Suggestions for my next mandolin?

**shiloh** · Jun-24-2012, 11:24pm

Hi everyone,

So I'm dealing with a left-hand injury/recovery, which makes mandolin playing challenging (good excuse, anyway

I have a great Gibson F5 for those times when I defect to other genres. What I'm trying to find is the perfect mandolin for me - for classical, old-timey, and Celtic. Generally one thinks of an A mandolin, oval hole. I completely agree. My challenge, though, relates back to the hand-injury thing.

So here's what I think I know:
1. Do not want a bowl back (although I like them a lot)
2. Need the standard, 1 1/8" nut
3. Definitely need a radiused fingerboard
4. Prefer a shorter scale (shorter than 14")
5. Prefer NOT to have a big, fat, neck profile (I had an old Gibson A that I loved the tone of, but the neck was just too frustrating and painful to deal with for me so I sold it. Loved the sound of it, though). When I measure the circumference around the neck at the first fret, all the way around, including over the top of the strings, I'm looking for less than 3 3/8" (at least that's what seems the most comfortable for me)
6 Prefer carved mandolin (not flat - nothing against a flat mandolin as I still own one!)
7. Must have a nice, full, rich tone.
8. Pretty would be nice

Any thoughts? Of course I've considered having an instrument made for me, but it's pretty risky to "design my own instrument" (not to mention expensive) without having ever played one like it.

Thanks for your suggestions. I'm leaning toward either f-holes or oval-hole, A style mandolin.

Jill

**pjlama** · Jun-25-2012, 12:37am

Old Wave, Bill Bussman makes a great oval and is nice to work with. Unless you can swing a Gil model 1 OW will fit the bill nicely. For other options; Since you like Weber stuff their vintage A oval is nice and so is a Collings oval. The Collings ovals are more recent so the questions about neck shape form the other thread don't apply.

I almost forgot,BRW, I'm not sure the model but it's a three point hybrid that's amazing. Long neck oval, beautiful looks. Charles Johnson has one right now. I played the original prototype and was very impressed.

**JEStanek** · Jun-25-2012, 8:30am

How much shorter than 14" fir the scale? Most are 13 7/8" standard. I wouldn't hesitate to talk with Bill Bussman about having one built with a neck profile you like. I don't like more substantial necks and I remember the Collings MT I played being comfortable (and it was very loud). I've not played the Collings ovals but would love to try one out.

What's wrong with the Aspen? It would do very well in those genres. If the board is flat, it would be much cheaper to have Weber instal a radiused board than buy a new mandolin of similar quality. If the neck is too substantial, you could have them reprofile it at the same time and you're still way under "new mandolin" budget.

Jamie

**Pete Summers** · Jun-25-2012, 9:38am

Violin scale is 13 inches and is found mostly on bowl backs I think, but also some flat tops (I have a Regal reverse scroll which has a 13 inch scale). Perhaps the older Martin flat tops?

I think it will be hard to find a carved top mandolin with the violin scale, though.

**Jim Garber** · Jun-25-2012, 10:03am

+1 fpr Bill Bussmann. He has a long track record -- over 500 mandolins -- and can work with you to make you whatever you need. I am sure that he can make you a 13 inch scale and the right neck profile. I would try out a bunch of mandolins esp std ones and see if the necks are comfortable for you. I think Martins might be a good idea and those are pretty standardized and Bill could prob copy the specs for one of those.

OTOH: maybe a shorter scale is not the solution. After all you have an F5. You may just need to use lighter strings until your hands get strong again. Just a thought.

**fatt-dad** · Jun-25-2012, 10:24am

Couldn't hurt to call Big Muddy either.

Dave Cohen (I just love my Cohen mandolin!!) makes short-scale mandolins.

I'd love to play an Old Wave one day, 'cause I really like the looks of his mandolins and have heard such great things from owners over the years.

The end game is the Gil Model 1 though. . . Just sayin'

f-d

**Jim Garber** · Jun-25-2012, 10:54am

F-D: re: Big Muddy, see #6 on her list, prefers carved.

I would also recommend Dave Cohen. Unless she is rolling in the dough I would not say go for the Gil. More bang for the buck with the others IMHO.

**Eugene** · Jun-25-2012, 10:58am

What about tracking down one of the old Lyon & Healy carved series: models A, B, or C? The 1920s pieces in that series will have the scale length you're after. I like all the other suggestions above as well, including for one of Dave Cohen's "Classical" models.

**shiloh** · Jun-25-2012, 3:39pm

Hi Eugene,
Yes, I love the tone of the old L & H mandolins. Not sure if the neck profile would suit my finicky hand situation? I've never played one but would like to.

Jamie - the Aspen has a nice tone and the workmanship is marvelous. I sent it back to Weber a few months ago and they added as much radius as they could and slimmed down the neck. But unfortunately it's just still a bit too chunky for my comfort.

Does anyone know if the old Gibson A mandolins can have the neck slimmed down? And a radius added? I understand it would change the value re: "original condition" but I really like the old Gibsons - but even the snakehead A models have a neck which isn't comfortable to me.

Last year I spoke with the luthier who modified Mike Marshall's Loar and added a radius among other things. Chatted with him about modifying one of my F-style mandolins - expensive estimate but probably worth it. Still, I don't have my "muse" mandolin yet, so the hunt continues.

Jill

**fatt-dad** · Jun-25-2012, 3:43pm

Regarding converting a flat board to a radius board: I've had Lou Stiver do this on several mandolins (he's in the builder's database). It requires a refret and his price quote and results were very favorable. At the time his cost for the whole package was in line with the cost for most folks to just do a refret.

f-d

**Ed Goist** · Jun-25-2012, 3:49pm

Hi Jill; I also like/need a radiused board and prefer a low profile neck.
Jason Harshbarger and Max Girouard have both built mandolins for me that I'm sure you'd love (for the feel, playability and tone). You can see pics of them in the link in my signature.
Both of these builders were remarkably communicative during the build, so I was comfortable that I'd get the playability profile that I wanted. They both nailed it.
Also, Jason sent me a demo to play for a couple weeks before I decided to go with him. This not only sealed the deal that I would be working with him, it also greatly informed the build process.

**margora** · Jun-25-2012, 8:04pm

For what it is worth, my two cents

--a Cohen is an excellent idea. He offers a violin scale. Sound and build quality are outstanding, very reasonable price.

--I wouldn't go the L&H route, unless one is prepared to spend top dollar and a lot of time. Alternatively, one could seek out a modern copy.

--the Gil is a truly superb instrument, even adjusting for the higher price, but the standard model could use more frets, if the goal is to play, say, the standard repertoire. Of course, you can say the same about most carved backs.

--a Collings MT, oval, is another fine choice.

**George R. Lane** · Jun-25-2012, 8:21pm

Jill,
Check out this Gil.

http://www.mandolincafe.com/ads/57636

**margora** · Jun-25-2012, 8:53pm

Re: the Gil in the classifieds, the OP is, it would appear, in San Diego. Trevor won't ship to the US.

**shiloh** · Jun-28-2012, 5:01pm

Old Wave Question:

Any of you Old Wave owners live in Southern California? I'd love to play one and see how they feel? I've been emailing Bill with a ton of questions. One thing I haven't seen, though, are some of the specs (is standard scale length, nut width, etc.) Do any of you know some numbers?

Thanks,
Jill

**Denny Gies** · Jun-28-2012, 5:09pm

Completely out of the box..........get a resonator mandolin and use a slide with your left hand until you heal.

**shiloh** · Jun-28-2012, 11:07pm

Hey Denny,
Good idea :-) Actually I do play the dobro, so a resonator mandolin might work. I have a slide from playing blues guitar. So, who knows!

Jill

**Beanzy** · Jul-01-2012, 8:14pm

Maybe talk to Joseph Campanella I've heard good words on here about his instruments, as a violin maker he'll be used to radiusing profiles along the fingerboard.

**billhay4** · Jul-03-2012, 6:13pm

Brian Dean.

**Schlegel** · Jul-04-2012, 12:49am

I would also recommend you take a hard look at a Phoenix Classical. I lucked into a good deal on a prototype for the model, and it is so very comfortable to play! 2-point carved top, F holes, radiused, built lighter to match with lower tension strings. Super sound, very sweet and clear. Classical and Celtic music fit it well. Looks very cool as well. Don't underestimate the power of 2-point Mojo.

**shiloh** · Jul-05-2012, 12:08am

I'm leaning toward the Lyon and Healy at this point. I guess the Style A and Style B count as a 2-point!

Jill

**JeffD** · Jul-05-2012, 8:47am

Originally Posted by Eugene

What about tracking down one of the old Lyon & Healy carved series: models A, B, or C? The 1920s pieces in that series will have the scale length you're after.

Yes I was thinking of this very thing as I read the listed criteria. Carved top, shorter, thinner neck, the superlative tone appropriate for every genre, and eye catching beauty doesn't hurt either.