Why aren't Gibson A-00 mandolins good for bluegrass?

**Adam Sweet** · Jun-03-2012, 9:38am

Generally oval-hole mandolins are quieter than F-hole mandolins. That's a general statement. Of course it depends on the instrument.

**journeybear** · Jun-03-2012, 9:53am

Well, when you put it that way ... with those qualifiers, it's hard to say much.

But I'll say just a bit anyway.

My 1917 A is a LOT louder than my late lamented mid-70s F-12 ever was, and has a lot fuller and more complex sound, too. Of course, instruments vary, probably no such thing as a definitive example. But the A really booms. It's a banjo killer, and if not killer, then at least it will do some serious damage. My A-00 is an awful lot quieter. I don't know how much difference sound holes make in volume by themselves, but I can see they could be a contributing factor. I think given all these have carved tops, the flat back is a big factor. Anyway, lots of apples and oranges being mixed into this fruit salad.

I'm looking forward to a report from the OP when he gets his new baby.

**Capt. E** · Jun-04-2012, 1:35pm

My 1937 A-00 is plenty loud (ff holes and carved back: see evolution of specs above). The shorter scale does have an effect on the tone, but I like it. I have to say that I play old-time mostly, not much bluegrass. Ben at Fiddlers Green, who definitely plays bluegrass, pulled a pretty good sound out of it when he tried it out.

**Timmando** · Jun-04-2012, 2:49pm

I have a couple questions about the A00 that is being shipped to me. The serial number in the A00 is #368A. Does the 8 stand for august of 1936 or the 8th mando built in 1936? Also, if it is a 1936, it should have a carved back, but the back has a seam that is splitting...do carved backs have seams? Thanks!

**lenf12** · Jun-04-2012, 3:20pm

Hi again Timmando,

I can't address your serial # questions but someone more knowledgeable will hopefully chime in. 368A sounds like the FON (factory order number) to me, not a serial #. Re: your other questions: carved back and flat back mandolins can have a seam down the middle if they are made of 2 pieces of wood. They can also have a 1 piece back depending on whether there was a piece of wood big enough to make the back. Post a picture of the back when you recieve the mandolin. You may want to post it also on the builders/repair forum to get an opinion of how serious the split may be and whether it may need some professional attention.

Len B.
Clearwater, FL

**rbvintage** · Jun-04-2012, 4:17pm

As Allen mentioned earlier, Red Rector played, almost exclusively, an oval-holed Gibson A model...here's Red and friends with some classic bluegrass from 1983! Enjoy!

**Capt. E** · Jun-04-2012, 4:45pm

Yes, your number is most probably a FON. My 1937 A-00 is stamped inside on the back 1 2 0 3 0(D?) with a penciled "13" after it. It is probably instrument #13 in the batch.

**Timmando** · Jun-05-2012, 8:56am

Originally Posted by Capt. E

Yes, your number is most probably a FON. My 1937 A-00 is stamped inside on the back 1 2 0 3 0(D?) with a penciled "13" after it. It is probably instrument #13 in the batch.

Capt E...how do you know it is a 1937 A00...any other stamps on yours?

The number on mine 368A seems to identify it as a 1936 model...do you think that is just a coincedence that a FON could have the year in it?

**Capt. E** · Jun-05-2012, 2:13pm

Check out the following site for some pretty good info in Gibson serial numbers and FON's http://home.provide.net/~cfh/gibson.html

The number in my A-00 actually looks like 12030, but according to the FON conventions, the last "digit" is probably a "C" or a "D". If it is a C, then it is a 1937 instrument, if it is a D then it is a 1938 instrument. My dating of my A-00 is based on the info in the above website and info from here on the cafe. Can't prove it, but I generally call it a 1937. It has an unbound, carved back which fits the specs for '37.

**Capt. E** · Jun-05-2012, 2:20pm

Ok, I just got my A-00 out and looked reeeeeeaaal carefully at the number. It is definitely 1203C followed by a penciled "13".
It is mandolin #13 out of FON 1203C made in 1937. In 1938 the letter ( D that year) was put before the FON.

**Timmando** · Jun-28-2012, 7:47am

Here are some photos of the A00 that I just received. After new strings, lowered the action, lubed the tuners, she sounds pretty good. Lots of volume on the A and E, more than my Morgan Monroe MDM-2. Nice wide grain on the top, red spruce I presume? According to the serial number info given in a previous reply, the serial number 368A 20 is serial 368, the A stands for year 1935 and the 20 is the 20th built. So this is a 1935, not a 1936 as I thought.

**almeriastrings** · Jun-28-2012, 8:49am

Very nice.

**f5loar** · Jun-28-2012, 10:00am

That is correct. the "A" in the FON started in 1935 with B being 1936 and C 1937 ect. It's not the serial no but he FON. Low end models did not carry a serial no. in addtion to the FON, only the FON. I guess you know the bridge is not original. It would have come with a Gibson rosewood adjustable bridge. 368 is batch no. 20 is 20th of that batch in 1935

**mandroid** · Jun-29-2012, 4:46pm

one difference heel of neck comes up shorter, if you are shifting that 4 finger G chop chord up the neck.

but it has all the notes on the fingerboard .. to play any style of music you want to tackle..

**Capt. E** · Jun-29-2012, 4:50pm

Beautiful looking instrument. I and continuing to enjoy mineYours looks a lot better than mine which has been played hard over the years, bridge replaced, nut replaced, fret job on 1st 7, etc., I love the sound though.