I'm not sure what you mean by "the size and shape of the final product is controlled by the old headstock." I think that perhaps it's best to grind away the existing one and putting on a new one. You could do this with a piece cut to size of the existing peghead and then route the binding channel or glue on a larger piece and trim to the edges with a jigsaw or even a coping saw and then rout the binding channel. Adding another layer over the top of the other one might not be the best idea as it could be a problem with the vertical needs of the tuners. If you are planning to add an inlay to the existing peghead, you run a serious risk of sanding it out and ruining it if you're not totally sure how thick the inlay material is. I am not an expert by any means but that is my opinion for what it's worth........ Stuart
Bernie, even with the case of repairing or re-veneering an old headstock, I still find it easier to remove the remains of the old veneer, glue a retangular piece of veneer to the head stock and trim it in place. With a thin veneer "overhang" you can just about trim it up with a razor knife and a selection of sanding blocks or even a dremel if you have one. I cut my own veneers from local ebony or "Cooktown Ironwood," so they tend to be a bit thicker then what's available commercially. When fitting a veneer I bevel the edge where it meets the nut slot for a tight fit against the nut and also pre-drill the opening for the trussrod pocket before I glue it to the headstock.
Here's an example of a back headstock veneer that I added to a customer's mandolin many moons ago...
I like the idea of cutting the outside perimeter of the front- or back plate with a knife -- but it must be pretty difficult to cut out the big scroll of headstock? Seems like you'd have to cut that from the backside and the edge of the headstock is beveled?
BTW, the thinnest ebony headstock overlay blanks that StewMac sells are 3/32" which I am sure is much too thick for cutting with a knife? I could sand it down to the desired thickness I suppose.
But more important I want to cut the headstock overlay to be smaller (by about 1/16") than the actual headstock all around the periphery so I can add binding without having to route it. I attached a diagram -- I'm not sure its clear enough to actually be helpful though.
Bernie
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Due to current budgetary restrictions the light at the end of the tunnel has been turned off -- sorry about the inconvenience.
I'm not sure what you mean by "the size and shape of the final product is controlled by the old headstock." I think that perhaps it's best to grind away the existing one and putting on a new one. You could do this with a piece cut to size of the existing peghead and then route the binding channel or glue on a larger piece and trim to the edges with a jigsaw or even a coping saw and then rout the binding channel. Adding another layer over the top of the other one might not be the best idea as it could be a problem with the vertical needs of the tuners. If you are planning to add an inlay to the existing peghead, you run a serious risk of sanding it out and ruining it if you're not totally sure how thick the inlay material is. I am not an expert by any means but that is my opinion for what it's worth........ Stuart
What I meant was the size old headstock (the neck) will determine the size of the new headstock overlay. I don't want to have to route it because iI don't have a router that could do it.
So my plan is to make a headstock cover plate (or headstock veneer) that is about 1/16" smaller (all around) than the actual neck headstock -- this will produce a binding channel without having to do any routing at all.
I do agree that I don't want to add an overlay on top of the old one. If I can get the old one off (which is damaged) off cleanly, in one piece I might automatically have a template -- but I think it will come off in several pieces.
Bernie
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Due to current budgetary restrictions the light at the end of the tunnel has been turned off -- sorry about the inconvenience.
Bernie, since I don't like the process of cutting binding slots in F5-shaped head stocks, I cut the overlay to shape before gluing it to the still-rectangular (more or less) head stock then cut the head stock to leave a binding slot. That way, I can use a band saw and spindle sander to cut the overlay, along with hand tools in the tight places.
To fit an overlay to an already-shaped head stock, I would cut the overlay to rough shape and then index it to the head stock with dowels in the tuner holes or something, anything to make sure it goes back in the exact same position every time. I'd mark around the edge of the positioned overlay and cut over-sized, making sure not to cut too much anywhere, then with the fit refined, gradually trim away the edge of the overlay and test the fit until an accurately sized binding slot is achieved all the way around. Glue it using the dowels (or whatever indexing method) for alignment, then apply the bindings after the glue dries and the slot is cleaned up.
Bernie, since I don't like the process of cutting binding slots in F5-shaped head stocks, I cut the overlay to shape before gluing it to the still-rectangular (more or less) head stock then cut the head stock to leave a binding slot. That way, I can use a band saw and spindle sander to cut the overlay, along with hand tools in the tight places.
To fit an overlay to an already-shaped head stock, I would cut the overlay to rough shape and then index it to the head stock with dowels in the tuner holes or something, anything to make sure it goes back in the exact same position every time. I'd mark around the edge of the positioned overlay and cut over-sized, making sure not to cut too much anywhere, then with the fit refined, gradually trim away the edge of the overlay and test the fit until an accurately sized binding slot is achieved all the way around. Glue it using the dowels (or whatever indexing method) for alignment, then apply the bindings after the glue dries and the slot is cleaned up.
Excellent! Thanks a million -- I think I can do that!
Bernie
____
Due to current budgetary restrictions the light at the end of the tunnel has been turned off -- sorry about the inconvenience.
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