Wood nut

[ngzcaz]

So.......... why not ? Tonal qualities should
be similar to the maple, ebony or rosewood bridges
so why arent they being used ?


As we used to say in the 50's. " If it doesnt run,
chrome it "

[TommyK]

When you say 'bridge' do you mean the wooden part glued to a flat top? If so, the strings don't bear on the bridge, but the saddle made of bone or other hard material. If you're talking about the wooden saddles used on Arch tops, it begs the question: How long do they last before the strings cut into them? strings gotta be free to move side to side, as I understand it.
Give the wooden nut a whirl, just use a hard wood like Maple. Let us know how it works out.
Maybe this thread would be better posted under the 'repairs' forum.

[Big Joe]

Some have used Ebony. The problem with wood is that it is too soft and the motion of the string in the nut will erode the nut slots and cause problems with intonation and tuning. In addition, the wood is not as hard as bone or pearl. That will result in a more muted tone. Wood have not served well in that capacity.

[Chris Baird]

I wouldn't say ebony gives a more "muted" tone. It is a more mellow tone. I use an ebony nut sometimes when stringing mandolins up in the white. Bone sounds better to me but I can see putting an ebony nut on a mandolin that was too harsh in the treble range. As for premature wear I'll wait to hear from someone that has actually experienced that before I believe it. I've never heard of the bridge slots wearing away. But, I suppose there could be more string movement over the nut as it is more "anchored". Violin nuts are almost exclusively ebony. And, yes a violin isn't a mandolin.

[ngzcaz]

Big Joe,

All that makes sense but the question remains why are
bridges made out of wood ? Seems the strings have to
slide on that as well ?? I dont recall any posts saying
people had to replace their ebony or rosewood bridges
because the string cut into them rendering them unusable.
The tone issue is a valid one. It would be interesting
in finding out what it would sound like. Of course, that
same logic would dictate that one does not use wood for
either the nut or the bridge. In fact it may be less
desireable for a wooden bridge if one whacks the strings as hard as I do. The hand motion is much closer to the bridge that it is to the nut.. I only had high school physics so my assumption could ( and probably is ) in error.
Higher priced mandolins should be able to absorb the cost factor. Lower priced mandolins could offer it as an upgrade. Seems impossible that no one has tried a wood
nut and had some kind of write up about it.

[TommyK]

Yes Violins are a totally different instrument. Gut strung with less tension, and the bridge much higher puting less compression on the nut and saddle (which, on a violin, is at the button end, totally detached from the bridge)

I think I earned a "C" in physics, so consider the source.
Try this school of Hard Knox experiment: On your mando, take your finger and lift a string off to the saddle / bridge. Then try to lift the string out of the nut slot. My educated, "C" average, observation is the nut is under much more compression than the bridge and needs to be harder.
If you are in to experimention and tinkering with your mando for the sake of tinkering, go for the ebony nut and see how it sounds if you like it keep it. If not opt for something you can dig.

Dull and muffled or mellow and full
Bright or piercing
turn it up or "Turn that d**n thing down!"

It's all a matter of perspective and personal preference.

[Big Joe]

The strings on the nut come from a different angle and tension. There must be a very stable platform to keep the action proper. In addition, the tone seems very dull. It has been used in the past, usually by low end mandolins. If you wish to try one, go ahead. It won't hurt anything. If you like it then fine. The strings used on a mandolin give more wear to the nut than to the bridge. When the strings are tuned the string moves through the nut more than across the bridge. This does cause more wear. In addition, the phosphor bronze strings do cause friction wear in the nut.

In addition, the whole thing about tradition forcludes a wood nut. However, I think if I were going to do a wood nut it would be a much denser wood than ebony. Maybe something like Pink Ivory. It might look odd, but it is dense! Just my thoughts.

[SternART]

My Gilchrist F5C Classical came with an ebony nut, as did a wonderful Doug Woodley A model, and I just put one on my Lawrence Smart oval hole 2 point.

I've experimented with bone on the Gilchrist, which is brighter in the treble, and now prefer that. I think you can fine tune an instrument's tone with these options. I've experimented with bone on top of the bridge saddle on a few mandos as well.

[neal]

My Gibson A-Jr has an ebony nut. It's about 85 years old and it's still holding, but not that well, as with any wood, it'll wear down and I'm starting to have a little "click" trouble tuning the A string, so maybe it's time for bone. Sounds real mellow open though.

I read a post here not long ago about the same topic, some prefer ebony for the nut.

[mandroid]

my formerly owned, Martin bowlback came as ebony nut, wood chipped out between a pair of strings, only, i guess, took 90 years.

[TommyK]

"...All that makes sense but the question remains why are
bridges made out of wood ?..."

My guess is that for an arch top instrument the bridge has little feet on the bottom that form to the shape of the inconsistently (from one instrument to another) arched top. Making it out of a rigid material like bone or Tusq would make the arched top form to match the feet. i.e. Foot print divots in the arched top. On the plus side, the bridge would tend to stay put in the holes they've dug.