I found these seraching on planes and they looked kinda interesting....
Has anyone ever used these?
I found these seraching on planes and they looked kinda interesting....
Has anyone ever used these?
"If you can make it to 50 without growing up, you don't have to..."
Rob Powell AKA The BeerGeek
Forgot to mention...
These go for $85 a set: 1 flat sole, 1 convex width and 1 convex length. can't seem to find the actual blade sizes but they look like they might be a bit easier on the hands and fingers than the sloane finger planes..
"If you can make it to 50 without growing up, you don't have to..."
Rob Powell AKA The BeerGeek
I have one of those, but I've never gotten it to work too well. Probably because of my sharpening skills. I should go back and give it another try. The blade makes a good curved scraper,though.
Thanks Jim....I was hoping they would be better than just scrapers... guess I'll stick to finger planes...
"If you can make it to 50 without growing up, you don't have to..."
Rob Powell AKA The BeerGeek
I also have a couple of these, and don't use them. The IBEX finger planes are much more effective. You just have to toughen up your fingers so you don't get blisters so easily.
How about the old Stanley 100-1/2 curved bottom planes? Granted, you could usually get 2 Ibex planes for what a 100-1/2 goes for on eBay, but I like the old Stanley tools. They look to me to have a larger throat opening than you would want for shaping an instrument. Does anybody have any experience with these? I wouldn't mind buying one if they are decent user tools, but I don't want to buy one as a decorator item.
Thanks,
Paul Doubek
"... beauty is not found in the excessive but what is lean and spare and subtle" - Terry Tempest Williams
I finally got around to making some more carving planes. #I like these better than the brass planes. No blisters! I got the design from Irving Sloane's guitar contruction book. I scaled the design down except for the length of the wedge.
I like those. I'm finally recovering from a monster blister I got while carving a back with an Ibex.
I drilled and tapped two of my Ibex planes, silver soldered in a brass threaded rod and nut, and made a handle to go on the rod. So now I can push 'em with my palm and guide 'em with a finger. Those modifications took a lot of the pain out of the plane.
Like Dave says, put handles on them. Also, you can help avoid blisters by using some of that sticky gauze that you wrap around your fingers to spread the load on your finger tips.
I've tried the convex version of these spoon shaves and they would require a lot of work to carve success fully with. The angle of the blade is too steep and will only dig lumps out or take a very small shave. The mouth is too large to really be of any use on curly grain. The amont of time too regrind and hone the curved edge would not be worth it as fine adjustment is non existent. I burnished a hook on the edge and it makes an ok scraper. I still prefer a swan neck scraper steel though.
Regarding Ibex planes and blisters I found some discomfort with the smaller ones and now that I purchased 3 curved sizes I now use only the large one (20 mm blade). It will take large amounts off with the blade well out carving across the grain towards the centre on the inside. I did alternate between piushing and pulling it in oredr to give my grip/fingers a break. On the outside I only use it for the recurve and the scroll and finishing off, on the inside for rough and smoothe carving. I use a Gransfors carpenters axe and a Lie Nielsen curved sole spokeshave for all the rough and fine carving of the "dome" of the top. The axe is more like a short 4" chisel and though it looks terrifying is surprisingly easy to control. When I come to do the next batch of tops and backs I will probably try their Swedish carving axe as it has a curved edge and should be capable of scooping out the inside bowl of top/back.
Terry Cromer
How long does it take to rough the outside of the top using those tools? I've been thinking of trying a spokeshave or homemade planes. I'm using the Lancelot in an angle grinder and though it's fast, it's also very nerve-racking. I'd like to find another method.
Richard Hutchings
After attending a carving workshop some time back and checking out Michael Lewis' Ibex planes I did the same treatment to the three I have. I got some brass rod and drilled same size holes at the back center of the plane shoe under the level of the blade ledge and at the same angle as the blade. I was able to get some graver handles from a friend who is a retired jeweler/engraver and cut the rod a length that would be comfortable in my hand while accomodating the graver handles. The rod was cemented in under the blade ledge with JB-Weld which is plenty strong and works really well. You just have to be careful that the cement doesn't get above the ledge to avoid unnecessary filing. Also since the graver handles are slip on and friction fit the rod does not have to be threaded. The graver handles are pretty cool as well because they're flat on one side and help the planes to lay flat on their sides.
Craig Wilson
www.wilsonmandolins.com
Banjopicks, it's hard to say how long. The axe takes off large slivers the spokeshave has a small mouth so the thickest shaving is about 1.5 mm. It's biggest advantage is the handles don't get in the way and the curved sole goes right down into the recurve. When it comes to final definition of the domed shape its straight blade means never digging in and taking too much. I carve very close to the final shape and then give a quick blast with a palm random orbital sander with 120 grit disc. High and low spots are seen/felt immediately so the spokeshave can carve across the grain with no tearout and a planed finish. By drawing it diagonally the area at the tail and the neck are finished off and a swan neck scraper used for the recurve.
The blade can be set at an angle so one end can lift large amounts and the other end wafer thin shavings. Be careful using it this way when you rotate the top/back around to do the other side it will dig in when you forget which side has the strong cutting edge.
BTW the Lie Nielsen spokeshave has A2 steel blades so doesn't dull on maple and rehones on a leather strop very quickly. Don't confuse the spokeshave with a Boggs Spokeshave good for chairs and bows but the handles get in the way with close work.
Terry Cromer
I got this one from International Violin a few years ago and use it all the time. Note the roller on the front end.
Got a box of these palmable homemades, but prefer electrified grinding and hand scraping. Bought one of those drag types years ago, it has a thick coat of dust on it now.
Banjopicks,I salute your courage using the Lancelot. That is one nasty tool as far as I'm concerned. I use the Kutzall tool in an angle grinder. Much smoother going and hogs away wood fast. I've used the one I have for a couple of years,and it is worn down some,but still does the job. I can rough shape the outside of a plate in about twenty minutes and make the drilled holes on the inside disappear in about ten more. It doesn't take much of a slip to ruin a piece,but,so far,it's worked well for me. Bye the way,Bob Benedetto just slips a smooth wooden palm piece over the top of the blade in his Ibex planes.
Jim
Jim, I've been considering "downgrading" to the Kutzall. That looks a lot safer. Now that I've heard your opinion on it I may try one next time I get some extra cash for tools. I'd rather spend my extra cash on wood though.
Richard Hutchings
Speaking of angle grinders and the Lancelot cutter I use. If I ever get around to making a duplicarver, I'm going to mount my grinder and Lancelot instead of a router. I'll bet I could rough out a top or back in 5 minutes with it.
Richard Hutchings
hi beergeek,
I have a set of those spoon planes that I bought from St. James bay in AZ.
the blade width on my set is 3/4in.
I like them allright for rughing out tops & backs because they have
the longer handle and dont bother my wrists
I also have the 5/16in. violin plane from St. James, and I love that one
I use it alot for finish carving.
MandolinTim
New vedrsions of the old Stanley model makers (squirel tail) planes are being re-introduced by Lie-Nielsen at $65 each. The flat 100 is almost ready to ship and the round bottom 100 1/2 will ship in a few weeks or so.
New vedrsions of the old Stanley model makers (squirel tail) planes are being re-introduced by Lie-Nielsen at $65 each. The flat 100 is almost ready to ship and the round bottom 100 1/2 will ship in a few weeks or so.
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