CA gel didn't hold fretboard binding

[HogTime]

I just tried using a CA gel (Loctite) to glue my celluloid fretboard binding and it didn't hold. I tried to glue just at the end of the "thumb" of the ebony fretboard first. Held it for 1 minute and it immediately loosened up when I released the pressure.

It this a materials incompatibility issue or should I not use the gel?

Thanks,

[amowry]

I use thin CA for fretboard binding, and it works very well. It seems to cure faster than the thicker stuff. You have to bend the binding perfectly so it makes full contact with the wood, but you can hold or tape the binding in place dry, and thin wick in a few drops of the CA to hold it. I find it much easier and less messy than putting thick CA on first and then putting the binding in place.

[thistle3585]

I've had a lot of trouble with Loctite brand ca glue. Specifically, it reacted with my lacquer and discolored. I use Duco glue on ally binding.

[Michael Cameron]

I was taught to use Duco on binding. Clamp,and let sit overnight. I used it on guitars. Never built a mandolin.

Re: CA glue. Getchoo some "accelerator" spray("NCF Quick"). Use sparingly. Don't breathe the vapors... cyanide. The accelerator is the bomba for freezing stuff in place. Fingers too.

[Gerard Dick]

Was it a fresh tube? The stuff has short shelf life after opening.

[HogTime]

Thanks for the tips. I just bought it, so I assume it was fresh.

I did find out that it quickly glues the binding to a piece of pine, so I think it didn't particularly like the ebony. Also it's very dry here today and I read it gets activated by moisture in the air or on the piece. Or maybe I should have shaken it first.

I got some regular (non gel) CA and will give that a try. I'm mainly trying to get the already bent binding glued around the curves a small section at a time with a quick drying glue and then use Duco on the edges, where tape will hold it in place OK.

Thanks,

[Desert Rose]

I havent used the Loctite brand but I know people who do with no problems

First as stated you must prebend the binding in all cases to conform to the shape, you cant get around this if a top quality job is wanted

secondly you ALWAYS tape the binding in place so it can sit for a couple hours. Any glue will soften and react with the binding, taping is again the way to do the best quality work. it will hold the binding in place and allow it to harden undisturbed

Mandolin fretboards and banjo fretboards with the rounded shapes are not ment for holding with your hands for a few seconds no matter what glue

I stopped using Duco glues years ago and have used nothing but superglue gel and have never had a single problem following the advice above

Scott

[Michael Lewis]

CA glues don't like acidic environments, so dust the ebony with some baking soda just before you apply the glue. Dust it on and blow it off, the little that is left is all you need.

Start with clean fresh surfaces

[Rob Grant]

Can plastic (celluloid binding) be properly glued with CA to anything? I avoid using CA when bonding plastics. I know CA can be used to glue ebony (timber) binding to any other wood, as that is what I use on my mandolins. I find that CA works best with porous materials. Many plastics are not porous.

[Rolfe]

Jenny and I use CA for all bindings, wood and celluloid, with no problem. For fingerboards and headstocks, we use the StewMac 20 (medium thick) finger-held in the curves and taped on the straightaways. Where celluloid bindings meet, we leave the joint just a tad proud and squish the two pieces together for an excellent joint. A few minutes later, after it has set, we go over all the seams with 10 (thin) to fill any gaps. On body binding, we use a thick (not gel) odor-free CA. I was sick for three days (double vision and respiratory difficulty) from binding six bodies with regular CA one afternoon. The odor-free is a different formulation that doesn't bother me. But the odor-free formulation cures softer and more flexible than regular CA---perfect for binding but not for other uses. Body binding is done a half mandolin at a time, taped and wrapped with bungee cord. Then the thin CA is used on all seams. We have had no loose bindings or problems using CA.

[HogTime]

Thanks for the additional input. Interesting to hear the different approaches and the different results with the same approach (YMMV at work).

I had better luck with the thin CA (Krazy Glue) gluing around the curves of the "thumb" and holding it by hand for one minute. However, when I did the same with the small "dip" on the other side, no dice. Tried 3 or 4 times and it never held. Put some Duco on and then pressed the dip against a vertical 1/2" dowel and clamped it overnight. Holding fine (for now).

I used Duco on the straight sections and clamped the fretboard sides against another long piece of wood vs. taping.

Onward and upward (or sideways at times),

[Big Joe]

CA has been a staple for us for many years. It does a great job especially on binding, but like all adhesives it must be applied to a properly prepared surface. Any surface with any adhesive can be a problem if not prepared properly. Especially when you are using an exotic wood like Ebony. We often take it for granted, but it does have some special issues related to binding to other materials. You must sand lightly the area to remove any residual oils present in the ebony and then it is not a bad idea to clean the surface with something to ensure it is clean. I would recommend alchohol, but if you are putting it on a finished instrument you have to be careful. If it is an unfinished area no problem. Once it is cleaned put the binding and adhesive on as soon as you can to keep oils in the wood from coming to the surface. This is the same problem one has with finishing exotic woods. If the oils come to the surface then the finish won't stick as it should. Hope this helps a bit.

[fiddledoc]

I've never found a hardware store CA that is useble for me. I only use ZAP these days. Some hobby shops have it, or it can be ordered online. Lots of thier accelerator, too.