Or you can try this.
Use spray adhesive to glue aluminum foil to 4 pieces of regular or extra thick, "quality" corrugated cardboard. Or in this case, make one piece and cut a slot the size of the bridge base.
Arrange around the bridge, using weights, low tack tape etc. (the cardboard itself acts as insulation)
Get a 250 watt infrared bulb, put it in your swing-arm lamp, position 3 inches above bridge for 5 to 7, 8, 9 etc minutes... until it's too hot to touch. Quickly turn off bulb, remove cardboard and ...Carefully insert "separating" tool (super thin artists pallet knife?) into glued joint and work it.
I suspect some finish may come off with the CA in this case, but I use this system all the time to remove guitar bridges, fingerboards... etc. doing half of a bridge at a time or moving along a fingerboard a 4 or 5 inch section at a time.
You can easily use many configurations of cardboard, like to cover the binding along a fingerboard edge and not be as likely to melt it or cover a 1/8" perimeter around guitar bridges so you don't heat the top finish ....I have a Martin bridge shape cut into one edge of a piece and for the odd shapes of the back of some bridges, I stuff in loose foil to fill the gaps. I have specially ground, former putty knives, that I dip in hot water to separate hide or yellow glues... just a tiny bit of water goes a long way.
Having said all this... I myself would probably try whacking it a few times first... either way I think the finish will be damaged.