mark. Then I do a few passes making micro adjustments and sneak up on the score mark. A bit that I think would work even better is one like the 1/4 sprial downcut but with a very slight acute angle to counteract the tendency to come out with a channel that is slightly greater than 90 degrees. I don't know if a bit like that exists.

  4. #4
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    Hey, thanks for the advice!

    This is what I needed!

    Woody

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