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Thread: Removing Binding and perfling

  1. #1
    Registered Pontificator Roger Kunkel's Avatar
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    Default Removing Binding and perfling

    I've glued on top binding on my kit build using the Stewmac Weld-On glue, and I'm considering a redo. Looking for advice on the best method of removing it. First thought is to cut it out with a perfling knife and chisel. Second thought is to heat the glue to get it to release and simply pull the binding off. I don't know if Weld-On releases nicely.

    Thanks

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    Default Re: Removing Binding and perfling

    What is the binding made of?
    If it is wood, the perfling cutter and chisels will work. If it is celluloid, they won't work very well, if it is 'bolteron' or ABS, you'll regret trying to cut it away.
    Usually, plastic bindings can be peeled away from the wood, but only if done carefully with some sort of thin blade used to help the separation. If you just grab and pull once started, you will inevitably pull splinters of wood off with the binding. Plastic bindings are virtually never really securely glued because there aren't any common glues that stick well to both wood and plastic. Some stick very well to wood and some to plastic, but not both.

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    Registered User amowry's Avatar
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    Default Re: Removing Binding and perfling

    Maybe a little acetone would help? That's what I use to remove binding, but I use an acetone-based glue. I'm not familiar with what's in Weld-On.

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    Default Re: Removing Binding and perfling

    When I've done this in the past with celluloid glued with Duco I flood it with acetone and work with an Exacto. Otherwise it will take wood with it.

  5. #5
    Registered User Ken's Avatar
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    Default Re: Removing Binding and perfling

    Just yesterday I pulled the binding off one of my mandolas that I am reworking. I glue my plastic bindings with superglue. Using a thin knife to help prevent tear outs, I was able to gently pull it off quite easily. Only one small splinter which I glued back in (and also happened to be under the tailpiece). I didn't use any solvent to help loosen the glue, but I had stripped the mandola the day before and used lacquer thinner as a final wash, both may have helped to loosen things up. As Spruce says, I've also never seen that plastic bindings are ever really that securely glued, whether I've used Duco, superglue or Titebond. Just go slow and easy.
    Ken
    Peace

  6. #6
    Registered Pontificator Roger Kunkel's Avatar
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    Default Re: Removing Binding and perfling

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Hilburn View Post
    When I've done this in the past with celluloid glued with Duco I flood it with acetone and work with an Exacto. Otherwise it will take wood with it.
    Thanks Jim. The Weld-On product says "cement for acrylic sheet" and the binding is plastic. So I think you're right.

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    Default Re: Removing Binding and perfling

    Duco and Weld-On are different. Whether that means one will be significantly different to release, I cannot say. I've use both cements (Duco for celluloid, Weld-On for other plastics), but I don't remember having to remove bindings glued with Weld-On, so my experience with removing Duco-glued bindings may or may not be similar.

  8. #8
    Registered Pontificator Roger Kunkel's Avatar
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    Default Re: Removing Binding and perfling

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Hilburn View Post
    When I've done this in the past with celluloid glued with Duco I flood it with acetone and work with an Exacto. Otherwise it will take wood with it.
    For the record, this method worked. Thanks again.

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