Thinning the neck on a The Loar LM-600

[Rick Cadger]

Someone has asked me to thin the neck on a The Loar LM-600.

I've not see the mandolin yet, but Gary tells me it's a very thick, deep, rounded neck. He wants a little bit more of a gentle V profile (not as much V as an Eastman or Kentucky) and would also like a little less depth front to back.

The V I'm totally happy to do, but not knowing how deep the truss rod is set in the neck I have no idea how much can safely be shaved off the back of the neck.

I think I've seen dealers say that they have reworked necks on The Loar mandolins, but I can't find the threads now I go to look.

Does anyone have any information on thinning the neck on a The Loar LM-600. How much margin do I have?

Thanks.

[Big Joe]

The 600's biggest problem for mandolin players used to a "regular" sized neck is not so much the depth as the shape of the neck. It is very thick on the wings of the neck and that makes it a bit uncomfortable for some. We have done a number of these. The easiest way to remove the finish is with a scraper. Once you get the finish out of the way you can either use the scraper to remove the excess wood or a wood rasp. Just be careful around the binding and leave a little room there. You can remove a bit of wood at the bottom of the neck but just go slow and I would not suggest going farther than 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch. That is really a lot of difference.

Once you get the wood off the back that you want, draw a center line from the center of the button on the back of the neck to the center of the neck on the back of the headstock. This will give you a reference line when you shape the neck for the "V" that you want and ensure you get an even amount of wood removed on each side. Then carefully remove the wood and shape it as you want from there. A rounded rasp or file will help feather in the area at the heel of the neck so it is smooth and symetrical there as well. Be careful not to go too far to the heel or you will have a problem getting it blended in properly.

Once you get it shaped like you want, and have checked and double checked that you have the shape you want and no ridges or deep spots, then you can begin to clean up the area. You can rid the file marks by using 100 grit sand paper, then migrate to 220, 280, then 400 grit and ensure that each grade eliminates the evidence of the previous grade. You can go farther, but it is not necessary.

If you are going to leave the neck "bare", then you will be ready to apply your finish material. You can use a little amber stain under the finish. Just wipe it on lightly and let it dry. You can add layers until you get the color you want. I would suggest just enough to give a little color to take the 'white' off the wood. Then use your french polish or other oil to give a bit of protection to the wood. It does not require a lot of finish. Let it dry, see if there is enough to do what you need. If you need a second coat, then apply it and let it dry. After it is fully dry then you can take and wipe it off first with some 0000 steel wool and then a good micro fiber cloth. Don't rub too much with the steel wool, just enough to smooth out the finish. Don't get the steel wool on the instrument or blow it off before rubbing the instrument with anything! Then wipe the area off with the microfiber cloth. It should look nice with a good satin sheen and feel like a million bucks and not be sticky like a finished lacquer would.

Between the finish removal and the reduction of the neck size it will make the mandolin feel incredible and I think your customer will be very thankful for your service. If you have any questions as you go through the process don't hesitate to contact me. If this is your first attempt at something like this just go slow and don't try to do too much at a time. It is always easier to remove more than it is to put it back on. Have fun. It is a bit of work, but will make a wonderful change to that instrument.

[Rick Cadger]

Joe, you're a gentleman and I'm grateful for the time you took to write such an excellent and detailed response.

I have done a couple of mando neck shape tweaks in the past and replaced the original finishes with a light oil. Both went very well, which is why the fella has asked me to do the neck on his The Loar. I've never taken anything off the actual depth of a neck before though. Even though you've been kind enough to provide so much info, I may still try to talk him into just having the slight V shaped in there rather than taking depth off.

Thanks very much indeed.