Broke the bottom E string

[Hobo]

I know this has been discussed before... I couldn't find anything in search.
I just today received my used Loar LM-400 from a forum member. It is sweet -- looks brand new and has a CA bridge and Robert Fear set-up. I was tuning it up to pitch when the bottom E string snapped. It broke at the peg head not the tailpiece, bridge or nut. It is set up with D'Addario J74's. This is my first mandolin and wondering if E string breaking is a common problem -- or just a bad string?

[Philphool]

String error?
Instrument error?
User error?

Insufficient info.

[Cheryl Watson]

It could be a bad string or that particular tuner hole could have a steel "burr" that the string caught on, or it might be that it was strung incorrectly. If a string is wound incorrectly so that you have to loosen it and tighten it again, then the string can break due to metal fatigue. I've had that happen several times. I find that the most common string to break on a mandolin are the E strings. I usually keep a few extra around just in case. You can buy single loop E strings and they are quite long because they are also used for banjos.

[Hobo]

String error?
Instrument error?
User error?

Insufficient info.

I realize it a beginners question... but, i don't know how much more info I could give you in my post. Thanks.

[Hobo]

It could be a bad string or that particular tuner hole could have a steel "burr" that the string caught on, or it might be that it was strung incorrectly. If a string is wound incorrectly so that you have to loosen it and tighten it again, then the string can break due to metal fatigue.

I will look for a burr... thanks for the info.

[rgray]

Based on my limited experience and the simple fact that the E string is the smallest (read, weakest), to be expected. So far, just one string. Not worth losing sleep over. Look for burrs, take extra care stringing, and press on.

[Mandobart]

I know I posted a response to a similar question; someone broke 10 strings in a row...but I can't find it using search either. Anyway, what worked for her was my suggestion to do the old school string wrap. I learned in the last century to change my strings by first wrapping the wound strings (G and D) around the post 3 times, then run thru the hole. For the unwound strings, it was a 5 turn wrap then thru the hole. The way most people do it now is just poke the string thru the hole and start twisting the knob. This forces the string to make a much sharper kink thru the hole right off, instead of a gentler radius around the post. Also, if there are any burs or nicks on the hole in the post, they will cause the string to break.

[Hobo]

I put on a brand new E string and brought it up to pitch and it held... no breaks and good to go! Thanks for suffering these beginner questions! Probably was the string I'm guessing.

[robert.najlis]

I know I posted a response to a similar question; someone broke 10 strings in a row...but I can't find it using search either. Anyway, what worked for her was my suggestion to do the old school string wrap. I learned in the last century to change my strings by first wrapping the wound strings (G and D) around the post 3 times, then run thru the hole. For the unwound strings, it was a 5 turn wrap then thru the hole. The way most people do it now is just poke the string thru the hole and start twisting the knob. This forces the string to make a much sharper kink thru the hole right off, instead of a gentler radius around the post. Also, if there are any burs or nicks on the hole in the post, they will cause the string to break.

nice - I like it. Thanks for sharing!

[Bernie Daniel]

I know I posted a response to a similar question; someone broke 10 strings in a row...but I can't find it using search either. Anyway, what worked for her was my suggestion to do the old school string wrap. I learned in the last century to change my strings by first wrapping the wound strings (G and D) around the post 3 times, then run thru the hole. For the unwound strings, it was a 5 turn wrap then thru the hole. The way most people do it now is just poke the string thru the hole and start twisting the knob. This forces the string to make a much sharper kink thru the hole right off, instead of a gentler radius around the post. Also, if there are any burs or nicks on the hole in the post, they will cause the string to break.

Sounds like a great idea!

[SweetTea]

I use J74 strings. I purchased 4 sets from the same store. All 4 sets after about 1 to 2 weeks of play had one of the E string end loops loosen. I contacted D'Addario's custormer service department explaining to them that I felt like they had a bad lot of strings since all 4 sets did the same thing in a very short period of time from the same store. They promptly sent me free replacements and so far the first set I put on has not had any issues. I am a happy customer since they remedy the problem quickly and professionally.

[allenhopkins]

Another possibility is a too-narrow nut slot for that string, which would mean that the string wouldn't "pull through" smoothly when tightened, causing too-high tension on that part of the string between the tuning peg and the nut. The kink where the string goes into the tuner hole, is a weak point, and excessive tension in the small part of the string between peg and nut, will often show up as a break at the tuning peg.

As well as checking the tuning peg for a burr or unusually sharp edge, consider rubbing the end of a #2 lead pencil in the nut slot for that string, to give a bit of graphite lubrication.

I agree about leaving enough slack in the string when putting it on, so that the string winds around the tuning peg several times when being tightened to pitch. May distribute the strain a bit more. Good luck!

[Tom Wright]

The string gains a lot of friction support for each turn. I like 3 full turns for an E. I do 2 turns for G and D and 3 for the plain strings. I insert the string through the peg with the hole turned sideways to the neck, pull it out to the side two or three inches, then bend the string at the peg and wrap it around one or two turns, before I begin cranking it up while holding the slack down with my thumb to ensure clean winding.

I would expect breakage if you wind from no slack.

[journeybear]

I usually go with two, maybe three winds around the post. Less suggests there might be not enough friction and the string will slip; more suggests there may be too much slack within the winding and the string will slip before settling - and of course, at just the wrong time. Darn Murphy and all his laws and corollaries! It's the baby bear approach - neither too much nor too little, just right in the middle.

But the elephant in the room is in the title - this is the TOP E string! Never mind that it's the lowest when you hold the mandolin in playing position - that's irrelevant. Its most important characteristic is its pitch, which is the highest, thus top. So, now you know. Oh, and yeah - pick up some single E strings - they break way more than all the others combined, and if you don't buy themn singly you will end up with a bunch of sets of just G, D, and A strings in your case.

[bmac]

The E strings are the thinnest and thus thus most subject to breaking under tension. I broke two the first time i tried to re-string my mandolin. It is, in fact a matter of technique in installing and tuning. frets.com has excellent information on re-stringing. Once I learned the proper technique I have had no breakage or other difficulty. Also be extra cautious in avoiding any sharp bends when installing, on purpose or by accident. Also be sure to replace one string at a time leaving the old ones in place until ready to install the next new one.

I would inspect the tailpiece carefully to make sure there are no sharp edges on the metal anywhere near where the strings touch it.

One would think that installing strings should be easy... And it is , but only if you have a good system for doing it.