Newbie set up

[Astro]

Rob Meldrum has an excellent ebook available to MC members describing the proper set up. All newbies should email him and get a copy as it is quite detailed and well written.

Thank you Rob!

What I now realize is that my new mandolin (eastman md305) needs bridge work. Although I think it plays and sounds fine, I noticed the middle of my bridge is not touching the surface of the body of the mandolin. I would say about 20 % of the bridge length right in the middle of the bridge is about 1 millimeter off the surface.

How important is this to fix ? I think the projection and volume and tone are fine as is but maybe I don't know what I'm missing?

My intonation is perfect and I already lowered the saddle for nice low action so I hate to mess with the bridge. I'm not particularly handy and don't have the right tools. I'm just starting to learn songs and hate to have down time on my new toy which I've barely put down in a week. There are guitar techs around but no one specializing in mando around. I would pay for a good set up but hate to have to pay for shipping too.

What to do? Keep playing or stop and get the bridge right? Is there apt to be enough difference for a newbie to notice ?

[shortymack]

Hi Astro, Im a noob too and just got a copy of that cool resource as well from Rob (thanks!!). I have yet to read through it all but looking at the bridge on my MK I see that its actually cut away to an arch in the middle of it. Looking at some pics of Kentuckys I just saw the same thing with them as well. Not sure if Eastman uses this type of bridge or if its normal for all of them basically to have two feet so to speak with the middle section carved away.

[Pete Summers]

In my opinion it's not important at all to fix it. As shortymack points out, many mandolin bridges have raised centers. If it sounds good, leave it alone. Of course, at some point you might want a luthier to fit the entire base of the bridge to contact the top for appearance sake, if it bothers you. But it probably won't make any difference in sound.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

[Astro]

OK, good and thanks to the both of you for responding.

Shortymac- I actually thought it was meant to be arched in the middle too but Robs manual emphasizes there should be no daylight showing through.

Pete- the appearance doesn't bother me a bit and it sounds fine to me but I'm just starting out so I dont know what I dont know.
But I'm inclined to stick with your story too.

Also I just realized my G string does catch a buzz when I go way up the fretboard past the 10th fret or so. I'm bummed to have to raise the saddle because I like that low action. I need to change my forum name to Wimpy Finger. These strings are killing me but I really love it.

[Pete Summers]

OK, good and thanks to the both of you for responding.

Shortymac- I actually thought it was meant to be arched in the middle too but Robs manual emphasizes there should be no daylight showing through.

Pete- the appearance doesn't bother me a bit and it sounds fine to me but I'm just starting out so I dont know what I dont know.
But I'm inclined to stick with your story too.

Also I just realized my G string does catch a buzz when I go way up the fretboard past the 10th fret or so. I'm bummed to have to raise the saddle because I like that low action. I need to change my forum name to Wimpy Finger. These strings are killing me but I really love it.

The buzzing G string is probably from a high fret. Raising the bridge may stop it, but a better solution is to find the high fret and press in down or file it down, known as "dressing the frets." You might want to take it to someone who does mandolin setups for that, but you may be able to do it yourself. You might find some useful info at Frets.com about all of these issues.

[Folkmusician.com]

Yep, it is normal for the center of your bridge to have an arch. Just make sure there is good contact with the rest of it.

How high do you have your action set at the 12th fret G string? You should be able to get it to 4/64ths without buzzing. If it is buzzing at 4/64ths or higher, it is probably fret/neck relief issues.

[Astro]

Thanks so much Robert. That is great to hear. I was dreading having to sand down the bridge. I thought RobM's ebook on set up meant there to be no light coming through under the bottom of the bridge but maybe Rob M. meant that to refer only to the outer thirds of the bridge ??

I will have to buy some of those feeler gauges and take some measurements for string height. I also find fretting at the first fret comparatively more difficult. Especially for chords requiring multiple strings like the 3 finger E [1220] or the 2 finger Gm7[0011]. The nut notch is higher than my first fret but the overall string height at the nut doesn't look high to me when I just eye ball it. So it may just be me struggling with the higher tension and tiny spaces of the Mando instrument. I'll measure soon.

Thanks so much !

[Turnip Mountain Picker]

If you dont have feeler guages use a medium .60 pick to check your string highth.

[G7MOF]

Hi Astro, Where would I find this EBook?

[Astro]

Hey G7. Here is the thread that links Robs email where you can ask him for the ebook on set ups. He replied straight away and is very kind to offer this.

http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...hlight=meldrum

I now realize there are different types of floating mando bridges with the thumbwheels. One type has a definite intentional high arch in the middle of the bridge. Obviously this arched part is not intended to touch the body. The arch is about an inch long and over half an inch high. This type seems to have a very thick (in height) bridge.

Another type (like mine) the bridge is not so high. Less height thickness of the wood. No middle arch. Just a gentle curve to the bottom of the bridge that follows the body contour.

My assumption is that this type bridge (like on my Eastman) should touch the body evenly all along its length. But mine has about a mm gap along the middle 20% of the bottom of the bridge.

I now think, as RobM's ebook suggests, my type bridge should be sanded to touch the body along its entire length to get the most out of the bridge. Maybe Someday....

[G7MOF]

Thanks Astro!

[G-Run]

Thanks Astro!

Hello Astro! I have for the last 6 years and the last 4 mandolins, seated the entire bridge to the top. I tried this myself and had to get my luthier friend to fix it for me. You really want it to seat good for max vibration of string to wood. A nut (I use cow bone) with no shim installed and set up corectly, and a bridge (my choice is ebony) installed and set up corectly with this important thing in mind, everything must touch, seating very good everywhere all give a small but very important string to wood vibration. To include tail peices and tuner post. Everything string to wood can give you an edge. 7 small things make a big differance even on a lesser exspensive instrument. I play a Shue mandolin. The builder is in Concord, NC. Western ceader top and maple back and sides of course. X-braced. I just bought a new one from him with opening in bridge. I caried it to my local friend for my custom set-up seating the bridge all the way across the top. Special string spaceing, low action at the nut and high at the bridge. 2 mill I think. That is high but I do good with it and it gives me lots of volume. My 2 Shue mandolins are absolute killers. Hope this testimony helps.

[Astro]

Thanks G-Run. Yeah the Eastman comes standard with a bone nut and an ebony bridge. I will try to find someone experienced to sand my bridge to fit better. I'm just not sure I want to try to tackle that. Same with the nut.

If anyone knows a good mandolin luthier in SC or NC that could really tweak this one out, I would hire them. Mine has a good tone already and also seems pretty loud to me. But I would love to get the max out of it. It already plays easier than the Garage Center plywoods I tried. But if I could get it even easier to play, I would love to. And I know it can be done.

[Pete Summers]

Another type (like mine) the bridge is not so high. Less height thickness of the wood. No middle arch. Just a gentle curve to the bottom of the bridge that follows the body contour.

My assumption is that this type bridge (like on my Eastman) should touch the body evenly all along its length. But mine has about a mm gap along the middle 20% of the bottom of the bridge.

I now think, as RobM's ebook suggests, my type bridge should be sanded to touch the body along its entire length to get the most out of the bridge. Maybe Someday....

This seems to be the common wisdom.

However, I'm wondering just what the theory is as to why this is necessary, except for appearance? If the end portions of the bridge make good contact, why would that not be sufficient? It is sufficient on the bridges with high centers. And it is on violin (and banjo) bridges which always stand of two rather narrow, short feet.

Does full contact along the length of the bridge really affect tone? If so, why? From my own limited experience with my mandolins, I can't say that it much matters so long as there is good contact on a substantial portion of the bridge. Of course, I could be wrong, so if anybody has a definite theory about this, I, for one, would like to hear it.

[G-Run]

Hello Astro! Sandhills Music Center Fayetteville, NC. 910-423-0006. Bradd Muphett is the set up man and I highly recomend him. Tell him Mark Johnson recomended him. He charged me $65.00 dollers. Check out Dan Lashbrook NC mountians But be propaired. Google Dan Lashbrook and read about what he does. He did 2 of my mandolins. They were never the same. I believe now in big fretts. Everything that you can do to maxamize string to wood vibration. Hello Pete. In regards to your statement about the bridge feet. Would you not think that 3 inches would give you more vibration to the top than 1.5 inches? It's not for looks. Im telling you from my exsperiance of having this done more than once. I know everyone has ther own oppinion and this is mine. I can feel more vibration off of the back of the mandolin. I was in a big jam last night. Around 20 peaple. More than I like but it was fun. It was loud with all those enstruments. Another Silver Angle mandolin was there on a mic. A banjo was on a mic. 2 of the guitars were on mics. I was not and Iwas heard very well on breaks. The other mandolin and the banjo couldn't hardly hear themselves. True story. My set up gives me an edge. My mandolin woods make a big deferance to you know. How it is built also. What you do has all to do with edventure and how far you want to go with exsperamenting. Untill you know by exsperiance you will always wonder. Sure it takes some cash but a nice fishing boat does to and a sports car does to if thats what you want. Keep playing guys. And I like talking to you all.

[Astro]

Thanks Pete. Thanks G-RUN. I'm in SC but occasionally get to Asheville area and rarely to Charlotte area.

OK I went to auto parts store and got feeler gauges. Man they are messy with loads of oil on them.

The G string has some buzz on ever fret past 10. No protruding frets. I think I lowered the g side of saddle too much when I got it. The nut on the g side seems too high by feel, but doesnt look high so maybe whimpy fingered Astro.

Anyway, here is what I found on my current set up:

G String First Fret =0.017 inches (0.43mm)

E String First Fret= 0.008 inches (0.20mm)

G String 12th Fret= 0.050 inches (1.26mm)

E String 12th Fret= 0.057 inches (1.44mm)

[Astro]

So as Robert Fear suggests, 4/64 ths (or 0.0625 inches) is obtainable at the 12th fret G and that equals 1.587mm if my math is right.(I suck at math). So I am indeed a little too low on my bridge height on the G Side. But not by much.

[Folkmusician.com]

yep... 1.59mm. Now you should be able to get fairly aggressive at 4/64ths. If you play with a light touch you may run it lower. 1.44mm is not out of bounds if everything is setup just right and you play with some finesse. Of course the lower you go, the more apparent even minor fret issues become.

[Kheath]

I just got mine, and have read through it. I found I already have all the necessary tools, and I cleared off my work bench before I came into work this evening as I plan on spending the weekend setting up my old savannah. If it goes well I will move on to my new Morgan Monroe. Big shout out to Robert Meldrum for making this resource available to us all, and whole heartedly suggest everyone take advantage of it. Thanks Again Robert!.........kevin

[kaybone]

I just got mine too! How awesome! Great pdf with videos to match! Thank so much to Rob Meldrum for taking the incredibile amount to time to do this and help the newbies and non-newbies alike. So thank you Rob Meldrum - we are indeed not worthy:

[robster]

Thanks for the kind words, everyone. I was wondering at the increased interest in the ebook... About half a dozen requests daily. Glad you're finding it useful! Rob

Still free to mandolincafe members. Email a request to rob.meldrum@gmail.com.

[DaveL35]

Received mine the other day. Lots of useful stuff in there. The home-made nut file idea could save a lot of money!

Thanks Rob!