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Thread: Finger plane design variables?

  1. #1

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    I am in the process of making patterns prior to casting a series of finger planes in bronze. Most of my experience has been using Ibex planes. I have not had the opportunity to use Laarman planes. The ones I am designing will have more features such as adjustable palm rests, and hopefully, more ergonomic grips. #Also I have not been happy with the throat dimensions of my Ibex planes. I welcome any input with regards to your collective finger plane experiences. One question I have is about plane iron angle. I speculate that the optimum iron angle for a plane used on coniferous wood is different from that of hardwoods.
    K4 mandcello
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  2. #2
    Registered User bennyb's Avatar
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    While you're waiting for more technical opinions, here's mine: I have the 12 mm ibex, I absolutely love it, performs very well-maybe a little bit of clogging-came sharp and honing occasionally brings it back to good performance. But, ergonomics are just plain bad, and while I've learned to relax as much as I can, it'll just never be a great tool until I modify it to reduce the thumb/forefinger grip.

    I look forward to hearing more about your venture.

    My best, bennyb

  3. #3
    Registered User sunburst's Avatar
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    Yep, the "ergonomic" thing is the worst feature of the Ibex planes, IMO. Something a little easier on the fingers would be great.
    As for the angle of the iron, you may be right that a steeper angle would be better for hard woods, but personally I would rather have one plane that will do both OK than have to buy and maintain separate planes optimized for soft and hard wood.

    Bennyb, for a remedy for clogging Ibex planes, look here.

  4. #4

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    I think they should be "pull". Something with a handle for one hand (wood?) and a pressure point for the palm over the blade. This way you can modify the cutting angle easily while cutting.. Not to mention, you'd use your biceps which have less of a tennis elbow tendency. I'd buy one, I don't have time to design one myself even if I have the equipment, hehe!

  5. #5

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    I'd also like to add "mass" to the list of desired characteristics. Nothing like pulling once, and cutting through all obstacles without hesitation. Perhaps a thicker than normal steel blade too, to take care of chatter. Essentially, just make it like Lie-Nielson would.

  6. #6

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    I am planning heavier mass planes. I am making the plane irons from salvaged blades from a 4 head sawmill planer. The blades are 1.75 inches long and about 2.5 times the thickness of the iron in my #2 ibex plane.
    K4 mandcello
    Purple “Hannah Montana” octave mandolin
    F2 mandolin

  7. #7
    I may be old but I'm ugly billhay4's Avatar
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    I'd like to see one that curves front to back only with a minimum of side to side curve, enough to reduce edge gouges but no more. I think I'd get better control of the cut this way.
    Bill
    IM(NS)HO

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