Looking for threads on cleaning corroded metal parts/tailpieces

**Kerry Krishna** · Jul-08-2012, 2:13pm

I know that I have seen threads on this, and the Search function did not turn up much. I recall seeing a photoessay on chemical baths that somewhat restored tailpieces and such. The tailpiece I am working on today is off of an old 80 year old guitar. I certainly do NOT want it to look knew, but cleaner than it is would be good. Thanks for any help Forum!

**MikeEdgerton** · Jul-08-2012, 2:40pm

Originally Posted by Kerry Krishna

I know that I have seen threads on this, and the Search function did not turn up much. I recall seeing a photoessay on chemical baths that somewhat restored tailpieces and such. The tailpiece I am working on today is off of an old 80 year old guitar. I certainly do NOT want it to look knew, but cleaner than it is would be good. Thanks for any help Forum!

There are a few here.

How tarnished is it?

**MikeEdgerton** · Jul-08-2012, 2:47pm

I have been looking at, but have not purchased an item that Harbor Freight sells. Basically it's a tumbler (In one case it doesn't tumble it shakes). You put the rusted item in the can with the somewhat abrasive rust removing points and tumble it for a while and it is supposed to remove the rust. I'm planning on using it to age guitar parts. If it's real bad you might look at their website. Otherwise, I'm a NEVR-DULL fan.

**Kerry Krishna** · Jul-08-2012, 2:58pm

Sorry Mike, the link does not work...

**MikeEdgerton** · Jul-08-2012, 3:04pm

Hmmm, works for me on three different machines. Is anyone else having a problem with it?

**MikeEdgerton** · Jul-08-2012, 3:05pm

I just ran a test. It won't work if you're not logged in.

**Folkmusician.com** · Jul-08-2012, 4:35pm

Not working for me either. I am logged in. : )

**Kerry Krishna** · Jul-08-2012, 4:47pm

I also am logged in..

**mandolinlee** · Jul-08-2012, 9:07pm

Mike,
I'm logged in - link didn't work.
Thanks,
Lee

**MikeEdgerton** · Jul-08-2012, 9:09pm

Now it doesn't work for me.

**MikeEdgerton** · Jul-08-2012, 9:11pm

I just figured out that I might have made the mistake. Does this search work?

**MikeEdgerton** · Jul-08-2012, 9:27pm

Tumblers on the Haror Freight site can be found here (I hope). Rust cutting media can be found here.

**Bill Snyder** · Jul-08-2012, 10:12pm

I have one of those vibratory parts tumblers. After a week in the machine I could not tell any difference in the parts from when they went in.

**MikeEdgerton** · Jul-08-2012, 10:20pm

What kind of media were you using? I'm planning on using one to knock the shine off some chrome parts.

**Bill Snyder** · Jul-08-2012, 10:33pm

I used the coarse walnut shell. I was hoping to clean rust off of some metal parts.

**MikeEdgerton** · Jul-08-2012, 10:52pm

I'm looking to try the resin points.

**pickngrin** · Jul-08-2012, 11:56pm

Originally Posted by Kerry Krishna

I know that I have seen threads on this, and the Search function did not turn up much. I recall seeing a photoessay on chemical baths that somewhat restored tailpieces and such. The tailpiece I am working on today is off of an old 80 year old guitar. I certainly do NOT want it to look knew, but cleaner than it is would be good. Thanks for any help Forum!

I just had to chuckle when I read the title. Over at my other haunt, TDPRI, there are endless discussions on how to best tarnish, scratch, ding, dent and otherwise relic a perfectly good instrument. In the end, I guess it all balances out to a zero-sum game.

**Ivan Kelsall** · Jul-09-2012, 3:00am

Re.the rotary 'tumblers' - they're mainly used for removing sharp edges on machined or pressed out parts,even then they need to be left in the tumbler drum for a day or so. If you can track down a good shot-blasting shop,they usually have many different 'blasting media',from rice husks to actual lead shot & grit. A quick blasting with rice husks (or similar) would do it. If you want to do it yourself & just remove the 'flaky bits',i'd use a brass bristled suede brush.The bristles are stiff enough to remove the corrosion (if it's loose) & soft enough not to scratch the tailpiece,
Ivan

**Bill Snyder** · Jul-09-2012, 3:27pm

Ivan we are not discussing a rotary tumbler. This is a vibratory tumbler.
Mike, fwiw I pulled out my tumbler today and loaded it with some Black Diamond (TM) blasting media and it is working pretty good. I guess the crushed walnut shells are too soft for this.

**MikeEdgerton** · Jul-09-2012, 3:32pm

I'm happy to hear that, I may go buy one tomorrow and try it out. I think the media might be everything.

**Kerry Krishna** · Jul-12-2012, 5:27pm

Thanks for all the help everyone, it was appreciated! I ended up soaking the whole tailpiece in CLR for a full half hour, and it came clean enough for my needs . My camera hiccoughed,so the only 'before pic, is of the piece in the ziplock bag. You can still easily see how black and tarnished it was....
It actually worked quite well...

**Texas** · Jul-14-2012, 10:19pm

Originally Posted by Kerry Krishna

I know that I have seen threads on this, and the Search function did not turn up much. I recall seeing a photoessay on chemical baths that somewhat restored tailpieces and such. The tailpiece I am working on today is off of an old 80 year old guitar. I certainly do NOT want it to look knew, but cleaner than it is would be good. Thanks for any help Forum!

I work on old watches and I use "Yellow Rouge" and a polishing cloth or rotary tool with a soft buffing wheel to clean old watches. In that situation you can't afford to remove platting or inscriptions so this stuff is very gentle. Here are a couple pics of the old Kay I am working on. If you look at the right side you will see how much cleaner it is vs the left which I left un polished. Again, this is not a great picture, but in person it looks almost new after a light hand polish:

Click image for larger version.

Name: YellowRouge.JPG
Views: 30
Size: 31.0 KB
ID: 89228

Click image for larger version.

Name: tailkay07142012.png
Views: 29
Size: 171.7 KB
ID: 89229

**almeriastrings** · Jul-15-2012, 12:12pm

Yep. Rotary tool (Dremel). Works extremely well, and there are all kinds of fine detail brushes/burnishers available. Just did an old Calton case metal parts with one. Excellent result.

**modon** · Jul-15-2012, 10:17pm

I've been using a product called 'Evapo-Rust'. Its a solution claimed to be non toxic, no fumes, biodegradable, bla bla bla, and it works pretty good! I use it on antique clock parts that have picked up rust. I immerse the part in the solution, wait a while depending on how rusted the part is. If you leave the part in too long, it comes out blackened like a black oxide finish, but it buffs off easily. This stuff works best for rusted steel parts.
Now for tarnished brass, my favorite is 'NeverDull', a cotton batting with some chemical or other. It shines brass (unlaquered) very nicely, leaving a light patina. I use this stuff routinely on the tailpiece plate of my old Gibson A model.

**Texas** · Jul-16-2012, 8:05am

Originally Posted by modon

I've been using a product called 'Evapo-Rust'. Its a solution claimed to be non toxic, no fumes, biodegradable, bla bla bla, and it works pretty good! I use it on antique clock parts that have picked up rust. I immerse the part in the solution, wait a while depending on how rusted the part is. If you leave the part in too long, it comes out blackened like a black oxide finish, but it buffs off easily. This stuff works best for rusted steel parts.
Now for tarnished brass, my favorite is 'NeverDull', a cotton batting with some chemical or other. It shines brass (unlaquered) very nicely, leaving a light patina. I use this stuff routinely on the tailpiece plate of my old Gibson A model.

Sounds like a form of "Navel Jelly" which can be bought at any big-box home center. NJ is great for removing rust from parts, but obviously they must be removed from the instrument. It is toxic and should be used in a ventilated area and with gloves.