Measuring string height?

[HogTime]

I'm cutting slots in my F5 nut. What's the best way to measure string height at the 1st fret?

I have feeler gauges in 1 mil increments. However, it's hard to tell when the string reaches the desired height. Plus my old shaky hands don't help the situation. I thought about plucking the string then moving the gauge under it, but that doesn't seem to work too well. The string gets deadened when it appears the gauge is thinner than the actual spacing. I know the string moves some when ringing, but at the 1st fret I wouldn't think it would be that much.

I also have the StewMac string height measuring gizmo (metal plate with silk screened markings), but the accuracy on that is only around 5 mils.

Thanks,

[sunburst]

The best method (IMO) is to use the string itself as a straight edge. Press the string down against the third fret. That also presses the string down against the second fret, behind your finger, forming a "straight edge" from the nut slot to the second fret. When the nut slot height is correct, the string will just clear the first fret. That method works regardless of fret height and action height at the bridge, two things that can throw off other method that uses a measuring tool.

[Pete Jenner]

I don't think 1mm increments are enough. I used the StewMac feeler gauges and the height of the first fret was .032inches.
Butt the feeler gauges up to the nut when you are filing and you can't go wrong (unless you file through the gauge ).

[HogTime]

My feelers are in one thousandth of an inch (a "mil") increments. Good idea on filing down to the feeler gauge. Haven't seen that one before.

John, thanks for the tip. I'll try it out.

[Pete Jenner]

BTW is this for the Mandolin you are documenting on your website?
If so - we'd love to see pictures of the finished or nearly finished beast

Cheers,

[kkmm]

I also use filler gauge to measure string height (or string gap more accurately at fret#1 and fret#12).
Fret#1 is more critical. If I stick in 0.014 at fret#1, tap on the string downward, if I hear a "click", then there is a gap. So I went down to 0.013, 0.012, etc... and repeat until the click is no longer heard, that's the one (could be off by 0.001).
To file the nut slots, I always use the filler gauge (at the proper thickness) as the stopping point, it works quite well so far.

[Pete Jenner]

I also use filler gauge to measure string height (or string gap more accurately at fret#1 and fret#12).
Fret#1 is more critical. If I stick in 0.014 at fret#1, tap on the string downward, if I hear a "click", then there is a gap. So I went down to 0.013, 0.012, etc... and repeat until the click is no longer heard, that's the one (could be off by 0.001).
To file the nut slots, I always use the filler gauge (at the proper thickness) as the stopping point, it works quite well so far.

'filler gauge'???

[HogTime]

BTW is this for the Mandolin you are documenting on your website?

Yes it is. I'll update my site within the next few days. I'm "in the white" still, but at least it makes noise.

[kkmm]

Filler gauge ?? My typo error again, I really meant "feeler gauge", I don't even know what the correct spelling is. I guess "thickness gauge" would be very clear.
I like to hear comments about my technique to measure string gap, and like to know better ways for doing it.

[Pete Jenner]

Yes it is. I'll update my site within the next few days. I'm "in the white" still, but at least it makes noise.

Nice one. I enjoy seeing other peoples builds.

[robster]

I'mm 55 now, and my eyesight is not what it was. I certainly can't see well enough to know whether a very small gap is small enough or too small, that's for sure!

If I'm shooting for .011 inches at the first fret, I'll take out a .013 inch feeler gauge. If it nicks the string while sliding under it, and the .011 feeler gauge doesn't, I know I'm pretty darn close. I target a clearance of .011 inches for the E and A strings and .013 inches for the D and G strings at the first fret.

At the 12th fret I usually shoot for a clearance of .050 inches with the thumbscrews up a little, so I can slowly lower them and get the action to optimal with no buzzing. For my playing style, that's usually about .045 inches.

They're called "feeler gauges" because that's what they're called at the auto supply or tool supply store where you buy them. They're commonly used to measure the gap of spark plugs. Hope this helps.

Rob

[sunburst]

Well, I'm about to be 56 and I still "look" for the small gap, minimal clearance, over the first fret with no problem. Get the light at the right angle, when it looks like the string might be touching the fret, give it a tap with a fingertip and listen for the little "tink" sound of the string hitting the fret and look for movement. If there is almost no movement but still a "tink", the height is right. Also, with the light at the right angle the reflection of the string in the shiny fret doubles the distance visually, so it is easier to see. And yes, reading glasses help.

[Folkmusician.com]

I am with John. I can do it more accurately by eye. I do have good eyesight, but when it starts to go, I will get a lighted magnifying glass and countinue to do it by eye.

[Kip Carter]

wow lot of us ole 50ish (insert gas passing body function here in plural)!
Kip...

Note *** Had to place parenthesis because profanity filter thinks that fart + s is profanity but fart isn't. Very strange!

[Pete Jenner]

Wow - you blokes are REALLY old.
I'm only 53 - won't be 54 for a nearly another whole month.

[Kip Carter]

hehehe Old fogies playing little instruments... how cute!
Kip...

[kkmm]

I am doing the same way as sunburst. A little tap on the string at fret#1 will tell whether there is a gap or not.
I still can see well with my eye (glasses), but using ears do help.