volume improvement via brdg replacement

**i-vibe** · Oct-20-2010, 3:22pm

well, i've gne thru most of the previous threads re. this topic...

i've got a '77 EPI BG440 oval hole that is a really fine playing instrument but a 90 lb. weakling int the volume dept.

the current bridge on it is well seated and properly adjusted so there's no room for improvement there.

it appears to be a generic ebony or possibly very dark rosewood brdg.

i'm not expecting any miracles but i suspect i can improve things some w a "better" brdg like a Sullivan old growth maple brdg or an ebony Cumberland.

any thoughts on which (if either) might be of more help?

**Giuliano** · Oct-20-2010, 3:32pm

Hi,
I had Big Joe replace the bridge on my Yellowstone with a Cumberland bridge. There was a dramatic improvement in tone and volume in the mid-range and highs and the bass was made a little less strong. Overall it seemed to bring a more balanced tone. I hope it would work for you, but you never know for sure.

**i-vibe** · Oct-20-2010, 3:42pm

thanks for the reply, guilano.

i've heard good (and similar) things about both Sullivan and Cumberland replacements. the volume is really where i'm looking to step it up, and i suspect it'll be at the cost of a little less bottom end.... something that mando really can't afford to give up.

everything is a tradeoff!

**mickey.cole** · Oct-20-2010, 4:10pm

look at RED HENRYS WEBSITE
THERE IS SOME GOOD STUFF THERE

**Big Joe** · Oct-20-2010, 5:25pm

A bridge may certainly help, but there may be other things that could affect volume as well. Without having it in hand I can't determine what your particular mandolin needs, but nearly any mandolin can be improved. The question is not can it be improved, but rather what has to be done to gain that. Then the cost can become a factor. Some things don't cost a lot... other things do. It all depends upon your particular instrument and what you want as an end result.

**Dave Cohen** · Oct-21-2010, 9:17am

If you really expect to increase acoustic volume with a bridge replacement, you will need to look for a lower mass bridge. A lower mass bridge won't decrease low-end response, but will increase higher-end response, shifting the balance of the instrument toward the mids and highs. There is an article in Frank Ford's Frets.com website about his experience making and using a very low-mass mandolin bridge (ca 3 grams). Also, Red Henry's bridges are much lower in mass than the conventional adjustable-type bridges. They weigh in at a little above 6 grams, as opposed to a typical Gibson-type adjustable mandolin bridge weighing in at 14-16 grams, depending on the sample of ebony used.

Since your current bridge is well-fitted to the top plate, the common advice of a better fit won't be of any help to you. The main drawback to using one-piece bridges such as the Red Henry or Frank Ford examples is that you have to get them to fit your mandolin and your specific action requirements. Not as simple as just raising or lowering a coupla thumb wheels. Also, I'm not making any promises here. If the top and back plates on your mandolin are especially heavy and/or unresponsive, there is only so much that decreasing the brdige mass can do. Not much harm or cost involved in trying a lighter bridge though.

http://www.Cohenmando.com

**Paul Hostetter** · Oct-23-2010, 12:28pm

One thing that's not been mentioned is that this mandolin's top is (probably) pressed, and thereby has inherent major limitations in terms of volume and complexity of tone. Of course the bridge needs to be checked, if not changed. Perhaps the most you can expect is what will come of improving the fit of the existing bridge to the top.

These mandolins were also sold under the Aria, Ibanez and El Degas brand names, probably others. The "Made in Japan" ones were usually pressed tops, the later production shifted to Korea and those had laminated tops. The ring of binding inside the soundhole prevents easy detection of which is which, but neither iteration is likely to compete with real carved instruments.