Tailpiece adjustment

**walt33** · Dec-10-2009, 1:04pm

I recently noticed that the tailpiece on my Kentucky A touches the top at the "string end." That doesn't seem right; I'd think it should be clear of the top, and generally parallel to the surface.

It's a stamped tailpiece; probably not a good idea to try and bend it while it's attached, eh?

Walt

**mandroid** · Dec-10-2009, 1:37pm

A part of the price point.. reduced costs, is lack of setup,
[unless the dealer does it in preparation for putting it in the Retail customer's hands] .
Expect the factory worker took the Tailpiece as it was, and put it on, as it came out of the parts bin,
there may have been someone that did only that , put on tailpieces one after another , all day long .

tailpiece base should follow the line of tension of the strings coming down from the bridge.

should have been part of the retailer's prep-setup ,

but if a warehouse shipper .. that may be how it was when put in the container to go on the ship. and they didn't open the box , just put the pallet of product on a shelf , in the warehouse.

yea, take the piece of metal off the body first, the part could have been put on askew too,
people have reported that.

**walt33** · Dec-10-2009, 1:54pm

Thanks for confirming my suspicions. I bought it used, AND had a setup done, and just noticed this, now. Guess that's what I get for having a setup done by a guitar guy. I'll work on it over my Christmas vacation.

**Michael Lewis** · Dec-11-2009, 1:21am

As stated previously, the tailpiece should line up with the strings from the top of the bridge to the edge of the binding where the tailpiece mounts. If the TP is touching the top it is quite possible the top is distorting and pushing up between the bridge and tail block. That is a problem.

**8ch(pl)** · Dec-11-2009, 5:06am

They should have used a shim laid under the tailpiece to keep it parallel while it was being attached. This would be a ligitimate use for 1/8 in plywood!

**walt33** · Dec-14-2009, 12:43pm

Well I couldn't wait until vacation next week, so over the weekend I took the strings off, removed the tailpiece, and re-bent it. Unfortunately, I forgot exaggerate the angle a bit to allow for string pressure, so it still touches the top, ever so slightly, but much less than before. Guess next week I'll do it again and get it right.

While I had it apart, I cleaned off the top, fingerboard, and peghead, put a new set of D'Addario J74's on, and moved the bridge a bit to improve the intonation from what it had been. I think it sounds better, even with the tailpiece touching slightly. But then, I've always been a sucker for a placebo.

I noticed that, while the bridge seems to sit pretty solid and I can't slip a scrap of newspaper but maybe 1/32" under the feet, the underside of the bridge feet appeared to be sanded in some places, and smooth(er) in others. But as I said, it sounds pretty good so I probably won't mess with fitting the bridge.

Thanks for the tips and suggestions,

Walt

**Dave Weiss** · Dec-14-2009, 3:22pm

I used my pick to pry the tailpiece a little, worked just fine. Don't use a Red Bear

**walt33** · Dec-14-2009, 3:31pm

Mmmm, well I used a small screwdriver to pry it up a bit more after installation, and I've got the divot to prove it. :-( Wasn't going to mention that!

**pops1** · Dec-15-2009, 8:57am

I had one that the tailpiece touch the top and no matter what i did it wanted to stay that way so i ended up putting a small dowel under the tail piece near the edge so it sits on the tail block and holds it up off the top. Sounded better and stayed there.

**mandroid** · Dec-15-2009, 12:15pm

With a ruler /straight edge the base of the TP should be in line with that line to the bridge , , bend the angle till it is , by hand, while it is off, [Oops on making the divot, doing such, while it is on]

NB the little piece of wood on the very tail end of the top,
is what Violin makers have done for many a century,
those tailpieces are held on with a cord around their end button ..

**walt33** · Dec-15-2009, 6:57pm

Originally Posted by mandroid

the base of the TP should be in line with that line to the bridge , , bend the angle till it is , by hand, while it is off

Yeppers, did that initially, but after the strings were on and brought to tension, it dipped a little and is touching slightly. Soooo, gotta take it apart again and "overbend" it just a tad so the angle will be better with the strings on.

I think the divot adds character. Does yours have one?

Now, where are those Scotchbrite pads????

**mandroid** · Dec-15-2009, 7:12pm

The way it's mounted, the holes in the end of the mandolin may need drilling new and plugging the old.

May create conflict with the end pin hole location, but That can be plugged and re-drilled too .

It's just wood.