Glossy finish

[french guy]

The question is in the title.
As many builders I hate the finish process , and I want know your experience with tru-oil , is it possible to obtain a gloss finish with it ?
Thanks .

[Antlurz]

I've used it to finish some maple tomahawk handles. After it has some cure time, some fine steel wool brought them up to a nice semi-gloss, and I think they could likely be buffed, but thats only a guess.

I'd have to check the brand name, but the stuff I used was sold as gun stock finish.

Ron

[kestrel]

I use True Oil, and I rub down completely, between coats, with 0000 steel wool. After several coats, and a final rub-out with the steel wool, I use a couple of light coats of Johnson's paste wax (no silicone), and some vigorous buffing, and it shines like glass. Maybe not a traditional finish, but looks great, and is easy to maintain. I normally don't continue with the wax, because I love the results of the last steel wool rub.

Gene

[Rick Jones]

There are a signficant number of threads involving all aspects of Tru-Oil available in the library at MIMF.com. Would be worth taking a look over there. More information than you can shake a stick at - or, in this case, a rag.

[David Newton]

I did two mandolins with Tru-oil, did nothing between coats, maybe 320 just after the first coat to level the raised grain, rubbed on with a little cloth, about 10-12 coats. Let dry several days in the warm box, then fine-fine steel wool, then polish like McGuires #7. It will gloss up real nice, but it's not lacquer.

I never liked the feel of the neck with Tru-oil, so I FP'd over it.
Now I FP everything.

If you hate the finish process, you will probably like Tru-oil, but it has it's drawbacks.

[billhay4]

I have buffed it out with a wheel after a long drying time (a month or so). It takes a shine well, but better on maple than spruce.
Bill

[amowry]

I used Tru-Oil for a glossy finish on some of my early mandolins, but I found it's more difficult than an oil or spirit varnish, because it requires so many coats to get an acceptably level film. I didn't have a UV box, though, so I had to wait a while for it to cure. I know of some builders who have used it successfully on quite a few instruments, sometimes French polishing on top of it.

[David Newton]

I would worry about a french polish shellac finish over a Tru-oil finish as a matter of practice. To me, that is a hard finish over a soft finish, and cracking could occur. Is my thinking right? Or does the Tru-oil provide a resilent base that moves when the wood moves, cushioning the effect of the movement on the harder shellac?
In reality it probably doesn't really matter...

[oldwave maker]

heres tru-oil fp over shellac, glows, unlike the dipped in polyurethane look of many nitro shiny-mando-objects. Tom told me his Ellis' are tru-oil over oil varnish, they're the top of the mandofinish foodchain imo. Ya just wanna taste 'em!

[David Newton]

Bill, how did you do the image of an old man under that finish? Cool!

[billhay4]

He obviously Photoshopped that old man in. Bill told me he was only 26.
Bill

[Stephen Perry]

Tru oil doesn't have any resin content. Makes buildup difficult.

Given the thin nature of an FP layer or two, I can't see much chance of problems. And vice versa.

[Magnus Geijer]

These two, as well as my #1, are Tru-Oil only, and pretty glossy. No polish or fanciness, just a 400 wet sand between coats.



/Magnus

[french guy]

Hi all , thanks you for your replies , it will help me to go ahead with tru-oil .

[Philphool]

Good luck to you, Jean.
Are you coming across the pond to Union Grove this year?

Phil