Love my Eastman, but . . .

[rsgars]

I changed strings for the first time and getting the loop ends off of the tailpiece was a major annoyance. Tremendous potential for marring the tailpiece, or even worse, the mando.

Am I missing something, or does anyone have a technique for removing the old strings that might be helpful in the future?

Thanks,
Rob

[mandroid]

How about tools ? you have a small pair of needle nose pliers?
And perhaps just cut each wire, wire cutters , one at a time , deal with the part around the capstan on the tuner separately.
Then the part you pull from the tailpiece is straight, rather than all curled up as it was around the tuner.. and has less likelyhood of scratching ..

lay a piece of paper under the tailpiece to really cover the top finish..

one at a time , Or you will have to figure out exactly where the bridge was.

[JEStanek]

I do what Mandroid suggests with my Eastman and my other instruments. I remove the strings and replace one at a time. Loosen at the post then snip with wire trimmers and push the string off the tail piece. When threading the new string through the tail piece, I use the paper packet under the tailpiece so the string end doesn't gouge the top. I've also found that once the loop is on the tail piece post, it's much easier to wrap the string and tighten if I clamp it down with a capo.

Frankly, you can restring without these techniques but they make it faster, easier, and less stressful for me. I also use this method from Frets.com for restringing. Even still, doing it this way takes me about 20-30 minutes. I don't restring too often though.

Jamie

[Rob Gerety]

After I had restrung my Eastman a few times (it was my first experience with restringing a mandolin) I became accustomed to it and I've not had any real problems. As far as removing the stings from the tail piece that really was never a problem for me. I remove the string from the tuner post and then grab the string a few inches back from the tail piece and push the loop off the hook. I usually place an empty string sleeve under the tailpiece to be sure I don't scratch the finish of the mando. I think after you do it a few times it will smooth out.

[Pete Braccio]

Hi Rob,

Are you asking for restringing advice or are you having an issue with just your tailpiece?

Pete

[rsgars]

It really was just getting the loops off of the tailpiece. They did not want to come off. Finally I got a nice stout toothpick (wood) and used it to pry them off. They were the original strings that came on the mandolin, so maybe they had just been on there a bit too long.

[Pete Braccio]

Hey Rob,

I have trouble getting the strings on and off of tailpieces like the Eastmans. I think that you came up with a good way for getting them off. You might also want to get the strings off the tuning posts first and then push the from the bridge side of the tail piece back to try and get them off the tailpiece.

Sometimes you may need to bend the loop up a bit or widen the loop to get 'em on. A pair of needle nose pliers works well for this.

I like Jamie's suggestion from above about putting the string envelope down as a shield when sliding the strings through the tail piece.

Pete

[Ravenwood]

The first time I changed strings on my 504 I borrowed one of my wife's plastic crochet hooks to pull a stubborn loop off the tailpiece. I still haven't given the crochet hook back.

[JEStanek]

A trick I sometimes use to get a fresh loop onto those beefier tailpiece studs is opening the loop by spreading them with a pencil tip. Then they go on, no problemo. A side note, with the thicker stud on the Eastman/Weber style tailpieces, I don't need a capo or extra finger to keep the string on the stud while I negotiate the tuning peg.

Jamie

[Steve Perry]

The first time I changed strings on my 504 I borrowed one of my wife's plastic crochet hooks to pull a stubborn loop off the tailpiece. I still haven't given the crochet hook back.

Crochet hooks are also good for stretching out new strings at changing time. Just hook the string at the 12th fret and pull up a couple of times.

[mandowilli]

Bunch of yellow bellies. Yank em off.

[jim_n_virginia]

Crochet hooks are also good for stretching out new strings at changing time. Just hook the string at the 12th fret and pull up a couple of times.

Hah! thats a good idea! LOL! Learn something new everyday on the Cafe!

I usually just pinch the strings and gently pull up to stretch them out but the hook idea sounds a lot easier! Guess I'll be visiting my Mom this week! LOL!

[jim_n_virginia]

I changed strings for the first time and getting the loop ends off of the tailpiece was a major annoyance. Tremendous potential for marring the tailpiece, or even worse, the mando.

Rob

yeah needle nose and wire cutters work. Sliding a cloth under the strings protect the top. Getting a cast tailpiece will solve your problem too. I had a Weber solid cast tailpiece on my old Flatiron and it doesn't get any easier than that.

http://www.soundtoearth.com/products.php?cat=5

But really like anything as you gain more experience changing the easier it gets. i can now change out my strings pretty fast now with nothing but my fingers and a crank for the tuners.

[Andy Fielding]

My wife says I have a talent for the obvious, but:

On my Eastman, I've noticed the tailpiece pegs are close enough that the string loops can overlap, even when they're tightened to pitch. So part of your problem may simply be that an adjacent, tightened string is holding down the one you're trying to remove.

If that's the case, try this (working from either the treble or bass side):

1. Loosen string 1 and 2, then remove and replace string 1.

2. Loosen string 3, then remove and replace string 2.

...and so on.

This also keeps enough strings tightened so your bridge doesn't move. (Ever hear of the bassist who got mad at his kid? The kid had turned one of his tuners, and wouldn't tell him which one.)

Cheers, Andy

[lgc]

I didn't like the eastman tail piece at all. I changed mine out for a more gibson style one.

[Andy Fielding]

I didn't like the eastman tail piece at all. I changed mine out for a more gibson style one.

For what it's worth, the tailpieces we're discussing here are the nice cast (not stamped) ones that come standard on Eastmans—a feature usually found on higher-end mandos.

Do whatever you like, but I'd just as soon not spend an extra $100 or so on another cast tailpiece when I already have one that works just fine and—to me, at least—looks plenty good.



As you can see in the photo, the peg area is compact by design. As long as you use the method I described for replacing the strings, you should have no problem removing the loops.

[Mattg]

It really was just getting the loops off of the tailpiece. They did not want to come off. Finally I got a nice stout toothpick (wood) and used it to pry them off. They were the original strings that came on the mandolin, so maybe they had just been on there a bit too long.

Dental picks!! Strings get stuck in my eastman tailpiece too. I use a thin dental pick to pry the loop off. No scratching. I use them for all kinds of other stuff as well. I usually loop the smaller gauge strings through the hole in the post twice and the dental pick helps pull that free too.

I have a bro in law who is a dentist and he gives me spares. I'm sure that I've seen assorted picks in hobby and woodworking stores.

[telcontar]

I use a pair of 4½" Chain Nose Pliers made by BeadSmith. Think needle nose pliers but way smaller, and without teeth.

For removing strings with loops that won't unhook from the tail-piece I'm able to grab the loop right at the hook (see picture below) and work it from that angle. It's more effective than trying to push the string through from the bridge side and I don't have to run the risk that comes with using a metal tool near the mandolin's top.
They work just as well for widening loops on new strings too. (I'm hooked on D'Addario EXP's and they have these crazy, TINY loops that get smaller as the strings get thicker!)

Makes string changing on my Eastman 615 a (relative) breeze. Check 'em out. You can find them at hobby stores in the beading section or, for example, this site Fire Mountain Gems.com