mandolin for celtic or bluegrass

[abelville]

Hi again,

In a earlier post I was interested in ideas for an Asian made "A" style with "F" holes.

I do want to be able to learn Celtic on the same mando.

1. Would a Kentucky 250 to 380 work for both?

2. If I want to sway more to Celtic, are the Mid Missouri's a good sounding instrument? (I hear they are US Made)

3. Should I think more on the lines of an octave mando for Celtic?

Thanks Much!

Al B.

[neal]

Any person new to the mandolin should be looking for playability. #Let me say that again. PLAYABILITY. # Bob Devellis had a comment on this in a post I can't find, and he's right on.

This means that it's going to be easy to play and you'll want to come back and practice. #Can you play celtic with F holes? #Yes, most definately. #Can you play bluegrass tunes on an A-style oval hole? #Yes, most definately. # As you progress, your sense of tone, volume and what you really want will become evident. #So a good start is a MidMo, you can always recoup your money when you look to re-sell. #A Kentucky 380 has gotten good reviews here also.

I have an F5 style Morris (Japanese-'82-F-hole) and a 20's Gibson A-Jr-oval hole, and both are good for either. # #Now if I'm in a jam and want to cut thru, the f-holes will help out a bit. #Also in a celtic jam, the f-holes will be louder, and one can really use either. #

But again, as a new player, and I'm assuming here(oh,oh), go for playability as your first concern, you won't be able to tell the difference this early on.

Octaves are fun, but more expensive sometimes, and in my opinion a little more limited, my suggestion would be go with a MidMo, learn it, and compliment your collection later on with an octave.

Good luck and have fun! #Neal

[mandroid]

If you can get a decent setup done on the mandolin of your choice, it will make its playability improve [stuff like round and polish fret ends minor adjustment of nut notches, and bridge slot, shape the top edge of the bridge some, particularly if arch on the fretboard, and flattop bridge is fitted.

[fatt-dad]

You can check my ad in the classifieds or go to my web page for several Asian made A-style mandolins with f-holes. I think they all play real fine. I will also donate 5 percent of any sale to the plucked string foundation to support this here web page's fundraising goals.

I know it's a shamless plug, but what the heck.

fatt-dad
www.fatt-dad.com (follow links to get there)

[8ch(pl)]

if you wish to play both Celtic and Bluegrass, you should look at an A model with F sound holes, just like fatt-dad is selling. A flat top is certainly good for Celtic, but not Bluegrass. It is especially suited to chords with open strings, but chop chords are not well suited to a flat top.

[Stephen Perry]

I just had a bunch of players try the Eastman A with F holes. Sold in less than a day. Might try to find one of those. I'm putting in an order for more today. Really liked it compared to the Asian big-factory stuff. Even compared to US handbuilt stuff.

Steve

[mandorado]

I don't know about the "A" is better for celtic theory. Donovan seems to make this sweet Weber Bitterroot work just fine for celtic and more.
Donovan McCain
I just happen to know there is an excellent Bitterroot for sale in the classifieds too.

[danb]

Golden advice- buy a Gibson Ajr oval-hole for around $800-1000.. best deal for the loot and will crush any of the ones you list above. Go ahead, get one with scratches. The tone will light up your life..

[neal]

Pretty big jump in price from a Km380 or 250 to a Gibson A, although I feel it's worth it in spades. # Never did hear a price limit from you Abelville.

Dan, you miss your old Gibson, don't you?

[danb]

Neal.. I miss that jr, sure. I needed to shuffle around a bit. I kind of practice "catch and release collecting", heh. At the moment I have a 3-point F2, and I'll soon have a snakehead A & an Ajr (both 1923) in my mitts. I'll 99% likely keep the snakehead and sell the jr to a friend.

Seriously though, the Ajrs you can pick up under a grand (if beat up or refinished) are the single best cash/sound value you can get. I'm not alone in thinking that the jrs are the best sounding of the oval-hole mandos..

[64lusso]

plus the old A's will be worth whatever you paid for them when you want to sell, however as someone new to mandos paying close to a grand for an instrument you know nothing about might be a little scary unless you can find someone who knows what he's looking at and you trust to help with the selection.
Back to the orignal question I would avoid the cheap Kentucky, it's what I started on and was playable but not an inspiring thing to play in any sense of the word and don't even think about the octave mando until you've got some time and experience with both the mandolin and the music you really want to play under your belt.

[fatt-dad]

My Gibson A-3 is on my not-for-sale list, that's for sure. It was the first mandolin that I bought (got a good deal on a separated one and knew a luthier), but the "risk" was well worth it. It returned to life just fine, (needless to say) kept its value and is the only mandolin that I have with the wide nut (sometimes it's just so nice to play that thing) and the "sound". What I do not know is how much variation there is between the "trim" lines (i.e., the A-jr, A-0, A-1, A-2, A-3, A-4)? I mean, I love the look of the Amana white finish and the matching pickguard, but that is not what makes it a unique instrument when I play it. It's the sound and the wider fretboard.

(Ever tried those FT-74s on your old Gibson A? I think they are real nice on it.)

f-d

[Unseen122]

I vote for the Kenticky 380 it is a great deal and you could play both styles on it although I find it bett er for ITM (Irish Taditional Music).