John, What brand/type of sprayer are you using in the video? Also, If you pad on shellac afterwards (not sure you do) how do you keep the alcohol from moving the color around?
John, What brand/type of sprayer are you using in the video? Also, If you pad on shellac afterwards (not sure you do) how do you keep the alcohol from moving the color around?
That's a Badger airbrush. Nothing fancy. (I've used other brands that I like better, but I bought this one before I knew any better, and it does the job.)
I spray shellac to seal. First coat just a mist and let it dry a bit. That locks the colors in place, then another light coat or two and that's it.
John Hamlett
www.hamlettinstruments.com
John, what type of alcohol do you thin the colors with? Behlens?
Thanks,
Newbie Kenny
I ask because Charlie Derrington said "I think I have already answered this question. I don't like the Behlen's. In reference to the oil question: Always use a sealer (shellac works good) before applying oil. Remember, each coat will be a mechanical bond (non-chemical) and as you apply each coat, the previous has to be scuffed to accept the next. We used to brush the oil varnish but I have found a way to spray it. Very, very, thin coats and you have to experiment with the varnish/turpentine mix to get it right. You also have to try different air/mix settings and gun proximity to get it just right. It is very difficult to spray and you'll have to do a lot of tests to make sure you don't get it too thick or thin in application and coat thickness." in this article http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...77#post1289577
Last edited by Kennyz55; May-20-2014 at 6:05am. Reason: delete
Hardware store denatured alcohol.
John Hamlett
www.hamlettinstruments.com
John, I have a question on which solvent you use in relation to the kind of final finish. If your preference is for alcohol based dyes, then how would Shellac sealer affect the tint and colour if one was to use Shellac and French polish finish? If you finished with lacquer or varnish, would you go with a water-based Transtint sunburst?
Nic Gellie
I'm not good at FP, so I don't do it for full finishes, only for occasional touch-ups, therefore, I can't comment on what to do with dyes under a FP finish.
I've never used water soluble Transtints, only alcohol soluble. I seal with sprayed shellac, and follow the sealer with lacquer or varnish. I've used several different varnishes, but the prep is the same. I use Golden Grain alcohol (from the liquor store) in my shellac, rather than denatured.
John Hamlett
www.hamlettinstruments.com
Once Transtint dries, it's the same whether you used alcohol or water to dilute it. So, the choice of alcohol vs. water is purely one of which you prefer for application. They each have their pros and cons. Water raises the grain more and dries more slowly (the latter can be good for blending sunbursts). Alcohol tends to bite into the binding more, making it more difficult to scrape the dye off later.
If you're French polishing on top of Transtint, you need to spray a couple of coats of shellac first to seal it well, and then be careful when you begin French polishing not to disturb it.
Andrew Mowry
Mowry Stringed Instruments
http://mowrystrings.com
Also visit me on Facebook to see work in progress and other updates.
Thanks Andrew and John,
Very useful replies. Interesting about the alcohol causing the dye to blend into the binding more. Make sense. I might try on some scraps of timber first using the dyes diluted in water or alcohol and test the results.
BTW Andrew your article on binding an F5 mandolin in American Luthiery Magazine is excellent. Thanks for spending the time doing it.
Nic Gellie
Thanks very much, Nick!
Andrew Mowry
Mowry Stringed Instruments
http://mowrystrings.com
Also visit me on Facebook to see work in progress and other updates.
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