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Thread: OM - flat vs curved top/bottom

  1. #1
    Always learning something Mo Soar's Avatar
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    Default OM - flat vs curved top/bottom

    So, since I am - frustratingly - still looking for a short scale OM in my price range, I thought I'd ask EVEN MORE questions. Those of you who have had the opportunity to play many OMs, what would you say is the tone difference between a curved/carved top and/or bottom OM vs a flat top/bottom? There is certainly quite the price difference.

    I also notice a difference in body shapes, from the traditional A style body to a sort of squatter-yet-rounder shape (what I think of, probably incorrectly, as a more traditional Irish shape).
    1918 Gibson A, "Lillian";
    1940s (?) Kay A style f hole - currently down for a refret and fretboard re-profile, my first attempts (with guidance) at lutherie.
    1981 Washburn M7SN (2 point);
    2011 Eastman 504, "Belle";
    2012 Lafferty mahogany octave mandolin;
    2012 Emando (Saga), "Hank"

    1 husband, 2 dogs, 4 chickens.

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    Moderator JEStanek's Avatar
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    Default Re: OM - flat vs curved top/bottom

    Honestly, short of folks playing small shop (Brock, Old Wave or even Weber) there aren't tons of arched OMs floating around out there. None of the Asian builders make one, IIRC. At the CBOM tastings I've attended most have been flat backed/topped instruments with just a few exceptions. You're likely to hear more of a difference between f holes and oval holes than oval holes on an arch top or flat back. It has, however, been a long time since I've listened to them side by side.

    What scale length are you after? The Trinity College OM is a fantastic, and inexpensive way to get into the OM. I don't know what your budget is but, used the TC OM will run you ~$400. I don't know of other builds that will perform as well near that price point. When you're talking arch top and back you gotta multiply by 10 (at least) in most cases. The TC OM is 20 3/8" scale.

    Jamie

    PS, I have serious cravings to play an Old Wave Guitar shaped OM with F holes... I'll never warrant it or convince my wife to let me buy it.
    There are two things to aim at in life: first, to get what you want; and, after that, to enjoy it. Only the wisest of mankind achieve the second. Logan Pearsall Smith, 1865 - 1946

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    Registered User Mandobart's Avatar
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    Default Re: OM - flat vs curved top/bottom

    I've played my two arch top carved top & back plate OM's. One is a MK octave plus, the last of the Asian models of this type (no longer in production). Has f-holes. The other is my Tom Jessen OM, which has an oval hole. I've played a few Herb Taylor flat top, oval hole OM's and 'zouks. These usually have round or oval holes.

    My definition of guitar-like sound: Basically greater sustain and bass response than a mandolin. My general impressions are the flat top and back OM's, especially with oval or round holes, are more guitar-like sounding than the carved plate ones. The oval holed carved OM I have sounds more guitar-like than the f-hole one. Really though, I'm basing my impressions on a limited experience of only about six instruments total, and none of these are TC models. Knowing full well that your chance of testing out several models is low, I would order from a cafe-supporting shop that offers a trial period for return and refund if it's not what you want.

  4. #4

    Default Re: OM - flat vs curved top/bottom

    James Curtis, Port Townsend in WA, makes an arched top OM. He currently has on on ebay for around $2,000. I have played one of his and it is an exquisite instrument. But if you are constrained by a sub $600 budget then the TC is the way to go. If your budget is $1,000 you should be looking for a used Petersen or Gypsy. The Gypsy has an induced arch.

  5. #5
    Always learning something Mo Soar's Avatar
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    Default Re: OM - flat vs curved top/bottom

    It's pretty much a matter of a new Trinity (I'd go used if I could find one), the mahogany Lafferty at The Mandolin Store (which is 21") or waiting until the right used Weber comes along. I'm fine with a $1k or so budget. The Trinity and the Lafferty are flat top and back, the Weber could be flat or an arch top, depending on model. I saw a used Weber Hyalite I came close to buying, but someone else bought it while I was dithering.

    In an instrument that I am unsure of, I'd rather go used, simply because the resale value will be close to what I paid for it, compared to buying new and then reselling.
    1918 Gibson A, "Lillian";
    1940s (?) Kay A style f hole - currently down for a refret and fretboard re-profile, my first attempts (with guidance) at lutherie.
    1981 Washburn M7SN (2 point);
    2011 Eastman 504, "Belle";
    2012 Lafferty mahogany octave mandolin;
    2012 Emando (Saga), "Hank"

    1 husband, 2 dogs, 4 chickens.

  6. #6
    Mando accumulator allenhopkins's Avatar
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    Default Re: OM - flat vs curved top/bottom

    Right now I have two carved-top mandocelli (Gibson K-1, Eastman MDC-805), an induced-arch (rounded but not carved) Sobell long-scale mandola, and a flat-top OM (Flatiron 3K). There are so many variables, in terms of scale length, body size/shape, soundhole type, differing woods, differing strings, etc. etc., that it would be a stretch to try to attribute which sonic qualities are associated with carved/arched vs. flat tops.

    Generalizations are precarious; individual instruments of the same brand and type sound different, and it's not easy to say why. I'd get whatever instrument seems decent, available and affordable, work with it, and keep listening and trying different instruments as you progress. Realizing that's not easy, since OM's aren't always easy to find. But the main thing is to get one's feet wet, so to speak, and to realize that no purchase decision has to be the final one. Always more to try...!
    Allen Hopkins
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    Eastmn: 615'dola 805 m'cello
    Flatiron 3K OM

  7. #7
    Registered User zoukboy's Avatar
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    Default Re: OM - flat vs curved top/bottom

    Speaking *very* generally, I would say that carved top instruments favor the midrange while many flattop instruments have what I would describe as an attenuated midrange.

    My experience of this difference as a player, and YMMV, is that carved tops tend to be "plunkier" while flattops sound more "zingy." The conventional wisdom seems to be that carved tops are louder and have more attack, but really good flattops are plenty loud, and the loudest mandolin and bouzouki I've ever played are flattops. I'm not wanting to be controversial here, I'm just describing my experience.

    After 30+ years owning numerous 4 and 5 course Sobells, SOSmiths, and Herb Taylors, as well as mandolins by Sobell, SOSmith, and Newell, as well as sampling literally hundreds of handmade instruments, my tastes have changed to the point where I seem to prefer the tonal and response characteristics of flattop instruments.

    Also, I would caution against getting one of the PacRim instruments if you can avoid it. They are inexpensive, yes, but I think in their case you get less than you pay for. I would suggest looking for something in the $1000-1500 range as you'll get a lot more for your money.

    Good luck!

  8. #8
    Registered User otterly2k's Avatar
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    Default Re: OM - flat vs curved top/bottom

    I encourage you to post an ad in the classifieds saying what you are looking for. I did that a few months ago to help a friend find an entry level om and got several replies with used instrument...tc and otherwise. I think there are folks out there who try om and find they don't stick with them and are happy to find a buyer.

    Fwiw, I think a tc with a good set up is a fine place to start. it will help you refine your preferences. When you are ready to upgrade, you'll have a better sense of what you're looking for.

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