String recommendations for old bowlback?

**michaelpthompson** · Feb-01-2011, 11:00pm

I've got a vintage bowlback I've been working to get into playable condition. I had first put on GHS Silk and Steel strings because that's what the fellow at my local music shop recommended as not having much tension. With all the messing about I've been doing, I managed to pull the mando in two at the neck. Not sure if it was the strings or just the fact that the neck was only held on by a half inch dowel and some glue in the first place.

I've now strengthened it with a bolt and got out the bow that used to be there at the joint. I put on some Jazzmando flatwound strings because of a recommendation on this board.

I'll see how it goes with those, but I thought I'd throw this whole thing out for advice. What strings would you put on an old bowlback and why?

BTW, for more info on this mandolin and what atrocities I've been committing on it, see my blog.

**JEStanek** · Feb-02-2011, 8:36am

Get those silk and steels off before you damage your mandolin. Unless it's a Japanese made bowl, it can't handle that kind of tension. Old American made bowls are much more delicate and can't handle medium gauge strings. Use the http://www.juststrings.com/ghs-a240.html instead or the TI lights. The TIs last a very long time.

Jamie

**Jim Garber** · Feb-02-2011, 10:21am

Jamie is correct on the strings.

You also need to recut your nut. The string spacing is way off. Each pair should be closer to each other. Find a well set up mandolin and copy that. Stew Mac makes a string spacing rule that would correct that.

**JEStanek** · Feb-02-2011, 12:26pm

The only reason I know about these is from Jim faithfully repeating the advice to us new bowl owners.

**michaelpthompson** · Feb-02-2011, 1:05pm

Originally Posted by Jim Garber

You also need to recut your nut. The string spacing is way off. Each pair should be closer to each other. Find a well set up mandolin and copy that. Stew Mac makes a string spacing rule that would correct that.

Thanks Jim and Jamie. The strings currently on there are the Jazzmando flatwound, not the Silk and Steel, which I removed after managing to break the neck joint with them. I strengthened it with a bolt and glued it back on, and I made the nut myself. The spacing issues were much more apparent in the photograph than when I was cutting the slots. I did intend the strings to be closer together.

I have the StewMac spacing ruler but so far it has baffled me. The instructions on their web site are almost entirely for guitar. The principles apply, but not the numbers. They don't deal with multiple course strings. I did find another article on their site where they do, but it also deals with specific numbers on a mandolin with a neck width of 1.1" Mine is just about one inch exactly. I tried a dozen times to figure out the differences on the ruler and finally just spaced them by eye instead. Obviously, my eye needs more practice.

I've ordered a new nut blank from StewMac (I'm pretty sure my slots are too low now to allow recutting the same blank.). I'll keep working on that ruler until it comes. Maybe I can figure it out.

Meanwhile, are the Jazzmando flatwound strings safe to leave on? My neck is actually stronger than it was before, and these do seem to use less tension than the silk and steels.

**michaelpthompson** · Feb-02-2011, 1:14pm

Originally Posted by JEStanek

Get those silk and steels off before you damage your mandolin. Unless it's a Japanese made bowl, it can't handle that kind of tension. Old American made bowls are much more delicate and can't handle medium gauge strings.

I've long since taken those off. The ones in the photo are the Jazzmando flatwound.

Use the http://www.juststrings.com/ghs-a240.html instead or the TI lights. The TIs last a very long time.

I've heard good things about the TIs, but I think I'll have to save up a bit for them. I ordered two sets of the GHS ones you mentioned. It's encouraging that they are specified to be good for the "Potato Bug" mandolins. And considering that I could buy four sets of these for the price of one set of the TIs, they would have to last an awfully long time to be worth that, wouldn't they? I probably will get some TIs later, but I've already spent money on tools and such getting this mando playable that I need to wait before spending that much on strings when there's a much cheaper alternative.

Thanks for all the help.

**Jim Garber** · Feb-02-2011, 2:43pm

I never use TIs on my bowlbacks, but that is just me. I prefer round wound strings and for the higher priced strings use Dogal Calace RW92bs (dolce) from Italy or Optima or Fisoma from Germany. I think for your bowlback the GHS ones would be just fine. No need to go overboard. It is not exactly a high end instrument.

For spacing on the nut, try this link which gives you some measurements. Frankly, you would think it would be easier to work in millimeters for such things, but whatever.

**michaelpthompson** · Feb-02-2011, 11:56pm

It would probably be easier to work in millimeters indeed, but so many of these things seem to measure in inches, and worse yet. decimal versions of inches. Seems like an odd mixture to me. That's part of the problem I had with the instructions on StewMac, giving a bridge width of 1.1 inches.

I looked at the link you mentioned, and I have seen it before. Problem is, it gives specific measurements for a nut width of 1 1/8 or wider, and mine is right around 1 inch. Do I still space in 1/16 from the edge? Are the bass strings closer to the edge than the treble ones? None of these guys answer this kind of question.