Siminoff Book Builders

[angleraxel]

Hello all, #
#I'm still plugging away every so slowly, trying to satisfy the wife with renovations and get my other things caught up before the winter decides to blow us in. I've got the neck basically complete and so far so good. Next, I'd like to tackle the soundboard. In the Siminoff book he says to cut out the soundboard as per #pattern #4. I got a hard time finding these "patterns" he speaks of. I'm going to use drawing #12, that's the one with the contours. Is this the correct drawing? Do I cut out the soundboard right up to the edge or should I #leave some extra area around the pattern. Is the scroll section cut out at this stage or save that till later? Once I start carving the inside, do I just use the contour patterns to work with and then only use the measurements on drawing #12 for the work on the outside of the soundboard.

[ShaneJ]

Hi Jamie,

I'm barely ahead of you. I'm working on a top (actually a practice top) right now. I think it would be good to leave some extra wood around the edge - I didn't. I screwed a wood block to the bench to have something to push against while carving on the top. I havn't dinged up the edge yet, I'm not quite done. If you have extra wood, you can afford to ding the edges. I'm carving with chisels and a finger plane, and I don't want to hold the top with my left hand. When the chisel slips, I'd get chiseled. That's what the block is for.

I don't think it matters much which pattern you use to cut out the outline. They should all be the same. #12 has the thickness measurements on it. I carved the top first though, because I have wedge-shaped wood. You can use the contour (cross-section) patterns for inside and outside. Photocopy the drawings and cut pieces of plexiglass or something for the inside contour and another set for the outside contours. Pick a side to start on then use the other contour patterns to get close on the opposite side and then work on the measurements.

I'm sure somebody smarter than me can offer you more advice. I'm just a rookie too.

I've been wondering about when to cut the scroll too. Should I wait until the body is put together so all three pieces are cut at once, or cut each piece separately. I think the cutting would be easier done separately, but you'd have to cut accurately so they all match perfectly.

BTW, I'm a flyfisherman too. Never been Atlantic Salmon fishing, but I've tied a few salmon flies. I figured out though that if I were to aquire all the plummage needed for those, I'd have to sell my rods and reels or my mandos and guitars. Can't have that!

[Michael Lewis]

Do you have your body form? Make the rim assembly to conform to the body form, and make the top and back plates to conform to the rim assembly. If you can make a holder for the completed body you can cut the scroll all at once, otherwise you can do as I do, band saw the scroll when the top is glued to the rim assembly. That provides a flat surface to keep everything level when sawing. Shave a pencil so it will fit inside the scroll to mark the inside surface of the back plate. There are many ways and sequences to do all of this, just keep it neat and clean as you go.

[HoGo]

There is a list of patterns you should make at the beginning of actual making maybe he reffers to those numbers. Be careful when routing the inside with his method. He tells to use the graduation map on the inside and rout to those lines... It's wrong. Graduation map of thicknesses is different from the map of archings (which is not included in the book), especially on the back. If you are working with wood in wedge form do the outside first with the arching contours templates and then hollow and graduate from inside.
As Michael says the outlines of the body are same on all drawings.

[Stanley Cox]

Hello Jamie,
I know it is easy to get patterns an drawings mixed up. In Siminoff's book "Ultimate BG Mandolin Construction" he covers
this in Chapter 3 page 23. You have received good advice from
all the posters so far.
Stanley

[angleraxel]

Thanks Stanley, for the location of those patterns. Now for the rest of ya, you're scaring the dickens out of me! This carving of the top seems that it could go in so many directions. I'm worried about fouling things up, as this is my most expensive piece of material. Here is my plan of action(please advise me of any errors or suggestions).

1.Using pattern #4 cut out shape, leave 1/4 inch extra around body and do not cut scroll at this time.
2. Using only the body contour patterns shape out the inside of the soundboard.
3. Using body contours get top to nice symetrical shape.
4. Return to the inside to do the final graduations using only the thickness measurements.
*or*
skip step 2 and start with the outside right away, using the body contours. Then let the thickness measurements take care of the shaping of the inside.

#Do I have to know the size of the binding that is to be used, or can I simply take care of that detail during the routing stage after the body has been assembled?

[Michael Lewis]

Leaave as little extra wood outside the pattern as you can. Try for about 1/16". If your cut takes slightly inside the line it is OK because the binding will fill that area any way as long as you don't cut more than the thickness of the binding. Skip step #2 and shape the outside first. This way you will have the best opportunity for control of exterior contours.

[Flowerpot]

"skip step 2 and start with the outside right away, using the body contours. Then let the thickness measurements take care of the shaping of the inside."

I'm no expert, but I've done it both ways, and recommend what's in quotes here.

When you do the body contours, pay special attention to the curvature from the tailpiece up to the bridge area (like what you would see from a side view of the body). Don't be like me and make the top rise too quickly from the tailpiece to the bridge, and have your top crumple like an accordion from compression of string tension. On my first top, I was paying more attention to getting the side-to-side contours right, and neglected the critical lengthwise contour.

If you have a really nice piece of topwood, and it's your first carved top, I'd strongly suggest to practice on some cheap grade B stuff first. Takes time, but you don't want to make your mistakes on your best piece of wood! Trust me, I've been there, got two trashed tops to prove it... #3 was a charm.

[angleraxel]

That's a good idea. I' never thought about the contour from neck to tail piece. I suppose it will be handy to have a template of that one as well. What about the area where it meets the fretboard? Do you all think I should cut that straight across during my initial cut out or wait till after the carving has been done?