Looking for an inexpensive F style mandolin...

[Fstpicker]

I am looking to purchase an F style mandolin. However, the maximum that I would be able to afford is around $400 tops. I would have to sell my Mid-Missouri M-1 with a few upgrades to fund this purchase. Btw, the M-1 has a fabulous open sound and is quite loud.

Do any of you have any suggestions for a decent F style mandolin with at least a 1 & 1/8" nut width? I would want it to have at least a solid wood top, and if possible a solid back and sides, mahogany or maple, either one is fine with me.

Thank you for any suggestions you may have. I really appreciate this forum and the excellent advice it contains.

Jeff

[allenhopkins]

Rover RM-75 appears to get a lot of Cafe support. New it's between $400 and $450 generally w/case. Hand-carved solid spruce top, solid maple back and sides, decent if not sparkly appointments. Here's the Mandolin Store's listing, with sound clips.

Don't know the nut width, and can't find specs that detailed on-line. Were you to find a used RM-75, it would probably be right in your price range.

Absolute necessity of selling the Mid-Mo? Those are great instruments in their own right, and will have a different sound and feel from the Rover or other carved-top instruments. Talk to Santa; maybe he'll let you keep the M-1.

[Fstpicker]

Thanks Allen for the help and advice. I am familiar with a Rover, but not sure the width of the nut either.

Jeff

[Folkmusician.com]

Hi Jeff,

The Rover nut is 1-1/6th, and the string spacing is not utilizing the nut width. It is still the closest thing you are going to find.

I am not aware of any 1-1/8th nut F-styles that falls in your price range. Of note, if it is wider string spacing you are after, don't go by the nut width unless you plan to make or have a custom nut made. String spacing will be all over the place on the various mandolins. It is not uncommon for a mandolin with a 1-1/16th nut to have wider string spacing tan one with a 1-1/8 nut.

One of the large (OEM) mandolin factories started making mandolins with 1-1/8 nuts. A lot of brands are made at this factory, and we should start to see more mandolins with the wider nut.

[Fstpicker]

Robert,

What is your take on the Savannah SF-200? Is it 1 & 1/8" at the nut? How does it compare tonally to the Rover 75?

By the way, I was impressed with the set-up you do on all of your mandolins you sell. Note to self, keep your website as a "favorite" for future reference.

Thank you.

Jeff

[rf37]

Fstpicker

Dont overlook the Morgan Monroes. I am not here to help folkmusician sell at all but I have dealt with them and they are great people. I got a MMS8 from them last spring and I love it and it sounds great. You may pay a bit more for them but imo they are worth it (Check out the MMS5). I found a shop close to where I live and they have about 25 models on the wall and an all mahogony model that sounded sweet. I liked my MM so much I got my wife a distressed oval hole A and it is nice sounding to. Just my opinion but it is all about set up when it comes to these Pac Rim mandolins and folkmusicians set up was perfect on mine and not so perfect on my wifes that we bought from another vendor. (the only reason I did not get hers from folkmusician was because they did not have one in stock) Also...I would encourage you to call them and speak personallly to them. They will be a great help Just my opinion
rf37

[GRW3]

You can get a lot more A style mando, particularly used, for $400 than you can in an F. If the Bluegrass bullies are picking on you because you don't have a 'real' mando it is unlikely they will be impressed by any $400 F. If it's jam power you need, an f-hole A model will be provide the same power as the equivalent (company model not price) F.

[Ron McMillan]

You can get a lot more A style mando, particularly used, for $400 than you can in an F.

Amen to that. It's at the budget end of the mandolin range that the relative advantage of the best A for the money over the best F for the same money is at its greatest. It's no exaggeration that a $400 F mandolin is like a $200 A with a $200 curly bit added on that gives nothing but looks (and, often, at that price, not very good looks).

Even buying brand new, for just over $400 you can get a The Loar LM400 or a Kentucky 505 or a decent Morgan Monroe, all of which will sound and play far far better than any $400 F.


ron

[bmac]

Buy whatever you want but it might be wise to retain the Mid-Mo for its tone until you decide your new one surpasses the Mid-Mo tone wise.... Obviously the strap hanger on a "bluegrass mandolin" is important to you but it would be unfortuanate to gain the strap hanger and lose the tone.

If I happened to have spare money I would love to you a decent price for your Mid-Mo, but alas I am broke.

[Jim MacDaniel]

Consider used, especially if you can't live without a scroll. Used F-styles within your pricepoint often pop up in the cafe classifieds, and you will get more mandolin for money that way; likewise as others have pointed out, will going with an A-style. (But the latter is a Turkey and Swiss compared to the Pastrami that you ordered. )

[Jim]

+ 1 for RM75

[Fstpicker]

Thanks guys for all your help and advice. So, are you saying that a good quality A model with F holes will sound comparable to a more expensive F model? In other words, with all things being equal, a company's A model (with F holes) that is on the same level of appointments as their F model, that it will sound very similar tonally and have that F body shape bluegrass chop to it? It is the chop sound that I hear from an F model that I find very attractive and appealing. I don't get that with my round hole Mid-Missouri at all. Don't get me wrong, my M1 sounds very good with plenty of ring and sustain and resonance, but it doesn't have that tone that penetrated and projects out like I hear from an F model.

Is it more so that the F holes are more of a contributing factor to the overall sound than just the F model body shape with F holes vs. an A model with F holes?

This is news to me, and I will certainly consider it.

By the way, I still would be interested in anyone's personal experience/comments on what they think of the Savannah SF-200 all-solid wood F style mandolin. Thank you.

Jeff

[Douglas McMullin]

Jeff do some searching here, but the general opinion is that an F is nearly twice the cost of a comparably built A. If sound is your primary goal, you will get a lot more bang for your buck with an A. The projection & tone that it sounds like you are looking for comes from an arched top and back instrument with F holes, regardless of body shape (the body shape is almost meaningless when it comes to sound). Your M1 it is a very different instrument compared to an arched F or A with F holes (flat top, oval hole etc).

[John Gardinsky]

Keep the mid-mo. If you sell it and buy a $400 f-style you'll wish you had it back. I'd keep playing it and save up some cash for a good A style with f holes.

[Clement Barrera-Ng]

Is it more so that the F holes are more of a contributing factor to the overall sound than just the F model body shape with F holes vs. an A model with F holes?

This is news to me, and I will certainly consider it.

By the way, I still would be interested in anyone's personal experience/comments on what they think of the Savannah SF-200 all-solid wood F style mandolin. Thank you.

Jeff

As far as I can tell, and based on the feedback of others on the forum, the main contributing factor to the sound you're after is the F-holes and the carved top, both of which can be found on A and F style mandolins. The scroll on the F-style is often just a decorative feature and doesn't add much, if any, to the overall sound. If you're simply going after the sound and not the look, then as others have already said, you can get a lot more bang for your buck by choosing an A-style mandolin.

Some of the popular A styles that are in the price range are: The Loar LM-400, Kentucky KM-505, and the new Eastman 305. And as usual, buying used will get your a bit more as well.

As for the Savannah, I seem to recall that they are just OK mandolins, even though they are often advertised as being made by the same people who made 'The Loar'. I suspect that the likelihood of you being pleased with it, especially having played a Mid-Mo, will be close to nil.

[Andy Alexander]

A new $400 F model would most likely be a downgrade from what you are playing now. The only decent sounding, well built mandolin in the $400 price range that I can think of is the Stradolin. Many of them have solid spruce tops with f holes. Check through the classifieds.

[Markus]

In my opinion, scrolls on moderately priced mandolins are like spinner wheels on a Honda. Ornamentation seems strange when you're on a budget.

When I was shopping this summer, I was surprised at even at fairly high prices that the scrolled instruments costs significantly more for what plays and sounds to my ear to be about the same. No two instruments are alike - you could get lucky and have one that matches or betters an equivalently priced A-style ... it's not impossible, just less likely.

But what you're looking for it sounds like is the F-holes [and arched top/back] - giving the projection you associate with the chop, and the different tonal characteristics.

There's certainly differences between F and A styles ... but I'd think you're best off getting the most plain [but best playing and sounding] carved F-hole instrument in your hands. I'd rather have more resonance than more purling, that's what I'd hope my moderate pile of money was spent on when it was made.

[JeffD]

In my opinion, scrolls on moderately priced mandolins are like spinner wheels on a Honda. Ornamentation seems strange when you're on a budget.

Well said.

[Markus]

Well said.

I thought it an appropriate comparison as both scrolls and spinner wheels are enjoyable whatever their context.

I've seen some quite pretty scrolls on inexpensive instruments - I just wondered what that instrument would sound like with that time spent perfecting the gradations, fretboard, and bridge. I'd never say that in public, of course ... I love wood enough to admire that on it's own.

[Dave Cowles]

Jeff, I agree with the comments about f-hole A models having all the sonic goods (chop, projection,etc.) that an equivalent F style has, but for much less money. I've heard a Kentucky 505 and an Eastman 505, both of which would turn your head. Having said that I should add that both my mandolins have a scroll. One of them is a Rover RM75, and I can't praise it highly enough for a $400 mandolin. I haven't looked today, but there was one in the Cafe classifieds yesterday, and if it's still there you should jump on it.

Dave

[Markus]

Used can be the best option on a budget, provided an instrument in good shape.

My guitar came pre-dinged, allowing me to buy well above what I could get new. Ten years later I couldn't be happier, as most dings are mine.

[wellvis@well.com]

I'm very happy with my Rover RM-75. I'm only an occasional mandolin picker, but I really like the sound I'm getting out of it.

[Markus]

And in the end, that's the only thing the mandolin has to achieve.

Are YOU happy with it?

If so, good enough.

Anyone nice won't say anything if they don't like it - and anyone who wants to look down on it, you probably don't want to know anyway.

People think whatever they think, you'll never make everyone happy. If you are happy with the decision, that's the only opinion that really matters as it's the only one playing that mando.

When you're playing it and making it sing, I'm going to be looking at your fingers never the headstock.

[Fstpicker]

WOW! Some great advice guys!! Thank you sooooo much! I have definitely learned something today...that the F holes and the arched back (& perhaps a carved top?) are the defining factors in what makes the "chop" chordal sound that I am looking for. That is actually relieving to know this...that I don't have to have a F shape model, when an A model with F holes will do. Plus, I can get a better quality A mandolin for the money, which is pretty much the decisive factor in all of this.

You all have some incredible experience to help those of us who are relatively new to the mandolin world. Having been a guitar picker all of my life, the mandolin world is fascinating and intriguing, to say the least.

Jeff

[Remontoire]

I'm very grateful for the questions and the answers. I was trolling the web with some similar questions and found this current thread very informative. Thanks so much everyone.
Ian