Anyone have any experience with Pyramid Gold Pure Nickel Flat Wound Mandolin strings? I'm currently using Thomastick starks, but I'm curious about these.
Thanks,
MikeT
Anyone have any experience with Pyramid Gold Pure Nickel Flat Wound Mandolin strings? I'm currently using Thomastick starks, but I'm curious about these.
Thanks,
MikeT
Haven't tried the mando strings, but the electric guitar strings are a total revelation-they sound nothing like the dull, rubbery US made flatwounds- they have a great character on attack, and actually sustain not unlike roundwounds, but have that smooth feel; they also last forever between string changes without going dead (and again, they don't start dead like most flats)- now I'm curious!
Okay. I just stimulated the dadburn economy!
Will report later.
Phil
“Sharps/Flats” ≠ “Accidentals”
I'm intrigued too. I'd love to hear a review that compares these against the JazzMando flat wounds.
BRW SP-H3 2 point
BRW LP-H3 2 point
Weber Bighorn oval hole
Weber Bighorn Mandola
Weber Octar D-hole
-------------------
"The creative is the place no one else has ever been... What you will discover will be wonderful; it will be yourself." Alan Alda
A little off topic perhaps - but I am new to mando (old acoustic guitar player). What is the attraction of flat wound strings? I remember them from my teenage years and electric guitar. How to they sound on a mando compared to normal wound strings? Is there a particular style or genre that they are best for or are they seen as general purpose strings? Should I give them a try?
Rob G.
Vermont
Rob, flatwounds are generally considered more of a "jazz" string than a "grass" string. They have less cutting power and high treble overtones (at least IMHO) than roundwounds, and also less percieved volume, which is one reason you won't find many dedicated 'grassers playing them. On the plus side, they have a beautiful, "round" tone that's great for solo and small group stuff, and they're MUCH easier on the fingers! Great smooth feel. Hope this helps!
Mitch Russell
Slightly off topic.....
FYI The Pyramid regular (non flatwound strings) for electric guitar are absolutely fantastic as well
http://www.pyramidstrings.com/st-guitar1.html
Rob,
What Mitch says about flatwounds is fundamentally true. That said, I love 'em. I play in a band that does a variety of music including Bluegrass. For a long while, I used Elixer mediums then experimented with lights. Then I decided to try JazzMando flatwounds. The tonal difference is a revelation. What they may lack in banjo spanking ability they make up for in spades in tonal finesse and playability. In addition, I find that I can play faster on flatwounds. My take is that picks and strings are a relatively low cost way to experiment and grow musically. String choice (picks too) is highly subjective stuff. Find out what's best for you.
BRW SP-H3 2 point
BRW LP-H3 2 point
Weber Bighorn oval hole
Weber Bighorn Mandola
Weber Octar D-hole
-------------------
"The creative is the place no one else has ever been... What you will discover will be wonderful; it will be yourself." Alan Alda
I'll give them a try - I doubt I'll ever be a hard core BG guy. In fact, I suspect I will mostly be playing Celtic - and who knows, maybe even some blues/jazz stuff. Sounds like these might be nice for Celtic - except for the volume issue when playing unplugged.
Just took a look on line - $38 for a single set. Yikes. Have to wait for my tax refund. I pay that for 5 sets of regular PB wound Curt Mangans which are great strings. Three sets and I'd have spent enough to buy the new pick up I'm looking at. How long do these things last?
Rob G.
Vermont
Wow. $38 a set is as much as Thomastiks, which I had supposed wre the top o' the heap. Guess I won't be trying these out anytime soon!
Rob- If you want to try some less expensive flatwounds, Jazzmando JM 11's are about $14.95 a set. They've lasted me 2+ mos of pretty heavy playing, and even then it was the A course dying. Ted has put an extra set of A's in the last two sets I've gotten, so all I did was change the A's. I think they're well worth trying.
Mitch Russell
That $38 figure is for a set of Pyramids. No way I'm dropping that kind of coin on strings. But yes, $15 I can do. I'll order a set today and try them out.
Rob G.
Vermont
Thanks for helping Obama with the economy, Phil! If these are any louder than the Thomastiks, I'll be helping too.
Looking forward to hearing your report,
Mike T
I just put a set of Jazzmando JM11s on my mandolin. The sound is so crisp and clean. Easier to play than D'Addario J74s too.
I figure if I'm putting down several hundred or thousand dollars for an instrument, what's $38 for a set of strings? My next string change will be the Thomasteks. I'll probably try every light gauge string on the market before I'm done.
Carolyn
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www.colonialdevelopmentcommission.com (a website I moderate)
I like the Labella Flatwounds MF20 with the wound A string- same maker as the Jazzmando JM11 sets, just has the wound A which is nice, There were some initial problems when they first came out with breakage, but I think they worked out the kinks.
Teri LaMarco
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that's right! When trying to stop string breakage, the first thing you need to do is get rid of the kinks!
Sorry, I couldn't resist,
MikeT
Wound A may be OK if you get your volume from the pickup and amplification , if you are used to
laying into the strings with the picking force , they will break in a day or hour or 2.
Core wire is a tiny gage. wound A is for Pianissimo players.
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is like dancing,
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I'm a rank beginner, but on the strength of some things I've read about the Thomastik strings, I have ordered a set of the Mittels from a local guitar store. They're due in soon (they don't stock them, but I try to deal through local brick&mortar places where it's feasible to do so) and I'll get to hear the difference on my Breedlove KO mando. It's a recent purchase. Although the strings are looking a bit tarnished, the sound is still good, so I may keep the old strings another few weeks. But I'm looking forward enough to hearing the difference that I'll probably not try to squeeze the last bit of life out of the strings it came with. They're who knows how old, anyway.
To address one of the earlier questions about "why pick flatwounds?" I could mention my Dad's opinion of years ago that he didn't like the sound of fingers sliding across the round-wound strings. He used flatwound electric guitar strings on his Gibson archtop.
You live and you learn (if you're awake)
... but some folks get by just making stuff up.
Michael T.
for me
different strings work differently on different instruments
i like Thomastik starks on my Shutt
and J74s on my Givens
Pyramid light roundwounds on my Jazzmaster and Thinline
Martin XP+ light on my Noble and my Sand
XP custom light on my Tippen
etc
i've got a set of the Thomastik mittles and the Pyramid gold middles for mandolin that i haven't tried yet
i'm thinking they might work on an old A
What is the most common choice by players for the diameter of the G string?
I have found that there is quite a spread of choices of diameters available for that string and I'm not sure "why."
Please don't just say "personal preference" or "Genre".........I'm requesting specifics.
Thanks,
Breedlove Crossover FF SB
“The weather was so bad even my iPhone was shaking!”
-SDC
Going back to the Pyramid flat wounds, I have two questions. Where can you buy them? And in a light gauge set, does anyone know what the string diameters are? I love Thomastiks on my Strad-o-lin but wouldn't mind a bit brighter sound with the smooth feel and without going back to phosphor and bronze. Also it might be interesting to try these on my Phoenix as well.
Breedlove Crossover FF SB
“The weather was so bad even my iPhone was shaking!”
-SDC
Okay guys. Reporting back.
Elderly got the Pyramid 532 strings to me within 48 hours of my ordering. Wow!
I got the "heavy" which is gauges: 11, 15, 22, 32. Link
I put them on my Elliott which is light and plays much like a Phoenix (just for comparison).
At first, my D strings had a rattle on frets 1-5 which didn't make any sense. Even raising the bridge didn't help. Other strings were okay.
Being the patient person I am (not!), I hung up the mando for the night. This morning everything is perfect. Overnight miracle? Just new strings settling in, I suspect.
Anyway, the strings feel and play just like Thomastiks (which I had on this mando till 2 weeks ago when I wanted to try some EXPs).
The sound is definitely brighter to my ear than the TIs were at any time. It's not the very bright or metallic sound you hear with the usuals, J74s EXPs, etc. but brighter than TIs.
So right now, I like them a lot. We'll see how they wear. They will definitely need to sound good 3 months from now to justify the price. I'll try to remember to report back periodically.
Phil
“Sharps/Flats” ≠ “Accidentals”
Okay. 2 more days have passed. New report.
My D course of Pyramid heavies began rattling again.
Nothing I did helped, including putting paper under the string grooves in the nut, not raising the action at the bridge.
As an experiment to be sure the problem did not lie with my mandolin, I replaced the D course with some old TI's I had taken off and saved.
Rattle gone!!
It's interesting to compare adjacent strings: Pyramid G course and TI D course. The Pyramids feel much softer. Feels like lots less tension in the string and the string seems more flexible compared to the adjacent TI.
That might be the probem: the Pyramid D strings might have a wider vibratory range with a given energy input from the pick and therefore hit the frets easier.
Whatever. I'll play the Pyramid set with TI D course for a while, but I don't think I'll use Pyramids on THIS mandolin in the future.
Maybe I'll put the Pyramid D course on a different mando soon and see if the same problem occurs.
Phil
“Sharps/Flats” ≠ “Accidentals”
I don't think you mentioned it, but are you using the heavy guage Pyramid strings? Apparently they come in 3 flavors, like the Thomastiks. If you got the softer ones that could account for the buzz.
MikeT
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